I have a few questions I would to have some experienced reloaders help me with.

I was reloading up to about 5 years ago, went through Hurrican Katrina and am just now getting back into it. The only rifles I was reloading for were autos and I was using the small base dies for .308win & .223rem. I have recently aquired a Remington 700 Police and am wanting to achieve maximum accuracy. The following are my questions:

1. I purchased the .308win competition dies and read where I should first use a decapping die, then clean the cases, then resize them. This supposedly protects the resizing die from dirty cases. If this is the case, why do they include the decapping pin/expander ball in the resizing die? Since these are competition dies, should I not use the resizer die to decap or is this just the manufacturer trying to sell something else?

2. To achieve custom headspacing, is there a way to use the full length die or do I need a neck sizer die?

3. For those of you that have reloaded for a 700 Police in .308win, what have you found to be the best head space gap and bullet seating depth distance from the lands?

I'm hoping with everyone's input on the above questions, it will give me a starting point so I can concentrate on powder charges.

Thanks!

What you want to guard against is lots of nasty yucky stuff in the die that could harm it or your brass. A universal decapping die can be used on dirty cases to remove the spent primer without sizing it so you can then get a complete clean including the primer pocket before resizing. You can also clean the case by your preferred method, then decap and size in the same action, and then clean your primer pockets with a primer pocket brush. Cases are just going to get dirty again and they aren't being used in a hospital setting. You just need them clean and free of dirt, gunk, debris and the like so they chamber easily and cleanly without leaving potentially harmful deposits in your die or chamber. Sanitized and shining is unnecessary.

LWD

There is diferent opinions as to the sequence of cleaning and resizing. I wipe each case with a soft cloth as I inspect it; I then decap and resize the case in one operation. Then I put the cases in a tumbler to clean off the sizing oils. Then I reprime the case, add my powder charge, and seat a bullet.
Some folks really get into the esotheric aspects of reloading but I've found that a full length die set up to partial full length resize (try FAQ) will do the trick without a whole lot of jimmin' around. Unless you are reloading for a one off bench rifle, that will give you all the accuracy you and your rifle are capable of.
I'm not sure what you mean by "custom headspace". I fire the rifle and then partialy resize the case (neck size with a FL die)and that is as custom as my headspace gets. I understand there has to be a certain amount of space around the case but the shrinkage that the case undergoes as it cools after firing should take care of that.
In the FWIW department, I've dies that are fifty years old and they still ain't worn out. In fact, I don't know that I've ever heard of a worn out resizing die. Except, of course, from the new die salesmen.

What I mean by "Custom headspace", is setting the headspace particular to one's personal rifle with cases which were previously fired from your rifle. Since I read your reply, it made me look for more info to better explain myself and found some instructions by RCBS that explains using a full length die in this manner. I wasn't sure if I could use a FL die to set a particular headspace designed specifically for your own rifle. The instructions with the competition dies say the same as regular FL dies instructing you to screw it down to the shell holder, while at the top of the stroke, then screw in another 1/8 to 1/4 turn where the press cams over. I see now that RCBS says you can unscrew the die to adjust headspace particular to your own rifle. In case anyone is wondering, I do realize I will have to completely resize any cases that were not shot from my rifle before setting the headspace.

When I am sizing for my Savage Tact .30-06 I set the die to give a headspace gap of between .002” to .001”. When loading for an auto-loader I set the headspace gap to .003” for easier chambering. This is what has worked for me.

Happy Shooting
sonnyboy

For a bolt action , put a shim between the shell holder and FL sizing die when setting it up in the press. Go with how the bolt feels on closing on a sized case. A shim of .004" cut from a soda cam is a good place to start. Put a hole in it for the decapper pin. IMR 4895 with 150gr bullets is a good place to start. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...pace_and_Maximum_COL

If one were to make a shim and put it between the top of the press and the lock nut on the die, wouldn't it serve the same purpose as putting it in the shell holder?

I set up my dies to full length resize my brass like the instructions say. but then, I take a piece of flat stock and make a washer which will fit around the body of the die. I put that on top of the press and thread the die down through it. By watching how far down the resizing oil is scraped off the neck, I can tell how much of the neck is being resized. I want the die to stop slightly before it touches the shoulder of the case, ie, no set back on the shoulders. After a few firings the cartridge will develope a slight "donut" around the neck at the shoulder. This does no harm and, in fact, I believe it helps align the cartridge in the chamber.
Sometimes, after several firings, the cartridge gets kinda hard to close the bolt on or if I am wanting to run up some hunting ammo, I remove the washer and full length resize the case and start over.
One advantage is you are not having to adjust your dies back and forth. By proper selection of the stock you are making the washer out of, you can control the shoulder set back it that's what you're after.

str8razor: Look at my post on the topic "Fireforming cases" by stronics. That how I find the headspace for my cases. .001" for a bolt and 0.003 for a auto sound about right but you need to find the *0* headspace first to be able to adjust your dies. I deprime my cases with a depriming die and then clean the primer pockets and then tumble them. I uses a Lee collet neck sizer so am not puting any lube on the case and can prime and load at that point.