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At what point do yo stop deburring both inside and out?
 
Posts: 64 | Registered: 17 August 2002Reply With Quote
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I try to get a good deep bevel on the inside of the neck. Many of my rifles are .17 and small .224 calibers. A good
bevel will allow me to sit the bullet upright in the case without using my fingers while I seat it. Some of these smaller jobbies are not user friendly when it comes to bullet seating. Damn fingers get in the way. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal
 
Posts: 1866 | Location: Montreal, Canada | Registered: 01 May 2003Reply With Quote
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I only do the outside after I trim the case.

I'll touch up the inside pretty much everytime for the same reasons as Cal stated. It makes it much easier to seat a flat based bullet, and also helps prevent marring the bullet jacket as you seat it.
 
Posts: 445 | Location: Connellsville, PA | Registered: 25 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Cal:

Someone, I think its K&D, makes an inside deburring tool with a different angle that goes down inside the case mouth much further than the standard tools. Have you ever tried one of those tools? I never have but its something I keep thinking about trying. I'm curious if it works. I, too, have a lot of 17 and 22 caliber rifles and know just what you mean.

knobmtn
 
Posts: 221 | Location: central Pa. | Registered: 29 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:



Someone, I think its K&D, makes an inside deburring tool with a different angle that goes down inside the case mouth much further than the standard tools. Have you ever tried one of those tools?

knobmtn




Knobmtn, you are probably referring to the K&M deburring tool. My absolute favourite. Practically polishes the inside of the neck.



Edited to say: apparently they call the tool "Tapered Case Mouth Reamer" - now how is that for a name, a marketing tour de force! Sold here: LS&B
 
Posts: 6653 | Location: Switzerland | Registered: 11 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I had a lot of problems shaving copper off bullets with the standard angled RCBS chamfer tool. More pronounced with NBT's. I saw a thread on the internet referring to the Lyman VLD (very low drag?) chamfer tool. Midway had them on their site so I got one. Wow it works much better than the old RCBS. No more shaving copper by the abrupt edge of the chamfer. IIRC it's a 30 degree tool as opposed to 45 degrees on the RCBS.

I also only outside chamfer after trimming, only enough to remove the burr.
 
Posts: 596 | Location: Oshkosh, Wi USA | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
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What do you guys think of the RCBS 3Way Cutter? I have been thinking about getting one. Thought it might save some time.
 
Posts: 1205 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 07 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I found the three way cutter to be a perpetual pain in the rear. Too much fiddling. Might be fine for doing TONS of cases for say a big prairie dog shoot, but for accuracy minded work I went back to hand chamfer deburr. I also use the Lyman VLD chamfer widget...Can't believe I own ANYTHING made by Lyman, but there you have it...

R
 
Posts: 648 | Location: Huskerville | Registered: 22 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Quote: Knobmtn, you are probably referring to the K&M deburring tool. My absolute favourite. Practically polishes the inside of the neck.

mho:

Yep, that's it. A senior moment on my part, no doubt. You give it a good endorsment. Do you think its angle helps keep the bullet straighter in the seating process?

knobmtn
 
Posts: 221 | Location: central Pa. | Registered: 29 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Inside:
til the bullet will stand up on it's own.
Considerably more than " just breaking the edge " , but far short of making the casemouth into an effective gasket punch.

Outside:
til I cannot feel a burr from the trimming operation.
Just til it's smooth.

Travis F.
 
Posts: 204 | Registered: 26 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Just barely touch the inside edge...deep beveled inside cuts or outside cuts cause brass splitting at the neck...
 
Posts: 42314 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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fyi--I have almost all the tools mentioned above. The 3 way cutter is great tool for lots of chamfering but takes some practice getting the outside cutter adjusted to just nip off the outside ring of brass. I also own the lyman tool. It is very much at it's best if you screw it out of the wood handle and chuck it into a drill or better yet it is on my rcbs trimpro--it screwed right into one of the "stations". It's not a real "high quality" feeling tool but if you can speed it up it seems to do a much smoother job. Last but not least I also own a K&M low profile inside deburrer. This IS a high quality tool and WILL virtually "polish" the inside of the case mouth so your bullet will seat like butter.
Lately I'm experimenting with a new idea---NOT DEBURING. I've done up some loads with a lyman "m" die which has a "step" designed to open up the case mouth just slightly to make seating a Lead bullet easier. Some people on other forums are getting fantastic runnout by using this idea and then doing a light "crimp" to close up the case mouth. I've decided the light crimp really isn't necessary and as long as all shells chamber easily (and everything I've loaded this way does) the slightly oversized case mouth (about the top .010") might actually center the cartridge a little better in the chamber. Loaded ammo runnout without a sizing ball and then doing the m-die has been nothing short of fantastic--rarely a loaded round over .002" runnout. --Just some ideas--I'm going on record as saying that low runnout is not a accuracy improver in a normal hunting rifle--but unscratched bullet heals and consistant neck tension very well could be. Of course I don't condone wild runnout--say over .006" either and if you can get the numbers low without much effort it can't be bad idea!!
 
Posts: 2002 | Location: central wi | Registered: 13 September 2002Reply With Quote
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