FWIW, I've had a couple rifles in '06 that wouldn't shoot boatails for shit. Thought it might be the crown so had those redone, but kept getting the same results. Just happened that I tried some flatbases one day. Saw a huge improvement in both rifles. As far as powder goes, I get the best accuracy using 4350.

Posted this in Medium Bore Rifles also. Any help? By the way I just wanted to say that I am new to these forums and I really appreciate the help I have received so far, I wish I would have found this earlier. Thanks!

Got a Weatherby Ultra Lightweight in 30-06. It's been beaded and floated with a 2 pound trigger. I bought it used and I'm about ready to break it over the god damn bench! It shoots like crap and I am running out of patients. I THINK it is mechanically sound, i.e. barrel, rifeling, action etc. I have'nt run the full gammit of powders/bullets YET!

Does anyone own this particular weapon that has a load that actually works? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Funny, I actually had a guy at the range tell me one time that reloading was a RELAXING hobby

Side note: My bench technique is reliable and it is not the shooter

I had this same rifle for a year, nearly drove me insane. I sent it to a weatherby repair center who said nothing was wrong with it. I ended up losing $300 (more than that if you include brass, powder, bullets etc) on a trade. I hope yours turns out better.

If there is one constant for 30-06s,it's Hornady 165gr flat base SP and IMR 4350,if that doesn't work,it's gunsmith time.I have had new Leupold 'scope give me fits.

See my post about who uses Re 19. The three loads shown generally shoot well in several 30-06's although none of them are the same rifle you're having problems with.

I bought one in January, it shot terrible until I used 57 gr of H4350 with a Sierra 180 pro hunter. It would shoot honest to god less than half inch groups. One day I shot 4 groups in a row that were between 3/8 and 1/2 inch at 100 yards. Trouble was, you had to shoot about 6 warm up shots to get the damn thing to shoot. First group would be about 1.75 inches, next would be about 1 inch and then it would shoot. This lasted for a month and then it went all to hell. It would be 6 inches low on the first shot, 3 or so inches low on the second and then shoot about 2 inch groups the rest of the time. It copper fouled terrible, looked like gold in there after 5 or 6 shots. It now belongs to a large gun store, I traded it for 2 Tikkas, they ain't no fun at all. They both shoot whatever I stick in them. Doesn't seem to matter. The best part is, the Tikka weighs with the included rings about 6 ounces more than the Weatherby. Add 5 ounces of rings and mounts to the Weatherby and the difference is negligible. The Tikka in 3006 shot a 1.5 inch group at 200 yards the first 3 shots from a cold barrel. I put it in the safe and called that good enough. I used 3 lbs of H4359, 1 of RL19, 1 of Imr4350, 1 of IMR4651, some RL22 and some Varget, at least 6 boxes of bullets, wrecked numerous brass and lots of primers on that #@$#@## Weatherby, besides that, the stock is combed so high that you MUST use high rings or you can't see through the scope. Other than that I liked the look of it, the bolt had a funny feel though. They were selling "factory seconds" at Gander Mountain for 899 bucks, the firsts were 1200. I figure there is a problem somewhere in the design if they are selling them on the cheap, if 900 bucks can be called cheap. Our local gun building guru, Randy Gregory of Accuracy Unlimited says he can build me a lightweight that WILL shoot for about 1700 dollars. I figure I had close to that in the Weatherby with all the mounts, and ammo I used. Why not get exactly what you want the first time?

After owning 4 jap built wby's Ithought I just had to get the good old american made ultra light in a 300 wby. The japs were all great shooters. The 300 gave me fits. I had someone go through it and haven't had time to see if it works now. Like Cliffs said---shouldn't have to "go through" a $1200 gun. You live and you learn. Kinda wierd though--I've read many glowing reports on the ultra light in .257 wby---wonder why. I think a tikka t-3 is in my future!!

My 06 load is 60 or 61gns of RL22 and a 165 rem corelokt. It shoots under an inch in my Mausers and well under .5" in my Son's Rem. It also kills Elk and Deer fairly well.

Not trying to rub salt in your wounds Longshot1 but I have a Wby ULW in .280 Rem amd it's a gem. I've shot several under 1" , 3 shot groups at 200 yds with mine. It even shoots most factory ammo well.
A buddy ha sone in .338-06 and his is a solid 1" shooter with most loads.

Talked to anyone at Weatherby about yours??

FN in MT

Hey cliffs2, I've got a good many light rifles that all have thin barrels. Every one of them has a Pressure Pad near the tip of the stock. Most shot quite well from the beginning, but a couple took a bit if time to find a repeatably accurate Load.

And thin barrels mean only a few shots before letting it cool. I'm never in a hurry in working up a Load. Just take 2-3 shots and set that rifle aside for awhile.

I find it strange that the original owner of LS1's U-Lt "bedded and floated" it. Just nothing at all wrong with mine and the few others I've had my hands on in this area.

The stock on mine fits me really well, but I completely agree with you that if a different shaped stock fits you better, then that is what you should be using. We all occasionally get an "education expense" on a rifle though.

Best of luck on your Custom Rifle. I've got a Carolina buddy having a Dream Rifle built for himself right now. Hopefully I'll get to see it later this month.

I believe most fwt barrels shoot better with 3 point bedding and pressure up front, but not all of them..It is a matter of barrel harmonics and all barrels are different..

For the 30-06 I like old H4831, been using it for years..I have one 06 that dotes on it and H414...I like the 180 gr. Noslers and they shoot best in my guns..

I don't normally shoot boattails as that has been nothing but hype for years and 90% of rifles will shoot better with a flat base bullet that give a better gas seal IMO...they are probably OK for 1000 yard bench rest. They also have a sho nuff tendency to come apart or drill without expansion in game, very unpredictable.

Frank, ouch! that's all right, glad to here yours is a shooter. I might have this thing licked though. Here's what I found. I have to shoot a 150-168 gr bullet (so far all I've tried is the Nosler BT's but I am going to try Barnes new TSX) very fast, either at or just above max. I went a half grain above max in the Nosler manual for RL19 and it shot .75". That's plenty accurate for me. But I suppose I will end up tinkering even more.

h4350 and a 165 gr. bullet...I use the Hornady Interbond 56-58 grs. of powder will get you 2750-2850 fps in a 22" tube