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canalure
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is there a way to put a crimping groove (canalure) into a bullet? I like using these in my semi autos. Sierra makes canalured bullets for Federal but not for the regular Joe
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Newton NH | Registered: 15 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Do a Google search for a canneluring tool. It seems to me that Forster used to make one...
 
Posts: 4748 | Location: TX | Registered: 01 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Either CH-4D or Corbin makes one. I have the CH-4D and am satisfied with it

http://www.ch4d.com/

http://www.corbins.com/
 
Posts: 77 | Location: W. Branch MI USA | Registered: 22 April 2002Reply With Quote
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If you use a Lee Factory crimp die after you seat them, it will make a can. in the bullet if you have it set right. I don't crimp mine very tight in some rifles, just snug but, it will sure put a can. in it if you want it to.

If you don't mind me asking, why would you want a can. in a rifle bullet?

Have a Good One

Reloader
 
Posts: 4146 | Location: North Louisiana | Registered: 18 February 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by 1in10:
I like using these in my semi autos.


Have you experienced problems with uncrimped case mouths, or do you just "like" crimping into a cannelure?
 
Posts: 13274 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I suppose I really dont need the can. but what I am tryng to do is duplicate a Federal premium 308 165 gr btsp. One of my rifles loves these things @ 50 yards they are through the same hole and @ 100 it groups about 3/8" and I am having trouble reloading to the same accuracy. The other question I have is if this is for hunting do I just kiss the top of the brass with the seating/crimping die; is their a rule of thumb for bench shooting vs. hunting?
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Newton NH | Registered: 15 March 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by 1in10:
I suppose I really dont need the can. but what I am tryng to do is duplicate a Federal premium 308 165 gr btsp. One of my rifles loves these things @ 50 yards they are through the same hole and @ 100 it groups about 3/8" and I am having trouble reloading to the same accuracy. The other question I have is if this is for hunting do I just kiss the top of the brass with the seating/crimping die; is their a rule of thumb for bench shooting vs. hunting?


If you are looking for more accuracy I`d be leery of doing anything that will warp the jacket, including putting a canelure in the bullet. The canelure won`t do anything to improve the bullets balance and may just cause the jacket to sepeate from the core.

I would look at changeing the COL or trying other powders to see if the accuracy improves. The case mouth doesn`t need to be crimped either to produce accurate hunting loads unless youare loading for a semi auto or tube mag rifle. The cases have to be trimmed to even lenght when crimping to insure a consistant amount of neck tension or the bullet if you do have to apply one.


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"Why shouldn`t truth be stranger then fiction?
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"Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt".



 
Posts: 2535 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 20 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Hey 1in10, I thought you were talking about pistols when you said semi-autos. So, I'll delete that post.

You can get Hornady bullets with a cannalure and Roll Crimp them if you want to. And occasionally some Over-Runs of bullets make it to the market with cannelures that don't normally have them. But it is difficult to find them.

As for a Rule of Thumb, as long as the rifle is feeding properly, and the Cartridges in the magazine are not changing length during recoil, there is no real need to do a Crimp.

You can alter Neck Tension through a combination of Annealing and changing the Expander size on regular Die Sets.
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Guys thanks for the insite. Hot Core I know what annealing is but not in a reloading application could you please explain the process or could you lead me in the right direction thanks.
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Newton NH | Registered: 15 March 2006Reply With Quote
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thry this for annealing info...

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tp.../534100963#534100963


------------------------------------
The trouble with the Internet is that it's replacing masturbation as a leisure activity. ~Patrick Murray


"Why shouldn`t truth be stranger then fiction?
Fiction after all has to make sense." (Samual Clemens)

"Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt".



 
Posts: 2535 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 20 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks Ol' Joe.

By the way 1in10, you can increase the Neck Tension by reducing the size of the Expander if need be. Just remove it from the Die, measure the diameter closely, spin it in some 1200grit sandpaper or Crocus Cloth(?grit), remeasure and replace it in the Die.

It is a good idea to have a "New" proper size Expander on hand before you do this just in case you get a bit too aggressive. You can get them at any good Gun Shop for your Dies.
---

However, you really may not need to do a thing and here is how to find out.

Measure the Overall Cartridge Length of one cartridge(the Test Cartridge) and write it down. Put that cartridge in the magazine "First" and then top off the magazine. Fire all the cartridges except for the last one(first one in). Then reload the magazine and repeat the above five times or so.

This time remove the Test Cartridge and remeasure the Overall Cartridge Length. If it is the same as when you started, there is no need to reduce the size of the Expander.
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I'm not sure now that I've thought about it that Annealing will help you. The reason being that Case Life in a semi-auto can be rather short. This is because of the Case stretching at the Pressure Ring which is called Insipient Case Head Separation(ICHS).

You absolutely positively need to use the "L-shaped" Feeler gauge to check for the ICHS. Make it by taking a pair of side cutters and "nip off" the end of a Paper Clip so you have a small Chisel Tip on the wire. Then put a 90deg bend in the wire about 1/16" back from the tip so it is now "L-shaped".

Run the Feler Gauge all the way inside the case and drag the Feeler up the case wall where the Pressure Ring is located. If you feel a "groove" on the inside of the case - trash it.

Actually, you should section one when you feel the groove so you can see what is going on inside the case.

If you have a Speer Manual, I can tell you which page to look at to see the Pressure Ring on the outside of the case.
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Hey Ol' Joe, Do you think Annealing will help him since it is a semi-auto? Or do you think case life will be so short that it just isn't worth the effort?
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Hey Ol' Joe, Do you think Annealing will help him since it is a semi-auto? Or do you think case life will be so short that it just isn't worth the effort?


HotCore I really can`t say.
I have very little experiance with annealing. I tried it once, burned my finger, remembered what my mama told me about playing with fire, and started trashing cases after 10/12 fireings reguardless if they were worn or not.

Annealing may get him some more life if his brass isn`t being worked excessivly in the lower body. The annealing doesn`t do anything for head seperation problems that I`m aware of. Semi-autos can have some fairly loose chambers, stretching may be occuring. I "think" annealing works best when useing neck sized fire formed cases.
As far as improving accuracy of his loads, I can only say try it and see, but I have doubts he will notice a difference.


------------------------------------
The trouble with the Internet is that it's replacing masturbation as a leisure activity. ~Patrick Murray


"Why shouldn`t truth be stranger then fiction?
Fiction after all has to make sense." (Samual Clemens)

"Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt".



 
Posts: 2535 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 20 January 2001Reply With Quote
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