I am about to start reloading the .375 H&H using Sierra bullets (300 gr SBTGK ,which has no cannelure); my rifle is a Remington Model 700 Custom KS Mountain Rifle (in which the significant recoil this cartridge generates is somehow weaker than in other models) - and as I have heard that cartridges with hard recoil should be crimped, I need some advice ...

Is it so that hard recoiled cartridges should be crimped? what about my particular case ?

Should crimping be avoided in bullets with no cannelure ? Or is it the "taper crimp" an alternative in such cases?

I have heard very good comments about the lee factory crimp performance and that bullets need not to have cannelure in order to be crimped with this die ... any comments about these statements? is this die a "taper crimp" type? Any recommendation about its use?

Thank you all in advance for the answers I might have !!

You don't need to crimp that 375 H&H, I wouldn't use the LEE crimp die either, just seat the bullet and be done with it, the only cartridges you need to crimp are 44mags and other such rounds used in revolvers when using a heavy load. Jay

I use the Lee factory crimp in most of my reloads, with the 375H&H as Jay said it is not realy needed as it is not a big kicker, unless it's a light weight rifle. But I have found with a uniform crimp you will usually get a more accurate or consistent regular loads, yes I crimp my 375H&H on projies with or without the cannelure, I have been reloading for over 30yrs and have enjoyed my hobbie and maybe I have learnt a thing or two but I'm always open for new info and techniques, good luck and enjoy yourself reloading for that nice 375H&H you have....Les

I crimp all my 375 loads with the factory crimp die. It's been my experience that anything from a .257 roberts and up will set the bullet back in the case if it's not crimped and the cartridge is left in the magazine through 3-4 firings. I once had 7mm stw bullet pushed completely inside the case after the round was left in the magazine through 8 or so firings. If it'll happen with a 7mm stw imagine what it'll do with a .375.

I do not know if you "need" to crimp. that seems like a highly debated topic. I do crimp my 375 H&H handloads.
Load some with out the crimp and see how they do. If you think a crimp die would improve things buy one and use it or borrow one and use it.
Find out for yourself what You and your rifle "need" by experimenting. After all that is one of the reasons we reload isn't it?

Good luck in your load development.
I have had great results with R15 and the 300 grain hornady pill and the lee factory crimp.

David

IF it doesn't have a cannelure, you CAN'T crimp it unless it is a lead bullet! To try will collapse your case shoulder! I have never crimped .375 H&H ammo, you don't need to! If you find your bullets moving (mine never have) use a smaller expander button!

I generally select powders that will give you close to 100% or better loading density, so there's no room for the bullet to go into the case, even if it wanted to!

[ 09-09-2003, 15:31: Message edited by: eldeguello ]

You can crimp any bullet with the Lee Factory Crimp die.

I've heard of people having problems with bullets coming out (as in the revolver situation) or getting compacted deeper into the case.

I tested uncrimped maximum loads in my .338 Win. Mag. and the bullet pressed deeper into the case, but only about .010". It couldn't go much farther due to the already-compressed powder charge.

Someone ran Quickload for me and found it would only cause something like a 3 fps difference.

Solution: Lee Factory Crimp Die Cost: About $10 US. Works with or without cannelured bullets. Takes about 60 seconds to set up and adjust. Best of all...IT WORKS!

John Frazer is correct. I've used the Lee Factory Crimp (collet) die for my .375 H & H and it completely solved my problem in which Barnes X bullets (seated long -- not even close to the cannelure in a LONG action) were being driven in by recoil.

Yes, I know I could polish the expander button down to get a tighter fit, but that would be counterproductive for loading my cast bullets. Cast bullets don't like to have lead shaved from them when being seated in undersized necks!

The Lee collet crimping die let me tightly squeeze the case neck around the bullet for a good tight fit, and not have necks so small that they shave lead from cast bullets.

Furthermore, the Barnes X bullets were not deformed by this (there was no cannelure formed), but the bullets no longer got driven in the case by recoil.

Lee told me (via email) that this die would work perfectly with even solid copper bullets lacking a cannulure (or not seated to one). They were right.

My accuracy remained the same (MOA).

Get the Lee Factory crimp die -- it really works well and it is cheap!

jpb