Which do you prefer? I am looking for accuracy, the loads are only for 1 rifle. I need to puchase dies for new caliber and don't know which to buy. All of my other dies are full length, but I load for more than 1 rifle. What is your opinion on type and brand? Thanks

I haven't been reloading to long compared to some of the others. Up until recently I used Lee dies. Last year I started buying the Redding deluxe sets. They have both full-length and neck sizing dies for about $45 a set. I shoot a Remington 700 and I don't think I'd gain anything by using the more expensive competition dies. Hope this helps.

If the fired cases from the rifle are concentric, then neck sizing will help both accuracy and case life. I only do that for paper, though. All my hunting rounds get the shoulder bumped back to allow room for dust/dirt/whatever and still chamber easily.

For that I use the Redding competition shell holders and the standard Redding FL sizer die. The good thing about the Redding competition shell holders is they work for all cases with the same base.

I always buy the 3 die set because I neck size my practice rounds. I prefer Redding, but the last set I got was RCBS, and they were fine.

Don

I suggest that you get full length dies and partial resize. This entails setting the dies so that they barely touch the shoulder of the case. This will work in applications where brass from one rifle is reloaded to be used in the same rifle. The problem with either neck resizing or partial resizing is that often the resulting cartridges will not chamber easily. This especially true if the loads are strong or the cartridges are reloaded a number of times. It might not be appropriate where swift easy chambering is important.

Thanks for the help. I'll look for the three die set and try both. I had not considered the ease of chambering issue, but that would be a concern on a hunting trip.

If you buy both FL and neck dies, then your bases will be covered. Actually, though, the only reason to have a neck die is if your chamber is large enough that the FL die engages the case body before the neck is sufficiently sized. Otherwise, a FL die backed off of the shoulder does the same job as a neck die.

Some guns will chamber smoothly and reliably with neck sizing only; others require partial resizing. Screw the die all the way down and full length size only if your gun requires it for reliable chambering.

And remember: For hunting loads, whether neck, partial, or full length sized, run EVERY single round through your chamber to make sure you have no problems.

FWIW, there are a number of "poor men's solutions". For example, I started shooting a 280, but don't own any 280 dies. Use my 7-mag neck sizer and seater. (Before the flames start, the worst group last night (new brass) was 1.62"). It's not the best solution, and I'll end up with a number of dies for it, eventually. Another cheap-skate solution is to get a universal neck sizer from Hornady -- such as the 30 cal or 7 mm.

Finally, if you are interested in neck sizing, take a look at a collet die (either the Lee == there's that cheapskate again== or the Redding. Lubeless loading. JMO, Dutch.

Hello,
You will need both. Necksize only for a while, and segregate them some way. For instance, you can get some markers and colorcode the heads, like maybe green for the Remington, black for the Browning, Red for the Winchester, or whatever. This may mean buying more brass for a given caliber, but it is worth it. Then after a while of neck sizing only, you will find that they get hard to chamber. At this point run them through the FL die, trim, prep, inspect, and start over.

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Joe M

One of the biggest factors in accuracy is also the seater, make sure it's aligning everything up square...

FL is fine if you're just shooting and reloading. Neck sizing is for those who sort their brass by lot, weigh it, weigh bullets, individually weigh charges.

Uniform primer pockets, neck trim, case length trim and polish, de-burr flash hole . . .

You full length size new brass, then shoot in the rifle and neck size. After three to five loads, you anneal the neck of the brass.

I'f that's what you want to do, and are striving for accuracy, then a neck die and a competition seating die are a good idea.

If you're just shooting, or shooting an auto-loader (like my AR), then you can pick-up brass off the ground, FL size, and not worry about that last 0.002 MOA.

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I set my full-length dies up so they just "bump" the shoulder of my brass...moves the shoulder back about 0.002". Use a felt tip pen (I use red) and color the neck and shoulder of your brass. Run the lubed case into the die and see how far down the neck the die rubs off the red. Remark the neck and adjust your die down a bit and try it again. Keep doing this until it just "kisses" the shoulder. The Stoney-Point tool and a good set of calipers makes it easy. Remember to relube or your case will get stuck.

Say, D B:

I usually just watch the coloration change in the lubrication line to accomplish what you do with your red marker, but as eyes age, your marker trick sounds much easier and more reliable. I'll be trying it with my next batch.

Of course with "unknown" brass, I use a similar progressive sizing method, but let the resistance of the bolt as the resized hull is chambered be my guide as to how far down to screw the sizer. I go until I have "barely detectable" resistance to bolt closure as compared to "no resistance" with FL sized brass. This gives you minimum brass workage and the best chamber fit possible (with brass that has not previously been fired in that particular chamber.)