Just started to turn the necks on some of my calibers I load for and was wondering if I need to turn the necks everytime I go through the reload process, or if just the one initial time will suffice. I am looking for the method that ensures ultimate accuracy.

You only need to turn them once if it is done properly. This, alone, will not ensure ultimate accuracy and in fact, if you are using a factory-chambered rifle, you should only turn the necks on a thick lot of brass. Buy brass that has thick necks and turn them until about 3/4ths of the neck is cleaned up. You can tell because the cutter will leave shiny areas where it cuts. Where it is still uncut, it will still be relatively dull. If you remove too much metal and use the cases in a factory chamber, you simply create excess slop to allow misalignment of the bullet.

There is some disagreement about how far back you should turn the necks. Some say never into the shoulder as that would weaken the case. Others (like me) turn their cases just barely into the shoulder to make sure it is all the way back and to help prevent the dreaded internal doughnut ring from forming at the base of the neck. Just don't go so far back as to make the neck shoot off.

Turn your cases as nearly as you can on the first go-around. Get the Sinclair tool that can help set your neck turning tool, if you got a Sinclair neck turning tool. Otherwise, just wing it with the use of a tubing micrometer. Tubing micrometers are a must for this process--no joke. Then make a very small final cut to get your last dimension. Small cuts are easier to make very uniformly.

Remember, for a factory chamber, do not take too much. It's like when they circumcise a male child--the remark is "don't take too much."

If you really want to save yourself some hassle, just buy Lapua or Norma brass as it usually does not need neck turning to be quite good.

Geo.

I can only relate my personal experience. Taking new brass I'll resize it and fire it once. After sizing the case I trim to length uniform the primer pockets and flash hole, then I outside neck turn to uniform thickness. In some cases that means only getting one half to three quarters of the outside of case neck turned and in others a smaller degree. I turn the case necks for my 375 Whelen, 30-06, 25-06 and 308.
Once I've turned the case necks I never do it a again, I will trim cases to length as it is required.
Jim

You only do it once. You'll be removing too much metal otherwise......DJ

I ONLY NECKSIZE MY CASINGS DOWN 3/16 FROM A TRIMMED CASE, THEN TURN THAT PART OF THE CASING THAT WAS SIZED. AS POSTED I ONLY REMOVE ABOUT 3/4 OF THE METAL ON THE NECK BECAUSE MY RIFLES ARE HUNTING AND VARMIT RIGS. IN THE CALIBERS I HAVE ALREADY TRIED THIS ON I HAVE NOTICED A REDUCTION IN MY GROUPS ALREADY. WAS JUST WONDERING IF I HAD TO DO THIS EVEYTIME OR NOT. THANKS FOR EVERYONES INPUT.
MIKE

Tex, just my opinion but George has it figured out pretty well. I sometimes take a neck down a second time as I NEVER totaly clean up necks on the first pass. I search only for concentric necks and uniform neck tension. A chamber with a tight neck is another story altogether.

I have no choice but to turn the outside case necks. My Borden Rifles 280AI was chambered with a .311 neck. But I got lucky when I bought it. Came with 90 pcs. with the necks already done. But I shall try this on my own pretty soon as I am planning on getting some more brass at the next gun show.