Hi Guys, does anyone know the correct method to adjust and set an RCBS flash hole deburring tool?

Bobby B.

Nah, Bobby. Just add it to your collection of thingies that sound good but do nothing. Most reloaders have a whole shelf full.

Don't know if this is "the correct" method or not.
But I take a couple cases. Use the uniformer to "feel" the burs. Then with a couple twists cut them off. Then go back to feeling. If the hole feels smooth then I hold the uniformer tight in the flash hole, and move the pilot into contact with the case neck. Now you are set to go.
Note that you have to have already trimmed the cases for length.
Hope this helps.

muck

That is one of the few gizzies that I think actually works. muck does it the way I do except I will look inside the case during setup to make sure the bevel is even and consistant.

I also do what muck said.

I just use feel. I don't use the stop.

I dont use that guide/stope either. just stick it in there and twist off the damn burrs!

To set it up correctly you must trim your brass to a uniform length first, the case mouth is the stop for the depth. You can do as others have said and not use the stop, but you want a uniform depth for consistency.
Once you have your depth right, just lock the stop in place and chamfer all of your cases.

FWIW, the Sinclair tool is much easier to use, it has an inbuilt stop and doesn't use the case mouth as a depth stop. I can do 200 cases in about 1/2 an hour!

IBIN using the Sinclair in-built stop tool since it first came out and the "unstopped" tool prior to that, and a 4" #2 center drill with a home made stop way back in the olden days...done a ton of brass in just about all calibers

I like my ammo and rifles to be as accurate and uniform as possible so spending a few minutes with two electric drill/screwdrivers with the flash hole tool and primer pocket uniformer,(using a Lee trimmer in a drill makes short work of trimming and deburring the case mouth also) while mindlessly watching football/baseball/basketball when the snow is 4' deep ouside is small price to pay for better, more accurate ammo.

You'd be surprised at just how much metal you get out of those flash holes...keep a pick handy to pick out the brass that sticks up inside the tool.

The only brass that doesn't need much cleaning is Lapua, Norma and RWS.

Doing the flash holes is only required once and is good for the life of the case.

I think it's a small price to pay. Whether or not it adds to the accuracy is arguable, but it DOES give you a better primer flame front, a much more uniform powder burn and most likely a more uniform velocity and SD...at least that's what some tests I did in the past indicate...again arguable.

Making high level ammo doesn't appeal to all hunters, but if you want to stay in the winners circle at a target/long range shoot you better do all you can to produce accurate ammo and having something toothy use you for a snack because you didn't bother to check for flash holes can sure ruin a high dollar hunt. Hahahahahahah

Luck

Thanks guys for your input. I've been doing what Muck says, too. For some reason or another, I somehow felt there might be a more 'scientific' method. Good to know I'm doing what you all are doing.

Bobby B.

"deburring your flash holes will keep you from being eaten by an animal" ROFLMFAO Now that, boys and girls, is a really, really far-fetched justification for performing a pointless act.
The holier than thou remark about some folks not being interested in high level ammo was pretty cute too.
Deburr or don't deburr. Whatever floats your boat. But don't pretend that it does anything toward accuracy. On the up side, it does take away time that you might normally spend pushing beans up your nose.

I shoot competitive benchrest and we are the most anal retentive bastages you've ever met when it comes to brass prep. I uniform my primer pockets and flash holes; however, I've stopped deburring the flash holes.

Try this; next time you fire form or reload with new brass, deburr the flash holes on a couple cases and don't deburr on a couple others. Once they been fired a time or two, take magnifying glass or a bore scope and look at the flash holes from inside. You won't find any burrs. The explosion that occurs when firing a cartridge takes care of any burrs you may have inside the case - I promise.

Jeff Welker, BINGO!!!
Anyone that is interested in making a "high level of ammo" understands that the first step is fire forming. That also serves to smooth and uniform the inner lip of the flash hole. Assuming one doesn't get eaten whilst doing the fire forming.
It's always interesting to read the often exotic reasons why folks do the things they do when a simple comparative test would give them definitive answers.

+1 for the muck method

"Pointless acts" ALWAYS produce information, the level of which is determined AFTER the act is performed and consistent with the mental capacity of the interpretor...no one knows the value or the results until AFTER the "Pointless act" is performed and the results investigated...the very basis of scientific theory...and THEN all the Monday Morning quarterbacks can shoot off their faces about how THEY would have played the game...but ALWAYS POST PRIORI...some of you ......... wouldn't know sh** unless someone else did the work and the results were scattered around on the net or printed.

Jeff and ustabee...I was doing benchrest and competitive shooting well over 40 years ago when all these "pointless acts" and a whole lot of other "EXOTIC" things were being developed and tested. Many nuances were tried and used or discarded...I DID THE WORK and paid the cost of the information...I didn't read it for free on the internet and become an expert.

I remember a WHOLE LOT of very strange things done by well respected shooters. The only reason I know they were "very strange things" is AFTER the results were in and they were found to be "STRANGE"...many of the things we do today as a matter of course were ALSO "STRANGE THINGS" until they became de rigueur today...like neck turning, case and bullet weighing AND measuring the ogive.

You need to get your head up outa your ass ustabee...fireforming is only ONE part of the process of developing "high quality ammo"..."EVERYONE KNOWS THAT"...and "EVERYONE" has a different level or expertise and requirements for their shooting fun.

You never come across a piece of brass without a flash hole, there ustabee????? You never have a newbee ask you WHY some factory POS cartridge didn't go off and after breaking down the cartridge find NO FLASH HOLE???? I have and not just once. I didn't come to know what I know by sitting in front of a monitor mindlessly, or laughing at what someone said.

If you're so damned expert in this field why don't you start your own website and forum...I'm sure all of us unwashed masses of "Techies" would want to go there to learn all the secrets.

Are you so insecure in yourself you have to flame someone to feel superior????

Whasamatta...you don't know innuendo, tongue in cheek, hyperbole when you read it????

Get a life.

I do what I do because I HAVE PROVED TO MYSELF the merits of the actions through experiments and testing...you know the old adage about the horse and water...it fits perfectly here.

Of course, if you know all these "pointless things", you wouldn't do any of them and can be smug in your superior knowledge that all those others are just wasting their time and know nothing.

You're right Jeff...the burrs are blown out after a firing or two...but why waste the time, components, wear and tear on your shooter and money when a few minutes will take care of the problem and start you out with a nice, clean beveled cone...why even mess with uniforming the hole or the pocket when you can just start shooting???

Ever think just how much you could improve IF you DID deburr??? Why even bother with doing ANY of the mindless minutia requried to be a competitive benchrest shooter???

Why is Lapua, Norma and RWS brass so much superior to POS Rem and WIN...is it because they take time to make the cases as uniform as possible and DRILL the flash hole not punch it??????

If there wasn't any reason to drill the hole WHY would ANY brass maker go to the trouble to do it.

Hey ustabee...it aint the "Techies" with the problem...it's the "Oldies" who stopped thinking.

The difference between the winners and those who just place is the level of extreme winners are willing go to be first...in ANY sport.

EVERYONE works to the level of "high performance ammo" that they are comfortable with. I don't flame or distain someone who only reloads at the minimum level for a once a year deer hunt just because they don't want to bother doing everything else.

The problem with this forum, now and has been for as long as I've been visiting it, is the penchant for many to stir up the sh** instead of disagreeing in an agreeable mannor

It's your choice that you do...do it or don't.

Luck

Ultra-sonic cleaning50/50 vinegar & water. No need for flash-hole cleaner! Cleans the inside of your case like new too......

quote:

Try this; next time you fire form or reload with new brass, deburr the flash holes on a couple cases and don't deburr on a couple others. Once they been fired a time or two, take magnifying glass or a bore scope and look at the flash holes from inside. You won't find any burrs. The explosion that occurs when firing a cartridge takes care of any burrs you may have inside the case - I promise.

I have not found this to be true. I have used my de-burring tool on many cases (.22-250, .257 AI, 7mm RM, .300 Wby, and .375 RUM) that all had been fired multiple times, and they all still had the burr in them. The "explosion" that occurs inside the case creates pressure equally on all internal surfaces which will form the case to the same dimensions as the inside of the chamber, but it will not remove the flash hole burr.

I bought a Lyman Flash Hole De-burring tool several years ago and have been using it on all of my rifle brass ever since. Uniformity is good, and a few extra seconds per case doesn't hurt anything. How many hours are wasted on the internet?

Gee Foobar, you're a self professed bed-rock of hyper accuracy knowledge. Why don't you tell us about some of the things you personally have done to further the field of hyper accuracy?? You know, inventions, techniques and the like. Or do you just keep doing the same thing over and over but expect different results each time? Or are you one of the many stool shooters that are monkey see, monkey do and follow the latest hype or fad. As one noted bench shooter said, "if I went to the match with paddles glued to my stock, at the next match, every stock on the line would have sprouted them."

I won't pick your shrill, little plaint apart, suffice it to say that it is as silly as your first one. And it's fairly obvious that you didn't really read my posts. I guess once your "logic" was questioned, you kinda lost it.
I suggested that a comparitive test (as did Jeff) would answer any questions about deburring adding to your accuracy. Further I said that the FIRST STEP toward accurate ammo is fire forming. I guess you were already off on your rant and missed that. I guess you also missed me mentioning that most reloaders had a shelf full of thingies that didn't really help or work out. maybe you're one of the ones that never learn that some things just don't work and don't have any thingies that you don't use. You asked how could we know if it helped accuracy without doing it. I have done it and quickly learnt that it is a needless, idle time waster. Does everyone have to burn their finger to know the fire is hot? Here you brag about all of the vast knowledge that you personally have developed and expect others to take on face value but if knowledge doesn't agree with your particular beliefs, you think up pious and silly reasons why your beliefs are best.
I don't know exactly how store bought ammo got involved in your rant, but it's been so long since I bought any store ammo other than .22 that I wouldn't know the answer. I've never had anyone tell me that they had a mis-fire with store ammo and the reason was no flash hole. If that was your question. You, of course, have found it very common since it fits ritht in with your ideas. I will say however, amongst all of the trashy, domestic brass I've worked with over the years, and the imported stuff too, I have never, ever found a case without a flash hole. In the event that I do, I don't see how deburring a non-existant flash hole will correct the problem.
I don't consider myself an expert since I don't earn my living reloading. But I do know a great deal and have considerable experience. I like to use that knowledge and experience to help newbies from having to stick their fingers in the fire at the say so of some blow hard that thinks his 40 years makes him infallible.
You admitted that even your outcome driven "test" were inconclusive. Tell me, what sort of lab equipment do you have that you could measure the relative brisance of a primer thru a deburred and non-deburred flash hole?? What lab equipment do you have that lets you determine that the powder burn is more uniform with a deburred flash hole?? What was your methodology?
Please, inquiring minds would like to know.
As far as me setting up my own forum, I like this one. You are the one that is unhappy with it. That and our trashy brass. Maybe you're the one that needs to be moving along.

I was just getting to think that deburring the flash hole was a useless exercise until I bought a bag of Rem. 45-70 brass. The flash hole looked like a tin can that someone had only useed the can opener 2/3 of the way around. Oh, and I never use the stop I just turn the tool until the hole feels clean. The aformentioned brass was more work than I have ever done on anything else. DW

On all new Lots of Cases, I:
1. P-FLR.
2. Trim to length with the wonderful Lee Case Trimmer and Shell Gauge.
3. Square the Primer Pocket with a Tool from White Tail Design.
4. Trim the Flash Hole inside the Case with a Tool that has a Stainless "STOP Collar" over the cutting bit. If I could remember the name of it, I'd toss it in, but I've had it for a very long time and just do not remember where I got it from.
5. Deburr the outside of the Case Mouth.
6. Champfer the inside of the Case Mouth.
7. Polish the Case Mouth with 0000SteelWool wrapped around an old 22cal Bore Brush.
8. Weigh and Record the value of each Case for the entire Lot. Then I can segregate them into any size Lots I desire.

Doesn't matter to me what anyone else does to their Cases. It is my time to use as I see fit, so that is what I do.

Best of luck to you all.

quote:

Doesn't matter to me what anyone else does to their Cases. It is my time to use as I see fit, so that is what I do.

Hot Core, I like your attitude.

While I've only been reloading a few years I try and be a student as much as possible. I couldn't say with authority but I would assume case prep is far more necessary -- or should I say noticeable with a tight chamber than a factory hunting rifle. But then again this would be just one part of many that aid in consistency which of course helps accuracy.

Either way, I was taught to be anal with case prep and pretty mcuh am. It bothers me not to square/clean the primer pockers, new and fired brass. I deburr flash holes most of the time. Not for AR plinking and such!

If it matters I use the Sinclair tool w. the guide....Why bother if you are not using the guide???????? I don't get that.

Shooting Sports Journal, a NRA publication, http://accurateshooter.wordpre...offered-free-online/

http://digital.olivesoftware.c...E/ShootingSportsUSA/

“National Highpower Champion Middleton Tompkins” page 8/9. Mid is a six time XTC National Champion, his credentials are on page 8.

Mid trims his brass but does not think a thousandth’s or two makes a difference. Does not uniform primer pockets or flash holes. “It may make a difference in benchrest, but it sure does not make a difference in our game, especially from 600 yards”.

I ream primer pockets to avoid high primers. It is a safety issue, but I have never seen a difference on target with a hand held rifle.