Howdy guys. I am new to reloading and planning on buying the RCBS Supreme Master Kit. I am going to be reloading .40 S&W, .45 ACP a couple other pistol rounds and .308 and 7mm rifle to begin with. My question revolves around other things that are needed that dont come in the kit. Do you have to buy the RCBS dies, I am not saying I won't buy RCBS, but will other manufacturers dies work in the press? Are most/all presses universal as far as their fittings? I just have the RCBS #13 book, but have 3 other ones that should be at the house when I get home today. I assume there is not an issue using someone elses bullets in the Press, meaning I don't have to use just Speer in their stuff. That is about all I have for now, thanks in advance for any help.

Wes

Most dies are a standard 7/8" thread so those dies - which most are - will work in your press.

You can use any bullets.

Get the book ABC's of reloading. It helped me a LOT when I first started - and still does today. Also, Metallic Cartridge Reloading by M.L. Pearson (sp?) is great too.

besides books, find yourself an experienced reloader & have a talk with him.

WesN,

Transplanted Cracker (Tampa) living abroad!

Welcome to the world of reloading, your life has just taken a turn for the better - it's fun!

Corrsosion will be an issue with the humidity in Florida, you don't have to be a fanatic about it but make sure you are aware..... don't use a water based resizing die lube or the inside of your dies will be unhappy campers in the near future.

Cheers,

Gerry

Dies for 'standard' calibers are interchangable.

Bullets are SOMEWHAT interchangable. You can use data from any load book with any SIMILAR bullets...the biggest exceptions are (compared to a traditional jacketed lead core):
1) coated bullets (moly, lubalox, etc)
2) monometal bullets like barnes X, TSX, and such, and various other copper solids

Bullet seating dies (especially pistol) frequently have multiple seating plugs for various bullet nose profiles...just use the closest one and look for scoring/deformation of the bullet nose.

The kit should have everything but dies to last you a while...but there are LOTS of toys out there that in a year you will just HAVE to have! Welcome to the addiction!

A turret press may be what you'll want for reloading pistol rounds due to three dies needed - you'll get REAL TIRED of screwing/unscrewing dies in a Chuckrocker REAL quick. Turret (like the Lee) makes it much easier.

Take your time deciding what you want/need, AFTER reading all that you can. And find one or more knoledgeable relaoders in your area to pester. My mentor was invaluable to getting me going in this fine hobby.
Visit this site and others and ask any question you need answered. There is no such thing as a dumb question...when your safety and that of others is at stake. Get several manuals: Lyman and Hornady are very good, esp for explaining the reloading process. There is also lots of free stuff by the makers of powders and bullets available too. Try loading alone, without distraction, a simple maistake (like a double load in the handgun case)can be traumatic...if not disastrous. No drinking or mind altering stuff while loading. Develop a relaoding process, an order of doing things, that does not vary. Finish the phase you started before quitting for the session. It helps to avoid mistakes and oversights. Keep only the powder you're working with on the bench at any time and make double sure it's the right one. Substituting HS7 for RL7, for example, can cause big problems. This is a hobby that grows over time with knowledge and by what you put into learning it. If you like paying attendtion to detail and precision, great. If not, cut your losses and buy your ammo. Load only for yourself at least until you're comfortable doing it....and feel you can afford the associated liability. Don't shoot loads developed by others for their guns in yours. Double check all data you get - esp that isn't published - against at least 2 commercial sources(even manuals make mistakes). Work up loads, preferably using a chronograph, from around 10% below listed max*. Do not exceed specified max.If indications are that your load is hotter than it should be - even if it's below max - STOP shooting it until you know why. Keep good notes of all work-ups, at least: powder make and charge, bullet weight, seating depth, case make, primer, and ambient temp. The case is the weakest link of your firearm. Keep them in batches of the same make, preferably the same lot, and keep track of how many times they were relaoded. Check all cases for split necks, incipient separation, length and case neck thickness growth before relaoding. Either fix the problem (trim to length or turn the necks) or throw the case away when it has reached it' useful life limit ---before it separates in your gun. These are just some things to consider. Not meant to scare you just saving you learning knowledge (sometimes the hard way)that I didn't have when a newbie. Good luck.
*Some powder should be used at suggested loads without cutting back eg W296, light cast bullet in handgun case.

i do not know if the kit includes a set of check weights. if not rcbs sells them. after the scale is "zeroed", use the weights to check the accuracy at the 1-5 grain level and the high end of weight. also, if i am loading, say, 7.0 grains of powder, i first weigh 7.0 grains of check weights, and occasionally recheck them.