Without getting into a discussion of what lube you use, what do you do to your cases after sizing?

Usually I will size and decap my brass and then tumble and clean primer pockets before loading. Wiping the cases with a rag after is just too time consuming.

and FYI, I use Midway minute lube on large rifle cases, and Hornady one shot on smaller cases and pistol cases and have never had a stuck case using either.

I did stick a couple using the old RCBS grease and pad and often got grease dents.

Either way, to me, leaving any lube on the case is a no-no.

What do you guys do?

I have used pads with RCBS sticky lube on it, I have used Lee, non sticky, and I now (for the past 20 years or so) use Hornady lube in the tub, and apply it with my fingers. I like that way best. Best control of how much you put on and where.
I clean off with 409 on a paper towell.
Of course for pistol, I use carbide dies.

I use Hornady One Shot, ensuring that I spray 3 sides, at about a 45% angle to the holding block, about 6-8" from the shells, ensuring it sprays into the inside of the neck, as well as the outside of the case.

After sizing, I wipe the case of excess lube, clean primer pockets, trim and chamfer necks, and then tumble them in walnut hull/rouge media for at least an hour.

I trim my cases if needed. I inspect the brass for any flaws in the web,body or neck.
If I have reloaded the cases four times prior,I will anneal the brass.

I use either RCBS case lube 2 on a pad (for less than 50 cases) or I use 100% bees wax applied with fingers for large amounts of cases. I wipe this off with a clean rag and don't give it a second thought.
I tried One Shot lube a few years ago, got the only stuck case I've ever had and ceased using it.
I have in the past tumbled before and after sizing, but only tumble before sizing these days.

Cheers.

I wipe off the Imperial wax with a micro fibre cloth, this type of cloth cleans better but it's still tedious work. Mostly I only neck size to avoid the whole case lubing process.

1) universal decaping die to decap.
2) clean primer pockets with a primer pocket uniformed tool it is the best tool for this job.
3) Tumble clean to polish cases or ultrasonic clean. Mostly I use the ultrasonic cleaner. Either way the cases still need to be rinced off and water shaken out and air dried for a day.
4) Neck size with Lee neck sizing die
5) Prime I have used all methods but now mostly use an RCBS universal hand priming tool.
6) Powder charge RCBS Chargemaster
7) Bullet seat with a micrometer style seating die.
8) Crimp with LEE factory crimp die.
9) Inspect inspect inspect at every step when ever I'm handling a case I'm always looking for defects.

quote:

Without getting into a discussion of what lube you use, what do you do to your cases after sizing?

I use RCBS case lube with the pad. After resizing I clean the primer pockets, check the over all length (trim if needed), run them through the tumbler with untreated walnut shell to clean all the lube off of them, then reload them.

On the other hand, if I'm not going to reload them for a while, I clean the primer pocket, check the over all length (trim if needed), then run them through the ultra-sonic and then through the walnut shells. I'll prime them and stick them in zip-lock bags until I need them.

99% of the time I use the RCBS pad and their lube then wipe off the cases with a towel after resizing. When the towel gets to greasy it gets washed.
Only time I do something different is when sizing 375 Ruger cases then I hand apply Imperial.

I don't lube cases I'll be resizing in my neck sizer dies, except, perhaps, the inside of the case neck to ease passage of the expander ball.

For FL, I use the RCBS pad. But I only lube every fourth case using the pad (I lube case 1, skip 2 and 3, lube case 4 etc.. I coat the other cases (2 and 3) with lube I've picked up on my fingers from handling those other gooey puppies. (I do not lube the outside of the case necks.)

If I've used any lube at all, I put the cases in a bowl, spray aggressively with 409, add hot water, and agitate. I'll let them sit for a half hour or so, then dump the solution and rinse several times before laying them out to dry.

When the cases are dry, I'll measure, trim and chamfer if necessary.

There was once a time when I deburred my flash holes and used a primer pocket uniformer to clean and square-up my primer pockets, but I don't bother with that anymore. I can't tell the difference in accuracy between doing so and not, which probably reflects primarily on my shooting talents rather than the benefits of a greater attention to case preparation detail.

I use rcbs lube and a pad. after I resize, I drop the cases in a tumbler for a while. that cleans off the lube, a lot of the crud inside the case and the primer pockets.

1. Decap with universal decap die
2. Run for 30 minutes in Hornady ultrasonic cleaning machine/solution
3. Clean any powder residue off of neck with steel wool/brillo pad
4. Rinse in warm water
5. Blow out both ends of each piece of brass with 100 PSI air; let set overnight in warm, dry room
6. Clean resizing die
7. Use RCBS spray lube and pad; roll lightly; twist mouth on pad
8. Resize
9. Trim if necessary
10. Chamfer mouth in/out and use wire brush
11. Clean primer pocket with cardbid uniforming tool
12. Run in Hornady ultrasonic machine/solution for 20 minutes with heat
13. Run 30 minutes without heat
14. Rinse cases with warm water
15. Blow dry both ends with 100 PSI air
16. Let set 48+ hours in warm dry room
17. Reload

1) Deprime
2) Wet tumble
3) Resize - Rifle = Imperial Sizing Wax
Handgun = none
4) Corncob tumble
5) Trim - if needed
6) Prime
7) Complete loading

Doug

Imperial Sizing Wax. Simple easy to apply easy to take off.
1. Deprime, resize with Imperial Sizing Wax.
2. Trim with WFT II (Worlds Finest Trimmer II)
3. Clean in ultrasonic cleaner (Hot Tap water, teaspoon Lemi Shine, 1 drop of dish soap.) This cleans inside and out along with primer pockets.
4. Rinse and Dry.
5. Prime and Reload.
6 Admire your work!

I have used the Hornady One Shot spray on bottleneck rifle cases for quite a while, can't remember what I used before that. I have stuck a few cases over the years; I would just use an RCBS stuck case remover to get the brass out of the die.

Lately, though, I haven't seen HOS around here lately so have been using Cabela's name brand case lube in the spray bottle. Not a fan - while it is easier to run the cases through the die, the lube dries on the cases to where it is a pain to remove (maybe I should re-tumble after sizing?).

Hearing the votes for Imperial Sizing Wax, I am going to give that a try.

1. Lube with Lee Case Sizing Lubricant using fingers on case body and bore-mop inside neck.
2. Size and deprime
3. Clean primer pockets
4. Measure and trim if needed (trim with Lee trim tool if one made)
5. While in Lee shafted case holder in my drill...chamfer then spin in microfiber cloth to clean lube off/polish
6. Prime
7. Measure powder with RCBS chargemaster
8. Seat bullet
9. Crimp with LFC die

STP
Just a little bit. Keep it covered or sealed and a can will last 5 or 10 years or longer. I threw an old pop top can out last year that you couldn't read the writing on the can anymore, it was so old I felt guilty, probably 12 or 15 years old.
Messy but it works.

I agree that attempting to wipe case lube off manually is both tedious and somewhat ineffective.

So when it is necessary to lube my cases I will tumble them for several hours to remove the lube (and restore the shine). HOWEVER, "gunk" will sometimes coat the necks inside (usually near the base), so I use a brass bore brush chucked in a drill to clean the insides of the necks after tumbling.

I've been using Lee Precision case lube as it is not oil based thereby making it easier to clean. Then I prime the cases and then to a vibratory cleaner. With the primers in place the flash hold does not get clogged with the small cleaning media pieces. Then to powder, wads (if needed), and the projectile.
We all do it differently and I've been doing it this way for 30+ years and it works for me.
Cal