99 times out of a hundred I would agree with everything the previous posters have said, and say go with the RCBS RockChucker Kit.

However...you state you want to load 375 H&H, and 416 Rigby. Those are going to be a real tight squeeze in a RockChucker. I just measured my Rockchucker II and the opening between the frame and shell holder is only 3.375 inches.

You might want to look at a Redding Big Boss or a Redding UltraMag. They advertise the frame openings as 4+ inches.

Also I have heard nothing but good about these presses.

They also have kits available, though I don't know what all is included. I didn't look that hard.

You can check them out here.

No doubt, any of the good quality presses will work just fine for you. It is not a very complex piece of machinery.

After I posted my comment about the new Lee Cast press, I went to www.midwayusa.com, and read the user reviews on it. I think that the same trip would be worth your time.

I was so impressed with the reviews that I ordered one. Since it was my birthday, Midway gave me a little discount, so I ended up paying $54 for it. And I already have a perfectly satisfactory press. I cannot imagine how any of the other presses are in any way superior to the new Lee steel press. It is surely as strong and precise as any of them, and it will take standard dies, or it will take the oversize dies for 50 BMG.

I think the difference is how the cam is setup. I have the Lee sitting next to my RCBS. I can assure you the RCBS is built better, smoother, and requires less effort. But also I do a lot of wildcatting which requires chaning the shape of the shell, so it demands a little more from the press.

Kory

You have the new steel Lee press?

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1092756991.4867=/html/catalog/classic.html

Here's a newbie reloaders guide that I and some others came up with on the NAHC BBS.
--------------------------

BASIC RELOADER RULES & REQUIREMENTS

1. Do you have the patience to do detailed work away from distractions, (TV, Children, guests)?
2. Do you have a secure area that can be dedicated strictly to a loading bench?
3. Do you thoroughly understand what goes on inside a cartridge when you pull the trigger?
4. Are you mechanically inclined? In other words can you understand and follow instructions exactly, to make needed adjustments to equipment? Do know how to use measurement tools such as calipers and micrometers?
5. Read the front sections of several reloading manuals. I suggest one manual, printed by a company that sells reloading equipment AND bullets. The other one should be by a company that sells only powder. Case in point Hornady then Hodgdon. After reading and understanding the �HOW TO� section in those manuals, find someone who already loads to show you how and talk you through a box of shells. Better yet find a NRA Metallic/Shotshell Reloading instructor and take a basic reloading class. See links below for locating an instructor.
6. Never be in a hurry. If you are pressed for time, this is when a mistake will be made.
7. Do not under any circumstances smoke, eat or drink, especially alcoholic beverages. The reasons are obvious, but I�ll state them anyway. Smokeless powder burns at a very high temperature; it makes a dandy accelerant to start a fire. Drinking causes loss of motor skills and judgment.
8. Wash hands thoroughly when you are through. You are dealing with lead in many forms when handling bullets and primers.
9. Walk before you run. Buy a single stage press to start out with. The progressives are neat and useful when doing large quantities of ammo. You will always have uses for the single stage loader for special loads later.
10. Stay with the basics at first. The tools for neck turning, flash hole uniforming, primer pocket uniforming and checking concentricity will be useful after you get some experience.
11. To start with, stay in the mid-range of the suggested loads for medium power levels. Save the maximum loads for when you have more experience.
12. Buy the best equipment you can afford. It will last a lifetime; the cheap stuff will wear out and need replacing.
13. Have ONLY the bullets, powder, primers and empties on the table that you are loading at that time. Put everything away as soon as you are done, in a separate place.
14. The only stupid question is one that doesn�t get asked. If you�re not sure, ask somebody. Use common sense, logic is a great tool for a Reloader.
15. Maintain a log of all loads developed with the test results. Label all boxes with the load data and date of the load.
16. Every Step is an inspection point.
17. The last thing you do before the bullet goes in " Look in every case to verify the powder charge".

Links for Reloading help and instructors

http://www.sierrabullets.com/ Bullet company, very good ballistic support group.
http://www.speer-bullets.com Bullet company
http://www.nosler.com/ Bullet company
http://www.hornady.com/ Bullet company
http://www.barnesbullets.com Bullet company
http://www.hodgdon.com Powder company
http://www.lapua.com VihtaVuori Powders
http://www.bluepress.com Dillon Loaders
http://www.mayvl.com/ Mec loaders
http://ww.sinclairintl.com/ Precision Reloading and Shooting specialist
http://www.lymanproducts.com All Lyman Products.
http://www.shooting-hunting.com Great hunting and shooting site with list of instructors
http://www.mynra.com/ NRA with links to NRA certified instructors








Basic steps to reloading. This is a short edited version from the "NRA GUIDE TO RELOADING".

There are 17 steps of which most are for both rifle and pistol and one for pistol only. This is will mark with an * .
1. Inspect cases,
2. Clean Cases
3.Organize cases by batchs
4.Select proper shell holder
5.Insert and set up sizing die
6. Lubricate cases
7.Resize and deprime cases
8. Measure case length
9.Trim cases
10 Deburr and Chamfering
11.Clean Primer Pocket
12.Expand Case mouth (*)
13.Prime Cases
14.Measure powder chargeand charge cases
15.Check powder charge in case
16.Seat bullet in case.
17. Identify the reloaded cartridges (Mark the box etc.)

"Railroad rails ready to be transformed into the Classic Cast "

"Rigid cast iron construction in a classic "O" design for maximum strength. Baked powder coating is durable and makes the Classic Cast a handsome addition to any reloading bench."

So which is it steel or cast iron? Railroad rails are made of steel, but the add says it,(the press), is made of cast iron, do they really know?

"Powerful compound linkage with positive travel stops prevents toggle or "cam over."


I prefere cam over, so I can tell if I'm taking all the spring out of the shelholder and dies when full length resizing. A positive stop is just that a stop, no feel, herder to adjust.

I started out with the Lee Anniversary kit paying $50 for it. It came with the Lee manual. I went to Gander Mt and got some loading supplies like powder, primers, bullets. Read (studied) the manual and was makeing .458 Win. Mag & 375 H&H loads that worked great and for only the $50 start-up fee. After 4 years I am still useing the same kit and look forward to the buying the new Lee Classic press someday. But the old Challanger press work fine. I recommend the Lee Anniversary Kit to new reloaders. Get a friend that reloads to come over and help you get started, read the manual and you will be loading great ammo in no time. You may find you don't like the time and effort of reloading and the $50 investment will end up for sale. I have stayed in it and only added some more manuals and more dies. Start with an inexpensive Lee Kit.

Grizz,

Thanks to you as well as everyone else for your input. Lots to digest. Looks like my Christmas wish list will be comprised of nothing but reloading equpiment! Thanks again to all.

Usually you get into reloading not only to get ammo at a lower cost, but also because you will be shooting (and experimenting) more for greater ammo performance. The calibers you mentioned are pretty much big game calibers that also are heavy recoil, so I wonder are you really planning on doing a LOT of shooting with these? You have to shoot a lot to justify setting up to reload. I'd also think most commercial ammo is good enough for the accuracy requirements for these calibers.

Usually the smaller calibers are more reloaded due to their greater usage and milder recoil. Varmint and target shooters shoot a lot - the calibers you mentioned aren't for this type of shooting.

Reloading is fun, but sitting at a bench getting pummeled by a .416 doesn't sound like much fun to me!

No one here seems to like the Dillon stuff, why is that? I am doing my research now to get back into reloading, I have a shotshell setup that I haven't used in 6 years, but was considering a 550 or 650 from Dillon, going to be reloading pistol & rifle (9mm, .40, and 7mm-08 to start with).

Why is the RCBS so popular here?

Thanks for your input!

F6Hawk:
I think the reason you don't see Dillon promoted in these threads is because most of them (like this one) are about getting started in reloading. A progressive is not the way for a beginner to get his feet wet.
I'm sure if you posted a thread asking for opinions on the best progressive presses for pistol and rifle, Dillon would way up there on the list.

I do bullet casting as well as reloading. I say buy RCBS for almost everything. Many cuss it,but I think the Lee bottom pour furnace for casting is a good buy. If you can find a Belding & Mull powder measure,get it. I have read lots of reports of certain powders not working in a measure. I have never found a powder that my B&M didn't handle. I also like my Thumblers Tummler for cases---not a must but I like it. The rest of the equipment RCBS.

You can count me as one who uses Dillon equipment. I started out 33 years ago with a RCBS reloaders special single stage press--no one offered kits back then. I still use it for the 416 Rem mag. I've never used a Rockchucker but the multitudes of satisfied users over the decades can't be wrong. It is a good press that most likely will last more than one lifetime. I didn't buy one when it was time to upgrade because it still is a single stage press. That's why I bought a Dillon AT500. It is single stage but with a turret and interchangeable toolheads. It is fully upgradeable to the progressive RL550B, which I have done as more money became available. Actually, the need arose when I found out that I couldn't load the bottle-necked 357SIG on my Square Deal B.

Call Dillon Toll Free 800-762-3845 MST. Pick their brains!



Cartridge reloading is not a daunting task. But you must have your head screwed on straight while doing it. Not drinking a 7&7, smoking an El Producto, talking on the cell phone while watching WWF Smackdown on the tube.



Here are three of my personal preferences:

Lyman load manual--because it describes the basics very well...what is actually happening inside the chamber when you hear the 'boom' on the outside.

Metallic Cartridge Reloading, 3rd Edition.--because it is a compilation of many other load book's recipes, although it is not new enough to list the WSM family of cartriges.



Forster case trimmer--they make a streached base just for those long cases. I finally sent back the cutter head for resharpening after using it for 32 years. The bill was $8.00. Another real good company to do business with.