The only primer pocket uniformer I own and use is the one that comes with the electricly powered RCBS "Trim mate prep center". It comes with an attatchetment for both LG + SM rifle and hand gun primers. The P-pocket uniformers are preset from the factory to cut the P-pocket to the proper prescribed depth, according to the owners manual. I have never adjusted any of them, and the RCBS owners manual strongly cautions against doing so. In the past my uniforming proceduer consisted of allowing the cutter to do its work for a count of 1000-3, or about 3 seconds while I applied uniform pressure.

I some what stumbled accross this discovery in that I noticed no matter how long I allowed my rifles cases to stay in contact with the cutter, the cutting never seemed to stop or bottom out, or ceese producing brass shavings from cutting.

Opon inspection by simply placing a new never fired .338wm case on the P=pocket uniformer while it was switched off, I immediately noticed what seemed (at least to me) a excessively large space between the case rim and the face of the P-pocket uniformer that acts as the stop in the uniforming process when the case "bottoms out" against it. I measuered this with my gap gauge and came up with an alarming gap of .030 of an inch. I consulted all 8 of my reloading manuals and none were very spacific about how much brass should be removed durring the uniforming process, but several did say it should be a relatively quick process, unlike what I am experiencing if I allow the case to bottom out

Now I will be the first to admit I am not an expert when it comes to reloading, but removing .030 from my primer pocket not only seems excesive, but even possibly dangerous. I mean there is one h*ll of alot of brass shavings left over from the two I allowed to bottom out.

Is this normal and or acceptable? and is there an accepted established depth that primer pockets should be cut to for the use of magnum large rifle primers?, and if so how do I measuer this and reset my uniformers cutting depth.

If buying a new uniformer is the best thing for me to do, which one works the best in a powered application, ie: chucked in a drill.

I will also be calling RCBS on monday, but I have always held the opinions I garnered here in the highest of esteem.

Thanks in advance to all who help me out on this and for their time in doing so.

Regards, Art.

Art 338
You might want to try the Sinclair primer pocket uniformer.I have the same RBCS case prep center as you and i use it as follows.first use the one on the case center(though mine isn't taking.030 off either) then i finish up with the Sinclair model in a powered screwdriver.This finishing seems to just square things up a tad.Also i am no expert either,but this method works fine for me.
muskrat
live to shoot=shoot to live!

According to the SAAMI specs a primer pocket should be .118-.122 deep for Small RIFLE and PISTOL......128-.132 for large RIFLE and .118-.122 for large PISTOL......I have and use the Sinclair uniformers and the small version is preset at a fixed depth....the older Large rifle version is adjustable so it could be set for either pistol or rifle......you have to keep a check on ANY of the adjustable ones due to the pressure of trimming/uniforming many cases putting strain on the set screw and making the cutter cut too deep......Most suppliers advise to check the cutter depth durring long cutting sessions due to the heat build up for constant use.......remove the lock screw and clean the face of it and the recess for the lock and then reset the cutter depth and use a good fitting hex wrench or screwdriver with some moveable type Loctite or simialr on the screw/lock......HTH..good luck and good shooting-loading!!

Art338:
I have the same setup. I believe what you are seeing is the "rounded" inner shoulder of the pocket holding yopur case up off the uniformer face. The pocket is not square where the wall meets the floor. This is part of the what and why we "uniform" the primer pockets.
Measure the depth of a few new cases, then uniform them until you have zero space between the casehead and the uniformer face. Now measure the depth of the uniformed cases. If your Trim Mate is anywhere near like mine you will find the pocket depth to be in spec (see above post)I have noted most brass requires what at first seems to be excessive cutting, but 'taint so.
You will develop a feel for when the cutter is actually done. Also with this "feel" you will notice pretty close tollerances as to the uniformed depth.
Just as an aside I also use the uniformer to "clean" my primer pockets before reloading. You will notice that you will occasionally cut some more brass from the pocket. This may be an incomplete first pass or may be some brass flow? hope this helps some.

muck

ART--FWiw--I pulled mine off the trim mate and now chuck it in a drill. The gears of the trim mate seemed to let the cutter "walk around" inside the pocket. After a few cleanings (I use the uniformer for cleaning) the pocket seems to get "out of round". It always felt to me like when seating the primers with a hand primer that they didn't seat smoothly--the last part of the seating went too ez.
Regarding your comment that you can keep removing material you are right. I always found that you could go into the pocket and get it uniformed THEN you could let all the shaving drop off the uniformer and go back in for another cleaning and more material removal. I'd say either method is fine as long as you do it "uniform". I usually just do the one time method unless I look in the pocket and still see alot of carbon--then I may go back and try and wipe that out till all I see is brass. Don't know if this makes sense or not. I don't think you can remove too much material. Today I loaded some factory brand new win brass and once again the pockets were so shallow that my brass rolled around like a punching bag on my loading table till I squeezed the hell out of the primers with the hand primer. (This happens quite often with win brass and fed primers)--If you think you've been getting too much out of the pocket I should have invited you over to ream the heck out of them and get them right.
Anyhow, I love the rcbs uniformer--just not in the trimmate but chucked in the drill. BTW--I bought a Lyman VLD chamferer a while back. The come screwed into a wood handle. Guess what--screw it out of the wood handle and into the trimmate and you have a really great chamfering system. (Pulled the rcbs uniformer and put in a lyman VLD chamfer)nothing like getting it the way you want it!

Art338
Like Kraky, i've got the Lyman Hand held uniformer and have used it manually and chucked into a cordless drill. You are chucking up a threaded shaft,but it works fine. I've done many hundreds of .223 and the stop has never moved. The Sinclair that is set up for a cordless drill looks better(having a smooth shaft etc) but i've never used one. The Lyman has held up well.
Good luck
Covey16