I just got my RCBS reloading kit last week and I have a few questions before I load some bullets. I have read the speer and hogdon manuals but I wanted to know what you guys do. Sorry in advance if these are stupid questions. Here is the first question- For example, the Hogdon manual recommends using a Win LR primer in the 22-250 with all powders listed. Suppose I did not have any Win LR but did have CCI 200 primers. Is it safe to use the CCI 200 instead of Win LR as long as I started with the starting load and worked up? Second question- The Hogdon manual shows a 55g speer sp in the 22-250. Would it safe to use a 55g hornady sp instead as long as I started at the starting load and worked up?
Or do you guys only use the exact components listed in the manual? I wish to be a safe reloader and would like to know what you guys with reloading experience do. Thanks, Ryan

Welcome to the reloading business! It does not really matter what brand of primers you use as long as you use the same type recommended by manual. In the manual there should be a chart somewhere showing different types of primers. As for the projectile, if they are similar in lenght and the COL is also similar then you should be fine. Good luck.

rj, As long as you start, at the starting load and work your way up each time you change a component you shouldn't have any problems.

And welcome aboard rj

1. Yes, so long as you start with the start load and work up, but after having worked up your load, if you switch primers, go back to start and work it up again.

2. I would not do that. It would be OK to use 55 gr. loading data for a 50 gr. bullet, but not 50 gr. data for a 55 gr. bullet. There is loading data for 55 gr. bullets in most manuals and should be on the web also. Check Hodgdons's site. On a bigger bullet, a 5 gr. difference between a 400 gr. and 405 gr, or even a 170 gr. and a 165 gr, can be ignored when working up a load, but when talking about such a lightweight bullet as we are, I would much prefer to use data for a 55 gr. load when working with a 55 gr. bullet. A 52 gr. bullet with 50 gr. data would be OK, but that's about as far as I would take it with these lightweights.

Switching around primers when starting to work up a load is not a problem so long as you start from start. Switching brands of bullets so long as they are the same weight or slightly lighter is not a problem so long as you start from start. Again, not using the same make brass is no problem so long as you start from start.

But, with an established load, if you switch bullet brand, even in the same weight, primer brand or go from a standard primer to a magnum, or the other way, or switch brand or even a different lot of brass, then always start over from the suggested start load. To be 100% safe, you should even start over again if switching between lots of powder even though they are the same brand and type, but I usually just drop back a bit and work back up if all else stays the same, instead of going all the way back to start.

[ 02-10-2003, 03:38: Message edited by: Big Bore ]

#1 There are no stupid questions when one is trying to learn something new. Componet changing is no big deal, extremely fun and the only way to find the best load for your rig, especially when you work up from a starting load. About the only thing you might not want to do is substitute a magnum primer for a regular, usually don't need them anyway.

You can use any brand standard large rifle primer you have on hand in your 22-250 it will be fine. Any brand 55 grain bullet will work fine, but it may not shoot as well as another brand of the same weight. Large rifle magnum primers are designed to be used in large magnum cases. Only experimenting will show you posotive results, that is what makes reloading your own ammo so much fun. Seating depth is also very important in the quest for accuracy. Matching bullet weight to bore twist rate is also important. In most all cases a HP bullet will be longer than PSP bullet. My 22-250 shoots well with REL-15, Varget, IMR-4064 powder. Winchester brass using Federal LR primers. The 22-250 is a fine shooting accurate cartridge.
You should start at the starting load for the bullet weight you are using and not exceed the maximum load listed. In most all cases you will find the best accuray to be in the mid range area of those powder charges listed. You must also find a powder your rifle likes best. No such thing as a stupid question in the serious business of reloading your own ammo. Do your reloading in a well lighted room on top of a strongly made reloading bench away from any distractions. Keep you supplies stored in a cool dry area. Keep your powder stored in the container it was in when purchased. One of your most important tools should be a bullet puller. Mistakes are made and you can always take the loaded round apart. Always record and mark your reloads so you know what you have in the loaded round at all times. I use wide masking tape on my plastic cartridge cases marked with the load I have in them. Keep a card file with your best loads listed for quick and easy loading information.

RJ:
Reloading with the same class of primers should
be no problem especially in the early stages. Pay
very close attention to the type of bullet and
stay with the weight and powder recomendations.
Stay away from cannelured bullets unless you are
loading for a semiautomatic. The "Modern Reloading
by Richard Lee" manual gives most of their recipies grouped by bullet weight with no preference for brands of bullets but gives minimum
overall cartridge lengths using differant powders.
Finding a particular type of powder to match a
specific type of bullet is where the fun begins.
The RCBS (SPEER) web site has a very good reload-
ing section and if you will follow that procedure
closely you will be safe and should produce some
excellent hand loads. Stay with recomended data
and always start at the lowest and work up! BLR7