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<plpetit>
posted
I have got a Schmidt Rubin KAR 31 rechambered in 30X284 (military calibers are forbidden in France), I used successfully 30X284 ammunitions and reloaded them.

I wanted new brass but found only 284 Win, I tried to expand the collar from .284 to .308 but after two cases I destroyed the brass and damaged my RCBS die (my cases were correctly lubed and the inside of the collar too).

I think the only solution is fireforming, but I have no information about it:

1- Can I shoot a .284 bullet in a .308 barrel and will the neck expand sufficiently?

2- What kind of bullet should I use (lead only or jacketed)?

3- Which percentage of powder from a normal load should I use and what type of powder (just precise black or quick or slow because powder manufacturing is a monopole in France and we cannot find other powder brands)?

I thank you in advance for your answers, I know how to reload but resizing from another caliber and fireforming are new for me.


P.L. PETIT

 
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quote:
Originally posted by plpetit:
I have got a Schmidt Rubin KAR 31 rechambered in 30X284 (military calibers are forbidden in France), I used successfully 30X284 ammunitions and reloaded them.

I wanted new brass but found only 284 Win, I tried to expand the collar from .284 to .308 but after two cases I destroyed the brass and damaged my RCBS die (my cases were correctly lubed and the inside of the collar too).

I think the only solution is fireforming, but I have no information about it:

1- Can I shoot a .284 bullet in a .308 barrel and will the neck expand sufficiently?

2- What kind of bullet should I use (lead only or jacketed)?

3- Which percentage of powder from a normal load should I use and what type of powder (just precise black or quick or slow because powder manufacturing is a monopole in France and we cannot find other powder brands)?

I thank you in advance for your answers, I know how to reload but resizing from another caliber and fireforming are new for me.


P.L. PETIT


P.L. Try this...use a fast burning type powder...pistol type...Unique/2400/H110 and use 10 grains to start...then fill the case with cream of wheat food grain...tap the case to fill it well and then use a little dab of wax on the
mouth of the case and shoot the load with the gun pointed up....OUTSIDE IN A SAFE DIRECTION>>>THE CREAM OF WHEAT CAN BE HURTFUL VERY CLOSE....the case will blow out to fireform to the chamber of the gun...if it is not fully blown out then up the charge a small amount untill it does....this works with cases that have the same headspace/parent case..just different mouth/bullet size...or order expander mandrel kit from Sinclairintl. if possible for you....clean the cases and gun after fireforming with the cream of wheat dry ceral and it won't hurt anything..this is a oldie but goodie way of not using bullets for fireforming...it is listed in several loading guides/articles and I have used it for fireforming for new gun....good luck and good shooting!!!
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Jackson/Tenn/Madison | Registered: 07 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Dutch
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PL, something isn't right. Going from .284 to .308 should NOT be a big deal. I'd start by getting a tapered expander button, but I have necked up cases larger than that without them.

Shooting .284 bullets down a .308 bore can be done, but it's not something I would even consider. Rather, you can fireform without a bullet, by using fast shotgun/pistol powder, a filler like cream of wheat cereal, and a wax plug (or stick the neck in a bar of soap) to hold it all together. Start with 8 grains or so, and increase until you get a nice fireformed case. HOWEVER, you can't use the bullet to headspace on with this method, so your brass must fit in the chamber properly to prevent head-space separations.

Back to the original problem, though. Something isn't right. What damage was done to the dies? What did the ruined cases look like? How did you go about this? HTH, Dutch.

 
Posts: 4564 | Location: Idaho Falls, ID, USA | Registered: 21 September 2000Reply With Quote
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I don't know what your problem is but I just ran 284's through my 30-384 dies and had perfect cases, never a glitch...

I suspect as above you need a tapered expander button from RCBS and if you ruined or damaged your dies, you got way to aggressive in your endeavor...sounds like you could use some instruction if someone is available that can assist you...

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 41833 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
<plpetit>
posted
Here what happened!

I used my RCBS dies just as normal, I did not removed the decapping pin.

I paid attention to the first case, acted slowly, progressively moved downward my press handle while turning gently the case: perfect result.

I acted for the second one just like I was resizing a used case, not brutaly but somemore quickly, I did not notice (noticed afterwrds) that the collar was slightly bent.

I proceeded the third mecanically, everything got wrong, the case was torn from the collar to the shoulder, the pin was broken and the rod of my die was bent!

The problem lies certainly from the second case which provoked a misalignment of the decapping pin, the pressure did not act as expected a side of the case neck was weaker than the other.

I thank all of you for the good freforming recipes, I think I shall be more clever using that solution!

Headspace is not a problem, the case fills exactly the chamber except for the caliber.

P.L. PETIT

 
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<Ken Howell>
posted
The advice (above) to fire-form with inert (dry cereal) filler is good -- but omits an important step (Step 2, below).

1. Charge the case with fast powder as advised above. (Your primer should be a PISTOL, not rifle, primer.)
2. Tamp a small wad of paper (about 1/4 square of toilet tissue) atop the powder charge (lightly).
3. Fill the case to the mouth with fairly fine dry cereal (NEVER, EVER flour)
4. Seal the mouth of the case with a smear of soft grease, wax, or soap. NEVER, EVER use a bullet.

Bonne chance, mon ami!

[This message has been edited by Ken Howell (edited 10-23-2001).]

 
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Not that I can add anything to what Ken has just posted, but for interest's sake here is my recipe for fireforming a 6.5 Gibbs from 270 brass. (I stole it from Rocky Gibbs).

1. CCI 200 primer

2. 11 gr unique powder. Tamp case lightly to flatten charge.

3. Slowly fill case to mouth with Cream of Wheat. Cover mouth with finger and lightly tap bottom of case on bench to settle the cereal. The cereal usually settles to the bottom of the neck.

4. Pull off 1 square of toilet paper. Roll it into a worm. Pull about 1" off the end and coil into case neck. Makes a pretty tight plug.

5. Load and shoot. Definately point in a safe direction, and don't do in town (loud). Watch your barrel temp as it will heat up almost as fast as shooting regular loads.

FWIW, Canuck.

 
Posts: 7121 | Location: The Rock (southern V.I.) | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ken Howell:
(NEVER, EVER flour)

Ken

Why NOT use flour?--Will it (possibly)
creat a dust-explosion, or is there
another problem? the_captn

 
Posts: 238 | Location: earth | Registered: 03 October 2001Reply With Quote
<Ken Howell>
posted
quote:
Originally posted by captnemo:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ken Howell:
(NEVER, EVER flour)

Ken

Why NOT use flour?--Will it (possibly)
creat a dust-explosion, or is there
another problem? the_captn


It's 'way too fine. It packs solid and plugs the neck. Pressures soar, sometimes ruinously..

When Winchester started buffering shot with one of my friend "Bill" Williams's inventions, "Grex," shotshell handloaders tried using flour as a substitute for it. 'Tweren't good judgment -- the flour packed hard and solid, plugged barrels, and blew-up shotguns.

I once examined most of the pieces of a thoroughly devastated shotgun and told the insurance company's lawyer that the handloader had probably tried to buffer his shot with flour. When the plaintiff's lawyer told his client what I'd "found," the fellow immediately dropped the suit (suggesting that [a] my "opinion" must've seemed like ESP and [b] must've been right on the nose.

[This message has been edited by Ken Howell (edited 10-24-2001).]

 
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>..flour's [QUOTE]'way too fine. It
>packs solid and plugs the neck.
>Pressures soar, sometimes ruinously..
>[end quote]

Okay; thanks for the info.

the_captn

 
Posts: 238 | Location: earth | Registered: 03 October 2001Reply With Quote
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Gents,
I have had some varing results using Unique for fireforming so I went to Bullseye at the advise of Jack Belk and have had better results....anyone else?? It may be a caliber thing??

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 41833 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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FWIW I fireformed 35 416Taylor cases last nite from 264 and 7mag cases. I use 12gr. Bullseye, tissue patch,fill with oatmeal(packed) another piece of tissue to keep in oatmeal if case is tipped,bang.I lost 2 out of 35 (blew off necks)This is the same method we use to form Gibbs cases from '06.
Mark
 
Posts: 109 | Location: Sask.Ca | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
<Paul Dustin>
posted
Are you using a lube on the in side of the case mouth this will help and I use a taper button on my sizing die. go from 6mm to 30 cal.If you need one go to www.sinclairintl.com and you can get one. this will fix it for you
Paul
 
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<ol crip>
posted
quote:
Originally posted by plpetit:
Here what happened!

I used my RCBS dies just as normal, I did not removed the decapping pin.

I paid attention to the first case, acted slowly, progressively moved downward my press handle while turning gently the case: perfect result.

I acted for the second one just like I was resizing a used case, not brutaly but somemore quickly, I did not notice (noticed afterwrds) that the collar was slightly bent.

I proceeded the third mecanically, everything got wrong, the case was torn from the collar to the shoulder, the pin was broken and the rod of my die was bent!

The problem lies certainly from the second case which provoked a misalignment of the decapping pin, the pressure did not act as expected a side of the case neck was weaker than the other.

I thank all of you for the good freforming recipes, I think I shall be more clever using that solution!

Headspace is not a problem, the case fills exactly the chamber except for the caliber.

P.L. PETIT



P L;
reading your post and replies. All are sound advice but the problem was lost in the wash somewhere. we still have not determined what caused the failure. Sounds to me that you might have had a piece of foreign material in case # 2 and it caused the insides of your RCBS die to go south. Like Atkinson said, you should be able to go from 284 to 308 in one step with no difficulty. But if something got in case #2 and caused the rod to bend and #3 broke it from misalignment. You might also try some graphite lube on the inside of the neck, if nothing else it will save wear and tear on your die. KEEP YOUR POWDER DRY...OL CRIP

------------------
OL CRIP
NUCLEAR GRADE UBC RETIRED

 
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<plpetit>
posted
This week-end I fireformed my cases, it worked like a charm!

I used 10 gr of pistol powder, "couscous" (ground cereal from arabian origin) and toilet paper to top the cartridge.

I checked my tools, the cases which were formed/destroyed, I cannot see the origin of my problems, I suspected a wrong shell holder (for 30X30 for instance), but the mounted one was the #3 from RCBS.

But never mind the job is done correctly now!

I thank you all who helped me.

P.L. PETIT

 
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358 Mark,
Try 10 grs. of Bullseye, thats hot stuff..and always use new brass for fireforming, you should not be blowing off necks......

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 41833 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I've used 700x with a sqare of tissue and no filler otherwise. works well. But for 30-284 I wouldn't be bothering to fireform at all. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3522 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
<Vasa>
posted
When using new specialty (read expensive) cases and always when fireforming, I start the process by annealing the case mouths.
This saves on your cases alot. One source told me that contrary to what they say, most case manufacturers do not anneal their new cases? With some cases I anneal them after every 5th firing. This is also supported by A2:s reloading book.
 
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