Reloading for a 243wssm. Have a Redding FL resize die adjusted past a 1/4 turn when the shellholder hits the die. Went through the process as the instructions said to turn the die a little at a time and check how the bolt closes. Have shot the reloads several times.

Purchased a Forster Ultra Micro/FL resize die set. Followed their instructions and the bolt has a little more resistance when closing the bolt. Adjusted the die so it goes about a 1/3 past the shellholder. Why the difference? Read that after fl resizing the bolt should close on a slight "crush" fit. This is what it feels like with the Forster FL resize die.
Wheras the Redding has a little less resistance.
The Forster is harder to "cam over"@ the bottom of the stroke now. Also, this is not a factory barrel but a Hart. Which setting is the correct way the Redding or the Forster? Thanks for any help.

I like to barely feel the bolt drag when closing the bolt. I would pick the one with less drag or grind the end of the die slightly to make the bolt avoid a heavy crush.

SR4759 says,

quote:

...grind the end of the die slightly...

Better yet, lathe off .010-.015 inches from the topmost face of your shellholder, assuming you use the Lee-type or RCBS-type shellholders. This will allow you to set the die exactly where you want it. To find that location, you adjust the die up and down with varying thicknesses of feeler gauges until you find the gap between the shellholder and the mouth of the die that allows a bolt closing with just that exact amount of feel you want. I do this on my MRC rifle. It's very easy to do on those bolts. I remove the striker assembly which allows me to chamber my resized, unloaded cases without any influence from the firing pin spring. I can feel exactly how much pressure it takes to close the bolt. If it doesn't damned near drop closed because of its own weight, I know my setting is not correct.

quote:

Which setting is the correct way the Redding or the Forster? Thanks for any help.

First, adjust your sizer for results and forget any insturctions to turn a die to a point and then some difficult to gage precise amount past that. Fact is, press spring varies and that changes things, espcecially any "cam over."

It's highly unlikely you need to modify your dies at all, at least try the foilowing approach first. THE only effectice "rule" is to make your sized cases fit YOUR chamber. Doing that is quite easy. (Even I can do it!)

Install the sizer and turn it down until you make shellholder contact and back it OUT a quarter turn or so. Size a case, with the lever fully depressed, then remove it and see how it chambers. Likely will be somewhat difficult or even impossible. (If not, turn the die OUT a bit more and try again with another case.)

To adjust the sizer right, turn the die down in small increments, like an eight of an inch of surface change on the threads, then keep sizing/testing/adjusting until you can chamber and close the bolt with just a touch of resistance. Lock the sizer at that point and go!

A die changes the shoulder some .072" per full turn. Most bottle neck cartridges have a headspace "tolerance" head to shoulder length of around .008", from minimum to maximum. The often suggested "small" quarter turn on the sizer changes the shoulder changes the shoulder about .016", or twice the full range of lattitude for total headspace. Meaning, use really small changes when adjusting a sizer up or down or you will go from one extreme to past the other!