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Good. If the discussion can remain civil, perhaps I can spot something that I'm unaware of(aka learn something new) as you all procede. As well as I can remember, they were able to "discuss" the issues very well together. I seem to remember tnekkcc mentioning in a recent post that he misses Ass Clown's input - me too. | |||
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Thanks for that link SR. I have read through it a couple of times now and need to study it more but what I got out of it is that a low Friction Coefficient can slightly increase bolt thrust and slightly decrease thinning at the web that causes case head separations. But that like dj said my Flitzing will not lower the FC enough to get anywhere near the dangerous levels. Certainly using Scotchbrite would create the opposite effect and makes for a consistant but high FC surface. Believe me you can feel the difference when chambering and extracting though and the rough finish picks up everything from oil on your fingers to dust in the air. In a DGR situation the Flitzing would be beneficial. Flitzing is not as bad as oiling IMO. Wonder if Scotchbrite and then Flitz? ____________________________________ There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice. - Mark Twain | Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others. ___________________________________ | |||
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Woods, with the low SD's you were getting I don't know that I'd change a thing. If it's working well you don't want to keep "fixing" things until they are broken! If I were you I'd keep doing things the same way and maybe watch for a couple things. One watch for brass deterioration, some polishes have chemicals in them that long term will degrade brass. I doubt Flitz has them in it but I would still check for it. And I'd watch for bolt lug wear just to make sure I'm not getting too much bolt thrust- again I doubt this is happening with your prep just something to watch for. You could test for bolt thrust by shooting the same load in an unpolished case and your polished ones. If the bolt lift is harder with the polished cases it probably is because of increased bolt thrust. You'd have to have a pretty large difference to notice it this way and I seriously doubt there would be any difference but it might give you peace of mind just to check it. In this discussion I don't think we've mentioned yet the other reason that Oiled rounds is a bad idea. It's the same reason that Machine Guns that used Oiled rounds were failures in battle. The reason is that oiled rounds pick up sand and grit and can pretty quickly jam up your rifle. The MG's like the Italian Breda's started jamming up quickly in the desert because of sand sticking to the rounds and gumming up the works. It probably wouldn't be as big a problem with a hunting rifle but if something did happen it would probably be at the worst time, like on a hot windy day with a Cape Buffalo charging at you or something. We just don't need lubed rounds for any practical reason other than maybe fireforming, why introduce an unnecessary variable that can cause all sorts of problems?......................................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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1. This discussion has proved that shooting a round with small amounts of oil on the case does not blow up rifles. 2. No one ever advocated taking either a machine gun or a hunting rifle into dusty condition with oiled rounds. 3. No one ever advocated hunting with oiled rounds 4. Varmint Al's data shows that bolt thrust is increased slightly but it also reduces stretching of brass. Varmint Al's data primarily discusses surface finish of chambers but it also touches upon very low coefficients of friction consistent with smooth chambers and oiled brass. 5. In order to make some machine guns operate more reliably the designers have added design features like fluted chambers and oilers trying to ease extraction of fired rounds. My experience is that slightly oiled cases and highly polished chambers can be beneficial for improving fire forming, prevention of case thinning at the junction of the solid head and the case body. Prevention of thinning can improve the life of cases and prevent case head separations. | |||
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....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Ok... AR-15 isn't a good example, semi-auto does work on the principal of the case expanding to hold it in the chamber before you bullet leaves. mini 14 maybe? not sure if thats blow back or not... and your little comment about above my pay grade..... AHAHAHAHAHAHA Your out of your mind.... Why bring income into this.... unless your in some top 5% of the USA's pay grades... Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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You're obviously overpaid since you don't understand the meaning of "over my/your paygrade". Nope no semi-auto I know of uses case wall friction as part of the operating mechanism. You haven't been reading much up there in the corn vortex eh ...?? Back to Toys-R-Us for you Windy!! | |||
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Windtech, don't let the snide jerks keep you from posting, you've made some good points. Bolt lugs are one of the first things to break on a AR-15. The Military recommends a 7500 rd replacement cycle for Bolts, lubed rounds would cause an even more accellerated failure rate................................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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No one's gonna take you two seriously when you keep making fools of yourselves with your unsubstantiated theory. Find us a white paper from a reputable source (preferably several) and you won't look so ridiculous. By your own admissions here neither of you understand how your personal firearms function. You'd think a couple guys purveying some advanced theory in mechanics would have disassembled their personal firearms at least once ...?? For Cleaning ...?? If you had you'd have noticed that your AR-15 and yor Mini-14 are gas guns. No gas - no open. Case friction doesn't have anything to do with their operation. Unless of course you have too much friction and then you might have a problem with extraction. Do you understand what that means? Do you know what "blowback" means? Do you understand how to calculate radial stress? Bolt thrust? Been amusing guys but you've become tiresome now. When you get your data together let us know. Lots of important people are interested in alternative physics ... | |||
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....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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ok... lets go back to the 10/22 Macifej, Find me a paper or anything you can find that claims djpaintles and I are wrong... What you will find is exactly what we are telling you...if it wasn't the case that the brass expands and grips the chamber until pressure is lost and the brass constricts to then give it's equal and opposite reaction of opening the bolt... I told you to forget AR-15 and I wasn't sure about the mini14... lets go back to a 10/22 for simplicity... now www.volquartsen.com is from Iowa... they make the most accurate 10/22... maybe they could explain... Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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Windtech, the 10/22 and AR-15/Mini-14's operate differently. 10/22's are a simple blow-back action where the case is held in by the weight of the bolt and the spring. AR-15's and Mini-14's have a locked breech that is unlocked by using propellant vented through a hole in the barrel. The issue is that oiled chambers increase the backthrust of the case on the bolt causing exteme wear. The ridiculous part of the arguement is when Macifej says we need to produce "white papers" or the like to prove what we are talking about. All anyone has to do is read any loading manual or Firearms manual to be told to make sure that your chamber is clear of excessive oil etc.. Macifej is the one trying to argue a position that is opposite of std. practice not us............................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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yea... I've been saying forget ar15 and mini 14 ... but 10/22 works because of the friction in the chamber... now you could oil your chamber and add a stiffer spring sure but that's dumb.... ok... I'm done with this topic... next.... Thanks DJ Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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No the Japanese already proved this does not break a firearm with full power loads. The Italians proved it does not break a firearm with full power loads. With a bolt gun using fully fire formed cases and a smooth chamber there is no point in oiling a cartridge simply because it takes time. 1. Ease of extraction is not required with a smooth chamber. 2. The case is already fire formed so it will not stretch. Your basis for your argument is like the Pope discussing sex. You have no experience to base your argument upon. | |||
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A few links to verify my points: The Breda machine gun: "The Breda 30 is widely regarded as a poor weapon. It had fragile clips, a slow rate of fire, used the underpowered 6.5x52mm cartridge and was prone to jamming." from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breda_30 http://www.chuckhawks.com/7-7mmArisaka.htm http://www.chuckhawks.com/6-5x50.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6...m_Mannlicher-Carcano Also you'll see something similar in most gun manual. Here's some from my Sig 556 manual, page 24: (red color added by dj for emphasis.) You can go to: http://gunmanuals.net/ and read however many gun manuals you wish and you will likely find similar statements in most of them. Simply put YOU ARE WRONG, Dozens of MANUFACTURERS are CORRECT. Read as many manuals as you need to convince yourself. Read any reloading manual. I won't recommend that you lube up any maximum loads and see that it will make your bolt lift stiffer as it can be dangerous, I think that you are much better off taking the advice of Almost every gun manufacturer and reloading manual. You don't have to beleive a word I say, do a little research it's easy to find dozens of examples to prove my point...................................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Your original point was the gun will blow up if fired with oiled rounds. They don't blow up. Machine guns were designed with oilers. They did not blow up. Maybe not the best designs for sandy conditions but they didn't blow up. Empahsis: THEY DIDN'T BLOW UP AS YOU CLAIM. I am not repeating a completely false statement. You have no experience with OILED rounds or you would offer proof to the contrary. All you said is you had bullet lube on the cases. Not the same thing. I am sure your extraction issue was caused by the goo and not because it was over lubricated. This tells me you are a careless reloader. Go back and read Varmint Al's data and quote it completely and accurately. He mentions it is dangerous only at coefficient's of friction that are impossible to attain. Now you are dodging citing more modern cartridges. Show me where a gun has blown up due to oil on the cartridge case. You won't and you can't because it hasn't happened. | |||
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....It's your gun... It's your oil.... It's your lugs..... Take care.... THE END! Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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byeeeeee | |||
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Sweet Dreams, don't let the bed bugs bite SR4759! Oh and by the way... the Freemason's know who killed JFK.. http://web.mit.edu/dryfoo/Masonry/how-to.html Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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Quote from the Ruger Mini-14 owners manual Page 24: "Firing a rifle with OIL, grease, or any other material even partially obstructing the the bore may result in damage to the rifle and serious injury to the shooter and those nearby. Do not spray or apply lubricants directly on ammuntion. ..................................IMPROPER LUBRICATION DESTROYS GUNS" http://gunmanuals.net/Manuals/ruger_mini14.pdf .....here they are primarily concerned with the oil becoming a bore obstruction but since oil is fluid any oil in the chamber can easily run into the bore and become an obstruction. Once again "IMPROPER LUBRICATION DESTROYS GUNS", ---this is from a major manufacturer not just me. From the Springfield Armory M-1A owners manual: page 8 "12. Do not oil cartridges, and be sure to wipe the chamber clean of any oil or preservative before commencing to shoot. Oil actually interferes with the friction between cartridge case and chamber wall that is necessary for safe functioning, and subjects the firearm to stress similar to that imposed by excessive pressure" "13. Use lubricants sparingly on the moving parts of your firearm. Avoid excessive spraying of any aerosol gun care product, especially where it may get on ammunition. All lubricants, and aerosol spray lubricants in particular, can penetrate cartridge primers and cause misfires. Some highly penetrative lubricants can also migrate inside cartridge cases and cause deterioration of the propellant powder, and on firing the powder may not ignite. If only the primer ignites there is danger that the bullet may become lodged in the barrel." Page 23 ".......................Do not oil chamber as chamber was designed to operate dry." http://gunmanuals.net/Manuals/springfield_m1a.pdf This could go on and on, almost all of the manuals tell you to be sure and clean the chamber and barrel of oil before firing. Having oil on the ammuntion not only risks the oil seeping into the primer or powder creating the possibility of a misfire and stuck bullet but excess oil also can be come an extremely hazardous bore obstuction that can result in damage to the firearm and injury to the shooter and those around you - Note: this is according to Ruger and dozens of other manufacturers not just me. Oiling Ammunition is cautioned against by virtually every firearms manufacturer, many of them specifically mention that it might cause your gun "to blow up". You can stick you head in the sand and not read any of the incontravertable evidence I've offered, but you are simply wrong. There might be certain rare instances were low pressure loads and fireforming might be risked without extreme danger but in general OILING Ammunition is DANGEROUS and STUPID. You are risking FOULED PRIMERS and/or POWDER, BORE OBSTRUCTIONS and other EXTREMELY DANGEROUS problems that can be SIMPLY AVOIDED by NOT OILING ROUNDS!!!!!!! It's obvious that there a couple posters here that are too hard-headed to realize how dangerous some of their reloading practices are, hopefully they won't ruin their firearms, injure themselves and others around them by doing such unnecessary and dangerous practices such as oiling rounds. Beginning and other sane reloaders I truly hope that you will take the time to read your owners manuals, reloading manuals and other good resources and take their advice to NOT OIL AMMUNITION. Don't just take my word for it, read the advice of every manufacturer and reloading manual and keep you ammunition and chambers clean and dry for safety's sake. SR4759, I realize that it's difficult for you to change a long held opinion but I would challenge you to find a single manufacturer that recommend you oil your ammunition. You can find dozens and dozens of them that specifically tell you not too - just look through the www.gunmanuals.net site, but you aren't going to be able to find a single one that says it's OK. THIS SHOULD BE TELLING YOU SOMETHING..................................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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There is a certain amount of oil or case lube left on the outside of the case if you are not neck sizing. It is probably not enough to cause problems but Flitz cleans it off real well. So to summarize
Oh, one last thing
____________________________________ There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice. - Mark Twain | Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others. ___________________________________ | |||
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All this time I thought my Mini-14 and M1A were well designed and safe rifles, Guess I'll be junking those turds ASAP!! This thread is to Product Liability Law Firms what Fresh Blueberries are to bears. They obviously have some stupid customers, stupid designers, or stupid counsel to print something like that. I'm still working on training the oil in my weapons to "Stay" on command so I don't "DESTROY MY GUNS" ... | |||
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Macifej, this is something that I know nothing about. I've seen those who believe that oil increases bolt thrust put their point, if in a rather basic form, but apart from personal slurs I haven't seen your side of the case presented. Now, I don't have an opinion on this matter as I have no information which might allow me to formulate a position so I would be grateful if you could present your side of the case to allow me to see what the science indicates. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, I'm merely trying to gather enough info to formulate a view on this matter. | |||
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Quote from the Ruger Mini-14 owners manual Page 24: "Firing a rifle with OIL, grease, or any other material even partially obstructing the the bore may result in damage to the rifle and serious injury to the shooter and those nearby. Do not spray or apply lubricants directly on ammuntion. ..................................IMPROPER LUBRICATION DESTROYS GUNS" http://gunmanuals.net/Manuals/ruger_mini14.pdf .....here they are primarily concerned with the oil becoming a bore obstruction but since oil is fluid any oil in the chamber can easily run into the bore and become an obstruction. Once again "IMPROPER LUBRICATION DESTROYS GUNS", ---this is from a major manufacturer not just me. From the Springfield Armory M-1A owners manual: page 8 "12. Do not oil cartridges, and be sure to wipe the chamber clean of any oil or preservative before commencing to shoot. Oil actually interferes with the friction between cartridge case and chamber wall that is necessary for safe functioning, and subjects the firearm to stress similar to that imposed by excessive pressure" "13. Use lubricants sparingly on the moving parts of your firearm. Avoid excessive spraying of any aerosol gun care product, especially where it may get on ammunition. All lubricants, and aerosol spray lubricants in particular, can penetrate cartridge primers and cause misfires. Some highly penetrative lubricants can also migrate inside cartridge cases and cause deterioration of the propellant powder, and on firing the powder may not ignite. If only the primer ignites there is danger that the bullet may become lodged in the barrel." Page 23 ".......................Do not oil chamber as chamber was designed to operate dry." http://gunmanuals.net/Manuals/springfield_m1a.pdf This could go on and on, almost all of the manuals tell you to be sure and clean the chamber and barrel of oil before firing. Having oil on the ammuntion not only risks the oil seeping into the primer or powder creating the possibility of a misfire and stuck bullet but excess oil also can be come an extremely hazardous bore obstuction that can result in damage to the firearm and injury to the shooter and those around you - Note: this is according to Ruger and dozens of other manufacturers not just me. Oiling Ammunition is cautioned against by virtually every firearms manufacturer, many of them specifically mention that it might cause your gun "to blow up". You can stick you head in the sand and not read any of the incontravertable evidence I've offered, but you are simply wrong. There might be certain rare instances were low pressure loads and fireforming might be risked without extreme danger but in general OILING Ammunition is DANGEROUS and STUPID. You are risking FOULED PRIMERS and/or POWDER, BORE OBSTRUCTIONS and other EXTREMELY DANGEROUS problems that can be SIMPLY AVOIDED by NOT OILING ROUNDS!!!!!!! It's obvious that there a couple posters here that are too hard-headed to realize how dangerous some of their reloading practices are, hopefully they won't ruin their firearms, injure themselves and others around them by doing such unnecessary and dangerous practices such as oiling rounds. Beginning and other sane reloaders I truly hope that you will take the time to read your owners manuals, reloading manuals and other good resources and take their advice to NOT OIL AMMUNITION. Don't just take my word for it, read the advice of every manufacturer and reloading manual and keep you ammunition and chambers clean and dry for safety's sake. SR4759, I realize that it's difficult for you to change a long held opinion but I would challenge you to find a single manufacturer that recommend you oil your ammunition. You can find dozens and dozens of them that specifically tell you not too - just look through the www.gunmanuals.net site, but you aren't going to be able to find a single one that says it's OK. THIS SHOULD BE TELLING YOU SOMETHING..................................DJ[/Q UOTE] XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX All you are doing is twisting the issue to suit your view without any personal experience. Your arguments seem to be getting more silly with each post. Please understand that if a cartridge is oiled it does not generate more pressure. Therefore it will not blow up a well made gun. This has been demonstrated as a design feature on machine guns. You attempted to discredit this using the dust collection issue which is not germane. You have not intentionally oiled cartridges nor you do not appear aware of the method or manner of using oiled cartridges. I will allow you to remain ignorant on that point. BTW I don't think you will find a single firearms manufacturer that endorses reloaded ammo either. So why don't you the following. Read all of the manufacturers warnings against use of reloaded ammo and the fact that their warranties are voided by the practice. Once you follow their instructions like a good little boy and quit reloading you will no longer need to post on this forum. As long as you post stupid stuff like a gun will blow up over a little oil I am going to respond. Never mind that you do not seem to be able to read and comprehend the value of the information on Varmint Al's web site. After all it is only engineering science and it provides a very good explanation of the forces involved at various levels of mU. I am pretty sure before this thread you did not know that information existed. I would say for you, that you should not own any oil for it obviously represents an irrational hazard to you. You apparently use oil in a very different fashion than most of us. Be sure to avoid both oil and reloads and you will be perfectly safe. But then again maybe you should avoid factory ammo too. You might get a defective round that could damage your guns or injure your person. And while you are at it why not just sell your firearms and trash any sharp objects around your house so you will be less likely to injure your self or someone else. | |||
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Well, I have no dog in this particular fight, so to speak, but I have never worried about it and never had any adverse effects. Let me elaborate....When I put a rifle, or pistol for that matter, away after a shooting session, I clean it and run a patch of Break Free through it without the bore guide in it. I do it to protect the bore and chamber from any rust or other nasties. Now when I get it out to shoot it again, I TRY to remember to run a dry patch down the barrel before I shoot it. Don't always remember, or get to. I do NOT take any special care to make sure the chamber is especially dry or free of Break Free, I just run a patch down. If it dries the chamber, fine, if not, that is fine too. After tens of thousands of rounds through all of my barrels, some of which I have had to have re-barreled a couple of times, I have seen no ill effects. The smiths who do the re-barrel check for lug issues every time I send them back and there have been zero issues, and the accuracy is fine as well. Maybe I've been lucky and maybe I have never left enough lube in the chamber to be an issue, but from my experience, which does NOT include oiling my ammo, to most reloaders it is a non-issue. I do not polish with Flitz either, but I may try it. Botton line,for me, is that I just don't think it is a big enough issue to get anyone's panties in a twist about. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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I thought you had already left this thread. Have any data to support your point? I have oiled and fired a lot of rounds in numerous rifles and never had a single problem. On top of that it improves the case life and fire forming of the cases. So does having the chamber polished very smooth. So do you disagree with not polishing the chamber? The facts are there are no credible reports of rifle blown up due to oiled cases. There is no way that oiling the case increases the chamber pressure. | |||
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Do you make this stuff up as you go ...?? | |||
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So tell me how do you justify reloading at all if you don't know the pressures your loads are developing. Where did you get the 15% reduced life of a bolt? According to you I should have broken a half dozne bolts years ago. Please explain the physics that causes a significant increase in bolt load. Then go look at VarmintAls physics. If the case is fully fire formed it is against the bolt face when the round is fired. The case has no where to go nor does it move back under firing pressures. If it can't move backward then grabbing the chamber does no good. You have just repeated the same old muck passed around the internet. Most of my rifles are .473 standard head versions. The same actions are used for both H&H belted magnums and Ultra Mags. So you tell me how it is going to cause a problem? These actions are way stronger than the loads produced by a .473 case head. My old .222 uses the same action. Tell me how an action rated for an ultra mag is going to have a problem with an oiled .222? | |||
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I can't help ignorance... You keep putting my name in the place of somebody else as well... putting words in my mouth... Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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In Summary: Wood's summary says it pretty well but: -Use of oiled rounds presents potential hazards. 1. It can foul primers and powder potentially resulting in a stuck bullet and/or hazardous bore obstuction. 2. Oil flowing into the bore from an oiled chamber can result in a potential bore obstuction that can result in serious damage and/or injury to yourself and those around you. 3. Oiled rounds increase bolt thrust and can result in firearms damage and/or injury similar to those from excess pressure. - Virtaully every firearms manufacturer instucts you to clean the chamber and bore of excess oil before shooting. - Machine guns that did use oil rounds used low pressure rounds and all were failures on the battlefield. Al's Varminting site does mention the use of oil to facilitate better case forming. However he mentions that very low friction could be dangerous and in red letters states "* Note: I am not suggesting using lubricant on ammunition brass.", people are going to read that as they want too but in the end even the site seeming to endorse oiling ammuntion disclaims recommending it. IMO the use of Oiled rounds can be a dangerous and any potential benefits of "better case forming" is nowhere near worth the potential hazards. For fireforming I think instead of oiling ammunition I'll make a false shoulder for good headspacing instead of risking all the potential hazards of oiled ammunition. Note: there is of course more data available. I tried to present easily verifyable references and resources that anyone here can double-check. I would encourage all reloaders to check these and as many other trustable and verifyable sources to form their own opinions. Simply put, flitz makes nice pretty brass, oiling ammo is dangerous....................................................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Actually that is your feet in your mouth. | |||
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You are still offering opinions about something you know nothing about. How do you know that you are not exceeding the design limits of your rifles when you reload for them? You don't. Note VarmitAl's disclaimer is used at a Mu that is impossible to attain. | |||
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....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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It is pretty easy to tell you level of development. You don't have any original thoughts about anything. Trying to pass off a chronograph as a pressure measuring tool is the mistake of a newbie. | |||
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I really think that your arguements would be more persuasive if they were backed by verifiable references than by personal insults. I would again state that readers of these posts would be best served by checking some of the links posted and finding more data themselves than by just name calling. I did start another post on using a chronograph as a guide to pressure. I would invite everyone reading this to check it out and hopefully make some well thought out responses that we can all learn from .......................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Poor baby, My argument was backed by VarmintAl's engineering. That you chose the Bill Clinton school of interpretation proves your lack of honesty. Tell me how many oiled cases you have actually tried? Got any real DATA. Data not owner's manuals quotes. Those same owners manuals do not sanction reloading either. How do you continue to condemn one practice without condemning the other if you are referencing owners manuals? | |||
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In the end oiling rounds is just one of those things that too many bad things can happen while doing. I don't feel the small benefits you've observed justify the large amount of risk..................................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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I couldn't of said it better! I hope this brings a nice end to this thread! Cooper .223 - Burris 8-32x50 JR Custom AR-15 - Burris 8-32x50 Mil-dot | |||
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