I've tried using the scrape the inside of the case for signs of case seperations with a sharp pin etc, but I can't
say that I can really feel any difference.
Please share your methods. Is there a better way of doing this than the old scrape and feel method.
Any advise would be appreciated.
thanks in advance
robz

Scraping is about the best way to check for potential case head separations. Make sure you are running the point all the way to the base and up about a 1/4 of the way of the case. This way you will not miss the bump. Be sure to rotate the case after each pass of the point because case head separations tend to be more apparent on one side. Try running the point over the area at varying speeds. I find that a somewhat fast pace tends to make the separation point more noticeable.

You can wait until you notice a shiny ring partially or completely around the case head (about where your FL sizer stops sizing), but to me, this is too late. The potential for a separated head in this situation is high and could potentially leave you with the head extracted and the case in the chamber. Basically you are screwed until you can remove the body of the case. On the other side of it, all that pressure escapes and has to go somewhere. Most likely the gas will be partially vented into the eyes.

Turok

Put a cutting wheel in your dremel and sacrifice a case.

The wire method works, but it takes a little experience to get the feel, as well as a sharp point. FWIW, Dutch.

I have used a bent paper clip with a rounded end, because I have been afraid that a sharp end would catch. Since I have never used a sharp end, I don't know that my fear is well founded.

Nowadays, I use an altered mini-Maglite. The ones that take 2 AA cells are probably fine, but I happen to use one that takes two AAA cells. I soldered a piece of insulated wire to each lead of the bulb, said wire being the same diameter as that of the leads on the bulb. I then twisted the two wires together for some distance (6" may be handiest, perhaps a bit less), then cut the wires (to 6") and stripped probably a quarter inch of insulation from each wire. I insert each wire end into where the bulb goes, and now I have a very bright light which can easily illuminate the inside of the case without obstructing my view. I simply inspect every rifle case visually every time.

A sharp edge or point gives the best feel for checking the indentation.And I use a nut pick with an edge sharpened
onto it in the direction of the curve of the end of the pick.Being stiff gives better feel than wire or paper
clips.Once you feel an indent, is is always best to section
case once in a while to correlate the feel, with the visual and actual measured thinning.Ed.

My wife had a spare otoscope (ear-looker-inner) from her practice that works well for checking cases. Look on ebay. There are some inexpensive models out there. You don't need the fancy Welch-Allyn with all the bells and whistles.

I had the same "issue" as to feel when use a pin or paper clip, etc. I purchased an RCBS Case Master which among other things will give you an indication of case head separation. It has a "hooked" arm you put in the case an set the guage against the case. It is more accurate in showing deviations ie case head separation as is actually measures the inside of the case. This is a very useful tool. You can look on the RCBS web site and get information. They will also send you a manual on it so you can see what it will do...or at least they did this for me.

Other manufacturers make similiar tools, however, the RCBS tool seems to offer more flexibility and will measure large cases.

Many thanks.
robz

Recono,
What is it that you are looking for on the inside ? Is it an actual crack? If not , what are the signs to look for?
robz

The beginning of separation shows a slight depression, a dip in the road if you will. It's more pronounced on one side so you have to look all the way around. The actual beginning of the crack is hard to spot because it's covered with soot from the burnt powder. I tried inspection with a borescope and didn't care for it. Too hard to spot anything, takes too long, and there is a much better way.

I think that high tech tool, the straightened and bent paper clip is by far the best means of inspection. I use a dental pick. These are usually available free from your friendly dentist, but also available at gun shows.

Bob338,

Sorry, you posted while I was composing . Good description.

Jim

To sum up the correct posts above one can feel inside the case with a wire bent at the end into a tiny right angle hook. It does not matter much if it's sharp or not. Just file an edge and get used to it.

Turn the case as mentioned above as they are always worse on one side. Cases can be used over and over with some thinning. Hopefully you have corrected the problem however as excessive headspace can wreck a case fast.

The thing to do when you get concerned over a insipiant separation is to cut that case in half. They usually don't look all that bad when you can see them like that. Now you have a standard.

This is particulary a good idea with belted cases as they take a wack on the first shot and hang in there, if sized right, and last for maybe ten shots after that. No sense throwing them out as they will all get stretched some at first.

I made a feeler wire from a section of a coat hanger. When I loose it I will make another.

To be honest about it, over the years, I have had so few seperations that I don't worry too much about it. Unless you are setting your shoulders back every time you reload or reworking your brass excessively in some other manner, I think you'll start having neck splits before you get case seperations.
I buy my brass in lots of 100 or more and the lot is considered as a unit in that all of the brass in the unit will be fired before I start over again. They are all trimmed at the same time, f/l resized at the same time, etc. When I start getting frequent neck splits, I chunk the whole batch and start with another. If I were to get a case seperation, I'd take a couple of other cases from that lot and split them lengthwise and see if the seperation was a an isolated event or if I needed to trash the whole batch.

Excellent point! Providing you don't shoot belted magnums. Many who do shoot the belted magnums experience case separation in as few as 3 reloads. Coaxing many more reloads than just a few, can be a bit of a chore and requires constant checking.

I've NEVER experienced even the beginning of a case separation in ANY non-belted case. In the belted cases the problem is, there is no standard for the measurement of the case head to the shoulder since the case headspaces on the belt. The gap between the case and the chamber shoulder can be as big as .030", and seldom less than .014". Never have I ever been able fireform a belted case in such a manner as to prevent that initial stretch in the body of the case near the web which is the beginning of what will ultimately be the separation. For those reading this thread who aren't concerned with belted cases, it's really a reach to think they will separate. I don't recall EVER checking a non-belted case as it just doesn't happen without serious headspace problems.

Here are a couple of pictures of a case head separation. This was a rimmed case (obviously ) from a double, but the brass was undersized and the chamber was larger than the shoulder area of the dies. This occurred after the first reload. One of these cases actually separated completely, leaving the front part in the chamber on ejection.



With properly dimensioned brass I have been getting several reloads with no signs of incipient separation (I also backed off as far as possible on the sizing die to leave the shoulder as large as it could be under the circumstances).





The first pic shows how the brass thins in the area of the incipient separation. The second shows the groove or trough around the inside of the case a little better.



Jim

robz,

Others have already answered well. Note that they have reminded that we must look at the whole circumference.

I have not had any case thinning that I can see, much less separation. I do not use belted cases.

BTW, the wire that I use is a single strand from telephone cable. It is the right size in both copper (fits bulb socket) and insulation (thin).

Check at any decent sized drug store. They usually have cheap models for looking in kids' ears that work well. Mine cost less than $10.

Not relevant I suppose but a shooter that is also an X-ray tech sent me radiographs of .30 Herrett brass. The head separations were easily seen. If you are not familar with case head separations scrounge some fired .303 British brass and use a saber saw on it. It is always soemwhat separated even though not always visible on the outside.

Ed