THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM FORUMS

Page 1 2 

Moderators: Mark
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
lubricant poll
 Login/Join
 
one of us
posted Hide Post
When I process several hundred cases like I do when I load for HP matches I use the Dillon spray lube. Its a lanolin base lube with an alcohol carrier best I can tell...
When I just load a few shells...say batches of twenty or thirty I use the Imperial wax...a little dab will do ya!
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 25 February 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Imperial sizing wax is good! But if I have a heavy-duty case forming operation to do, I use STOS, made by Ponsness Warren. It is like a light grease, and works superbly! A very little goes a looooonnnnnggggg way! Regards, Eagleye. [Smile]
 
Posts: 113 | Location: B.C., Canada | Registered: 18 August 2002Reply With Quote
<Kentucky Fisherman>
posted
I used One Shot for years and seldom had a problem with it. Bought some Imperial a year or two ago and that's all I've used since. I still like the One Shot OK, but give the edge to Imperial. One thing I've found is that with Imperial you don't have to lube every case, just every other or every third works fine.
 
Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of Dino32HR
posted Hide Post
I use powdered graphite when neck-sizing. Dumped some small lead shot in a tiny, sealable Tupperware-like cup, added graphite to cover. Just dip and twist the case. Done. No case cleaning required after either. I bought some powdered mica as well, but haven't tried it yet.

I glued a magnet to the bottom of the cup to stabilize it and then stick it on the base of my Lyman T-Mag right next to the ram when I'm lubing. Close, convenient and it keeps the graphite in one area.

Lee lube for full-case sizing. Dilute it with water (50%) and spray it on.

I'm impressed by the support for the Imperial Wax. May just pick me up some of that !

I imagine it is critical that the wax and those that use mink oil have to clean the outside of the cases very well so that the case can "grab" the sides of the chamber when fired, no? (unless of course you are fire-forming the brass) I would think wax and mink oil would be more difficult to remove than some of the water-based lubes???
 
Posts: 243 | Location: Northeast OH | Registered: 03 January 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of D Humbarger
posted Hide Post
Polymer 400
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
I went from the RCBS lube to Imperial just last year and like the Imperial much better. It's easier to work with and less messy.
 
Posts: 445 | Location: Connellsville, PA | Registered: 25 April 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of Russell E. Taylor
posted Hide Post
I use the Dillon "squirt spray" and then spray my dies down, afterwards, with the cheapest brake cleaner I can find at Wal-Mart. No muss, no fuss. As for procedure, I place a loading block on top of the cases (which are also in a loading block) so I don't get any lube inside the case mouths (some prefer to, I prefer NOT to). I spray the heck out of them from every "open" angle, then size. Then I toss the loaded rounds into the tumbler for a couple of minutes, just long enough to remove the lube from the rounds. You'll hear all kinds of "you're screwing with the burn rate of the powder by tumbling loaded rounds" horror stories, so you can do the same thing or not... I don't care. It works for me and that's all I care about.

If I'm just sizing the necks, I use molybdenum disulfide. I replaced the mica I used to use with Midway's little "blue box with neck brushes" outfit. I'll never go back to mica, now.

I never size dirty brass. I always clean my dies after using them. I make sure I keep my equipment in a dehumidified environment.

Russ
 
Posts: 2982 | Location: Silvis, IL | Registered: 12 May 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Imperial
 
Posts: 373 | Location: USA | Registered: 05 December 2000Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Imperial wax on the outside of the neck.

RCBS glyserine on the inside of the neck.

The gun is lubricated with motor oil.
 
Posts: 2249 | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
I only used RCBS lubricant so far. Water soluble. I have no complaints. As I have two of these I think I won�t try anything else for long.

I like my carbide dies :-)))

Hermann
 
Posts: 828 | Location: Europe | Registered: 13 June 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by PC:
RCBS stuff and pad that came with the kit.

Ditto,

H. C.
 
Posts: 3691 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 23 May 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Coach Hunt:
Graphite is mostly carbon, which is turned into diamonds (the hardest substance on Earth) by heat and pressure...
Coach

Actually, you need pressures of 1,000,000 p.s.i. and temperatures of 2,000 degrees Celcius (about 3600 F) for that conversion. You also need a nickel catalyst to turn the graphite into diamond at any significant rate. Your dad wasn't making any diamonds in any rifle. I haven't heard that graphite is a wonderful firearms lubricant nonetheless.

H. C.
 
Posts: 3691 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 23 May 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of Russell E. Taylor
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Coach Hunt:
He now uses mica the same way he used graphite. Anyone have opinions about this technique???

Yes. If you ever get him to try molybdenum disulfide, he'll pitch the mica in the trash.
 
Posts: 2982 | Location: Silvis, IL | Registered: 12 May 2001Reply With Quote
<Don Martin29>
posted
I worked in a large deep draw house and they use a commercial deep draw lubricant! What a surprise!

Now I sell lubricants and I find that a #00 EP grease works well and is easy to wipe off. But maybe Imperial or RCBS's product is even better. I have not tried them.

On neck sizing. I lube the inside of each case with this grease using a Q tip. This takes quite a bit of time including the double wipe with a rag to get it out afterwards.

The thing on lube is to use just the right amount. This is not easy but if you don't do it evenly you will not have full film lubrication and that can pull the brass to one side. You want things to be uniform.
 
Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Dillon Spray lube for me. Fast, easy , inexpensive and I haven't had any case damaging issues as of yet, but I've only loaded about 200 rounds of .308.
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Long Beach | Registered: 25 June 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
The hands down best case lube I ever used was a a 4 oz jar of the stinky brown ANHYDROUS LANOLIN. The pure stuff from sheep. I got the idea from Corbin Bullet Swagging. I figured anything that could stand up to bullet swagging would damn sure work as a case lube. It did.
Apply this stuff to a case and your brass sized like it wasn't there.

A neat benefit of this stuff was the more I reloaded, the softer my hands got. [Big Grin] This is the PURE stuff they put a drop of in every gallon of "lanolin hand lotion." I would still use it if I could find anymore.

Today I use the spray-on instant lube. It's FAST and nothing could be easier. And the "wipe-off" is the easiest of anything. Those who don't like it aren't applying it correctly. Like most things, there's a right and wrong way.
It's easy to get too much of it. I'm very sparing with the stuff when spraying and after the first case or two...if they aren't lubed enough I give the rest of the cases another little shot. Better to use too little than too much. And you should also do like the directions state and let the brass sit for a minute or two before sizing. Give the stuff a chance to spread out or whatever it does.

Only thing I don't like about the instant lube is the "toxic" little smell and feel of it. It may be harmless as can be, but it makes me wonder. [Confused]
 
Posts: 19677 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Imperial, Hornady 1 Shot, Dillon Spray lube, depending on what I'm working with. Ran out of lubes one time, and used synthetic engine oil, REALLY worked well, but cleanup was a little messier. - Dan
 
Posts: 5285 | Location: Alberta | Registered: 05 October 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Howdy,

What an interesting accumulation of knowledge and techniques. I didn't realize there were so many different things being used, and just why some things worked!!!

Thanks for ALL the responses folks.

Good shooting and good luck.

Coach
 
Posts: 114 | Location: near Abilene, Texas | Registered: 04 September 2002Reply With Quote
<bigbelly>
posted
I also use RCNS case lube,then powdered moly in steel shot for the case necks.never any problems,except the ol` lady expects me to wash my hands once in a while now.That moly is hell on all it contacts.
 
Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Well I tried something today just for the heck of it. I rubbed Natural lube 1000 on some cases and resized about fifty cases. Everything went pretty smoothly. Guess just about anything will work.
 
Posts: 65 | Location: Upstate New York | Registered: 06 October 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of bowhuntrrl
posted Hide Post
I've been loading for 30+ years and have used many different. I never liked the sticky RCBS lube. For many years I've used moly beads when neck sizing. I've also used WD40, and a Dupont spray product with Teflon. I usually spray on my fingers and "massage" the cases. I use the Lee lube for inside the case necks when I full length size. I should note that I always tumble my cases after sizing.

bowhuntr [Wink]
 
Posts: 931 | Location: Somewhere....... | Registered: 07 October 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Any kind of motor oil, non-detergent preferably. I happened to have a quart of Mobil AV-1 Synthetic Aviation oil on hand when it was pulled from the market (due to incompatability with leaded aviation gasoline). Clean and slick with no smelly additives. Looks like it might last me until sometime in the 23rd Century.

I have tried mobil 1 automotive oil and thought it was the same effect as tube RCBS lube.

But any kind of motor oil?? I tried castrol sytec and the cases just squeeked to a stop.

When I come up with a large batch of pistol cases (ie 9mm), I squirt one shot (for each 500 cases)of midway spray lanolin in a large plastic bag, throw in the cases and roll them around. The cases really slip thru the carbide dies with a very light lube, and the lanolin feels good on my hands.

JerryO
 
Posts: 231 | Location: MN. USA | Registered: 09 June 2000Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata Page 1 2  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia