I have 1 semi-auto, and 1 new bolt action in 308 Win. I use a RCBS SMALL BASE DIE for the brass I now have. Can I continue to use the short base for the bolt or should I buy a FL DIE. These loads are hunting loads.

You will be OK to continue to use your SB die set to load cartridges for use in both the semi-auto and the bolt action.

In fact I use a RCBS 270 SB die set with my Parker Hale Mauser actioned 270 Winchester bolt action rifle with no ill effects.

All the SB die set does is to resize the area just above the case web at the base of the cartridge to more like factory specification.

I highly recommend the use of a case gage when you set up your small base die. Picture attached. Older small base dies were made so you could push the shoulder back a significant distance. The RCBS X dies I purchased don't push the shoulder back as much as my older RCBS SB FL.

You can determine with this gage the rifle chamber headspace. You drop a fired case in the gage and measure below the No Go ledge.

Anyway, it is easy to just size to gage minimum and your ammunition will be within factory limits, and as long as your rifles properly headspace, you should not have problems.

I use SB dies for any caliber they come in. SB dies mean that my ammunition is interchange across a wide number of different rifles.

I've had a number of semi auto and pump rifles over the years. Never had to use a small base sizer die for any of them.

Thank You for the reply.I do use a Headspace gauge on all my brass for the 308 before reloading, just to be on the safe side. Thanks again!

If you read the description of the RCBS small base dies on Midway, they specific say DO NOT use a small base die for a bolt action rifle...

Also for a hunting round you shouldnt even consider anything but FL resizing. Your really gonna smack yourself one day when that trophy you shoot at and miss, and you quickly work the action for a follow up, only for it to jam up or bind.

In a perfect world you would dedicate separate brass to each rifle. That way in the event that your rifles have different size chambers, you are not overworking the brass from the one that has the larger chamber (probably the bolt) to fit in the smaller one while using the SB die. Dies are not prohibitively expensive. If you are not doing an awful lot of shooting with the bolt gun, you can certainly get by with only the SB die as long as your headspacing is correct.

quote:

Originally posted by BC NOCAL:
...I do use a Headspace gauge on all my brass for the 308 before reloading, just to be on the safe side. ...

Hey BC, Then I dislike telling you that you have totally wasted $$$ on the HeadSpace Gauge. It is as useful as a Primer Flipper - pretty much worthless.

You would have been better off spending the money on a FL Die Set and setting the FL Die to P-FLR the cases for the Bolt Action.

Using the Small Base Set in the Semi-Auto may or may not be necessary, just as craigster mentioned. One thing for sure though, by reducing the Case to the absolute Minimum Dimensions each time you fire them(with the SB Die) will significantly reduce the Case Life. Just like Breaking a piece of "Baling Wire" by bending it back and forth, the more you "squeeze" the Pressure Ring back(when it is not needed), fire, re-squeeze, fire, etc., the quicker you will get Insipient Case Head Separation.
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I'd recommend you:
1. Set the HeadSpace "Thingy" in a prominent position where you can see it and remember how much $$$money$$$ was totally wasted on it.
2. Buy a separate set of FL Dies and Shell Holder for the 308Win Bolt Action and set them to P-FLR.
3. Use the SmallBase Die Set with the Semi-Auto.
4. Keep the Cases segregated. The ones from the Semi-Auto are typically easy to identify by damage to the Rim from the Extractor. These will not last nearly as long as the Cases from the Bolt Action.

Best of luck to you.

quote:

One thing for sure though, by reducing the Case to the absolute Minimum Dimensions each time you fire them(with the SB Die) will significantly reduce the Case Life. Just like Breaking a piece of "Baling Wire" by bending it back and forth, the more you "squeeze" the Pressure Ring back(when it is not needed), fire, re-squeeze, fire, etc., the quicker you will get Insipient Case Head Separation.

Can't teach an old Trog new tricks.

I took one set of small based sized LC 64 cases 22 or 24 reloads through an M1a. Cases were sized to gage minimum. The last I fired them was during Rattle Battle at Camp Perry. I picked up as many as I could before we advanced to the next firing line.

I never had a case head separation.

I sectioned cases that had neck splits or body splits. No evidence of case head separations.

I shoot small based sized brass in all of my rifles. Function is far more important to me than case life, and yet, I am getting outstanding case life.

Thanks to everyone for the info. Since the bolt is a new Sako, I think keeping the brass separate, and working P-FL with new FL dies will be a good way to go.

I suspect that you could use a standard FL die in both rifles without noticing the difference. You will never know unless you try and for me it is interesting to try everything a few times.