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Okay. Finally on to solving my problem. It comes down to having to neck turn my brass. I shoot a .260 and Remington Brass stinks. While at the range, a friend told me to order a Neck Reaming Die from RCBS instead of getting into this neck turning process. I do not know anyhting about either. The question is, Is the inside neck reaming the way to go? If there is a high spot on the brass does it just take off brass in that one spot? Is neck reaming as concentric as outside neck turning? If your opinion is outside neck turning, what are all the tools that I will need? Ijust hate the idea of having to neck turn for a hunting rifle. I could understand turning for a BR but a .260? Anyway, I can't personally live with 1 1/2" groups at 100yds. It's just me. I enjoy shooting this gun but I also like small groups. After indexing all rounds the groups were under 1". Mostly staying just above 3/4". That I can live with. Thanks for the advice. | ||
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While I have RCBS inside neck reaming dies and reamers and neck turning tools somehow I don't think that's the first thing that I would work on if the rifle is a sporter. How much do the necks or seated bullets run out now? And what is the neck wall thickness variance? What I am saying that it's usually the rifle that makes 1.5" groups and not the ammunition. By the way how do factory loads shoot? | |||
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A neck reaming die holds the neck just as a neck sizing die would. The hand held reamer goes in and touches what gets in the way of the designed thickness of the neck. If the thickness of the neck is within tolerance, the reamer won't touch anything but the high parts of the inside of the neck, if that. Neck reaming dies are typically used in forming brass where the neck of the newly formed case is going to end up somewhere on the body of the parent case from which it is being formed. That part is usually quite thick. Someone recently posted something about sizing down from 308 brass to 260 brass. If that was you, you may be disappointed in the neck reaming die. It's highly unlikely that the 308 brass is going to thicken very much at all and I doubt that the reamer of a reaming die will even touch it. Buy anyway, go ahead and learn the hard way. | |||
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quote:Neck Run out varies from .003 to .007. Wall thickness variance is about .003. Once I have indexed my brass, high spot in the same position, the groups are just under .750. Haven't shot factory loads. | |||
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That is a severe variance in neck wall thickness. Your right that you need to do something. Get a neck turning device and use it right. Varmint Al's site has some good advice on how to turn necks. One of the necessary things is a tight fitting arbor. Most arbors in my experiance fit fired cases and thus the desireable tight fit of the arbor can vary. You have got to start somewhere. I use my Foster neck turning attachement. Perhaps there are better systems and I am willing to learn also. Have you tried necking down 308 Win match brass or Lapua cases? The 260 Remington is used for match shooting. Look for a site that concentrates on formal target shooting. | |||
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AirborneB - See the topic "More neck turning" from this reloading portion of the AR site - look back to around 3/6/03 - go to the bottom where "Art S." gives a useful explanation that may help you. There are several others - use the "Search" feature - search for "neck turning". Try also "benchrest.com" - it's a bit more technical, but informative. | |||
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