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I am looking for info to load a Rem 742 woodsmaster autoloader .243 in excellent condition. Primarily for harvesting deer at short to medium ranges . Also need tips for avoiding related autoloader malfunctions that may occur with some reloads......Thanks.....Hutt | ||
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I use smallbase die and a lee crimp die. Standard die set may work but you need to size the brass enough so it will feed properly. Dont over load it high pressures will cause problems with the function, deer load 87gr up through 110gr i use imr4350, Or H4831sc. loaded to around 2900 to 3100 feet / sec. | |||
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A small-base die will size the base down .001" more than a standard die. The base will still be larger than new. Make sure you have adequate headspace, something like .005" so the bolt will close easily. Steer clear of magazine length. Stay at least .020" short of it. | |||
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I reloaded a Remington 742 in 30/06 caliber for a few years. Keep the loads around factory and you won't have any problems. To low or to high will cause problems with action and cause jamming. I shot with the bullets same as factory rounds fits in the clip with out any problems. I have shot a few a bit longer and they worked ok, but factory length works best on bullet seating and factory loading . Good lucjk and don't forget to keep the chamber real clean. | |||
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My self I used a standard full length sizing die and had no trouble. | |||
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Hey Hutt, Looks like good info above. I always prefered a Bullet with a Cannelure for a semi-auto. In this situation perhaps a 100gr Hornady Interlock. Trim the cases to the proper length, Chamfer and Deburr. Do Seating and Crimping in separate steps. Set the Seating Stem to Seat the Bullet so the Cannelure is "almost" out of sight. Crank the Seating Stem up and screw the Seating Die in so it just touches the Casemouth. Lower the Ram and screw the Seating Die in 1/4 turn more, jam the Lock Nut down and Crimp away. Most important of all is to keep the Chamber spotless. Since you "normally" clean the barrel from the muzzle, as the brush enters the chamber it "flings" powder residue and trash in every direction. As you run the Patch down the barrel, when it reaches the chamber, it WILL NOT open wide enough to wipe the chamber clean. You will need to clean it through the Ejection Port or remove the barrel so it can be cleaned from the rear. Hoppe's makes a " T " handle with a nylon shaft just for cleaning through the Ejection Port and it is great. I also use a home-made one out of a piece of rubber gas line with a Jag jammed in it. Put a "Spent Case" in the Chamber prior to cleaning from the barrel and let the Brush fling trash into it. And be sure to use a Tapered Muzzle Protector (somebody help me with the REAL name) so you don't bugger up the muzzle. You will still need to clean the Chamber, but there will be less trash in it to get out. Retain that Spent Case in your Cleaning Kit for future cleaning. | |||
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Check the inside raceways the 742 have a rep for chipping them out. I gun store owner showed me this years ago. Every 742 I have check that had more then a couple hundred round through it had this trouble. | |||
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Great tip guys. I have 742 in 30-06 and .243wcf. I have read where the powder to use for 30-06 is 4350 (supposed to work great in Garand). Would a faster powder be better for the .243wcf and which one (I am thinking 4064 or 4320) I read where you should also stay away from slow powder in autoloader as they may damage mech. Also I have alway wondered where you can get a wrench or thin wall socket to remove the takedown nut on 742 James | |||
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All you need to do is Full length resize, never had to use smallbase dies for an auto, I'm sure Remington gave you a nonmatch chamber. I usually use a grain less than max with H4350 with autos, in your case that'd be 39grs. for a 100gr. bullet. Jay | |||
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