This would ostensibly be for my M1A. I plan to initially run them through either a standard or SB die, depending on how well they chamber, and then the next go around I would consider neck sizing only.

This is just plinking ammo, nothing serious as far as hunting etc. I was wondering if anyone has advice on will it work or would a neck die be a waste of money?

In a semi-auto the case diameter after full length resizing should be .003 to .005 smaller than its fired diameter.

This allows the case to spring back from the chamber walls and extract reliably.

RELOADING FOR THE MATCH M14
http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

bigrdp51 nailed it. Joe, read the linked Zediker article thoroughly.

The two gentlemen above me are very wise.

I loaded for an M1A for twenty years. I full length sized with a small base FL die for every load.

If you get four cycles out of your brass, consider yourself quite blessed.

NEVER use someone else's once fired brass. That is an invitation for DISASTER.

Mr. Zedicker's article is a widely read classic. He has prevented many blown up rifles, missing eye balls and shattered hands.

Did I mention the part about maiming yourself??

If your using .308 dies keep in mind that all .308 RCBS dies are actually small base cut, according to a conversation I had with RCBS..For an auto I would probably full length resize only, otherwise Id bet you will have and ocassional jam.

BTW .005 is a max load and I wouldn't shoot that in any auto. I would return to factory specs with an autoloader...

I shoot max loads in all my bolt guns, but even then .005 is pushing the string a little.

quote:

Originally posted by lawndart:

NEVER use someone else's once fired brass. That is an invitation for DISASTER.

I picked up 1000 pcs. of once-fired LC brass. Are you saying don't use it?

Sorry I took so long to get back to you. Do you know that it was all fired in an M-14, M-24, or M110? The reason I ask is that most of that stuff was fired in a machine gun. Machine guns have large chambers that are often very long. The military only cares that it can fire one time, safely.
Check the headspace one a bunch of cases, and compare that to brass from your rifle. If it is more than 0.003" longer than your brass, fresh from your gun, do not use it. It has been fired in a machine gun, and is stretched beyond redemption.

I learned this the hard way. I bought a bucket of 7.62x51mm NATO once fired brass. I resized every case twice, in a small base die. It still would not fit in any of my rifles, either gas or bolt controlled. Then I annealed it all, resized it, and tried again. If that is what you are facing Do Not try to use it. It is dangerous.

Here is what I did then. I bought 1,000 new pieces of IMI brass. It is tough stuff, and held up for four reload cycles. Winchester also makes tough brass. Federal can be hard, or soft. It just depends on the lot.

If you really like shooting the M1A/M-14, upgrade to a match barrel, or trade up to a National Match gun with the heavy wood stock, or a McMillan stock. The chamber will be a little tighter, and you may get one extra reload out of your brass. For sure you will be more accurate.

An M1A is an excellent gun to le4arn the basics of hi-power competition with. When you eventually go to the poodle shooter, you will be amazed how much better you shoot. If you just wanna have fun, then just go for it.

Bottom line, check to see if you have brass from a machine gun. If you do, wash it and sell it to the scrap metal dealer. The life you save may be your own.

Take care.

Joe, LD's advice is correct. Just don't assume your batch of LC was overstretched and now scrap. Give it the benefit of headspace assessment before processing. You really should use a headspace gauge to assure adequate sizing anyway.

Thanks for the replies. I always appreciate advice from people with more experience than I.

It probably has been shot through a machinegun, at least I would assume it has (expect the worst).

My plans were to run 100 pcs throught the press and see how they fit the chamber. I also planned on picking up a chamber gauge. FWIW, I disassembled a couple rounds of surplus ammo and the cases fit the chamber of my M1A very snugly.

The reason I asked questions here is because I have very little experience loading .308. I put a few together for my 91 a while back and that's it. I saved and read that Zediker file and will reread it more. I very much appreciate the views and opinions from others here and will move cautiously.

I would also appreciate any more advice that anyone here may have.

quote:

It probably has been shot through a machinegun, at least I would assume it has (expect the worst).

Yup .... please take the advice above.

In my youth, when I was in the military, 7.62x51 once-fired machine gun brass was, ugh, let's say very available. The M-60's (back then ..... ) were notorious for excessive headspace; regardless of how I re-sized, partial, F/L, small base, neck, trimmed, etc., it was a guaranteed partial or full case separation on the initial reload (2nd loading). What a waste of my time, reloading accessories, (primer crimp swage for small & large primers, small base and neck-sizing dies to compliment the 308 Win F/L die set), let alone the risk involved; never again. I thank my lucky stars for the strength of a 308 Win. Remington 788 action, too.

quote:

Originally posted by Gerry:

quote:

It probably has been shot through a machinegun, at least I would assume it has (expect the worst).

Yup .... please take the advice above.

In my youth, when I was in the military, 7.62x51 once-fired machine gun brass was, ugh, let's say very available. The M-60's (back then ..... ) were notorious for excessive headspace; regardless of how I re-sized, partial, F/L, small base, neck, trimmed, etc., it was a guaranteed partial or full case separation on the initial reload (2nd loading). What a waste of my time, reloading accessories, (primer crimp swage for small & large primers, small base and neck-sizing dies to compliment the 308 Win F/L die set), let alone the risk involved; never again. I thank my lucky stars for the strength of a 308 Win. Remington 788 action, too.

I'm listening. I pretty much have all I need save for a case gauge. If I can get them to fit a gauge, am I really taking a major risk trying to run this stuff through my M1A? (I reread lawndart's post yet again)

Edit: I'm interested in plinking, but I am more interested in safe ammo.

If you run it through the gauge, feel the inside of the case near the base with a bent and sharpened paperclip to detect case stretching, and have four or less reloads on the piece of brass (since new) you should be okay. Stick to 42 grains of 4064 on your loads (accurate, but not hot), and you will be okay. I didn't get religion until I had a case separation back in the 1980's. I had been listening to a local range wizard, so my bad. Your cautious, but have fun attitude should serve you very well in this sport. Enjoy.

Good advise on any brass, don't buy junk or cheap stuff..Win. Rem, Fed, PPU, and some others, but beware of milsurp unless you know it..Lake city etc is Ok , but if your not attuned to whats good and whats not, stay with the standard.

A lot of good advice here which is why I inquired, but I'm not quite ready to send it out for scrap just yet.

I'll be carefully sizing and checking this stuff loading small lots at a time. I plan to use a case length gauge as well checking the fit in the chamber of my M1A. i will also be checking the resized stuff against various unfired domestic and foreign brass I have.

I will say this though, I'll be looking at new ammunition in a different light. There's obviously a lot to be said about brass that hasn't been super stretched in loose chambers.