I've just started reloading, and there a few things I haven't been able to figure out. I apologize if these have been asked here a bunch before, but I haven't been able to find them.


1. Maximum loads. Whose do you use? Which do you believe. Everywhere I look I get slightly different data.

Currently, I am developing a .30-06 load with 150 speer boatail soft point bullets. I'm using IMR 4895 powder.

The speer manual runs from 45.5 - 49.5.

IMR's website has a listing of 49.0 53.0

Worse, when I go to http://www.imrpowder.com/pdf/IMR_rifle.pdf on the same website, I get a 49.5 maximum in the section for pressures in cup, but in the section for pressures in psi I get 49.0.

I guess I should console myself that these at least are closer to my speer manual. I haven't had a chance to get other manuals and check them out yet, so I can't say what they are. It distresses me however that I am getting three different answers from a single source.

The scariest part however is that the one has it's starting load near where the others have a maximum load.

Minimum Loads:

I think I understand something about how maximum loads are worked up. They're fired through a special setup that can read the pressures. When they get to a pre-determined level, they call it good. In theory, most guns should be able to handle this pressure.

How are the minimum listings worked up? Is the maximum just reduced a set amount? If I wanted to, could I go lower? If so, How mucb? If not, why not?


Bullets:

How much difference does the bullet manufacturere make in the powder? If I get some bullets of a particular weight, do I have to get special loading data for those bullets, or can I simply go with something listed in a manual I have.

Primers:

How big of a difference do primers make? Could going from one brand of primer to another cause me problems if I'm running close to max pressure? What about if I'm running reduced loads?

Brass:
I see people talking about weighing brass. I assume this is often for accuracy. How much difference is there in the pressures generated with different types of brass? I'm currently using spent military brass. Do I have anything to be concerned about?


Those are some of the things that have been bothering me so far. I'll probably have more questions later.

Thank you in advance for helping me out.

Whoa, so many questions, but all very good ones.

Powder... I trust IMR further than Speer.

Primers... No big differnece, pick one and use it. Don't mix them.

Brass... same thing, don't mix them.

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Originally posted by Kapikui:
I've just started reloading

Welcome to the addiction!

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1. Maximum loads. Whose do you use? Which do you believe. Everywhere I look I get slightly different data.

Yep! Your gun will LIKELY be just as differnet. Take consolation that the numbers are USUALLY slightly skewed to the conservative end. Heed the oft quoted advice:"Start low and work up slowly, watching for signs of overpressure". Several websites detail these signs...but if you follow load books and use a bit of common sense, you'll be fine.

You're on the right track...look at multiple sources for load data and evaluate from there. If I find a couple that are really similar, and one that is way out, like yout Speer manual vs. IMR, throuw out the 'way out' one. 0.5 grain here and there is not critical unless you are already right at the edge of safety...3 grains is pretty significant! I trust the powder manufacturer more than bullet manufacturer, and Sierra & Nosler data above other bullet maker data.

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How are the minimum listings worked up? Is the maximum just reduced a set amount? If I wanted to, could I go lower? If so, How mucb? If not, why not?

Min loads are supposedly the lowest the powder can go and still have good ingition. Modern powder needs high pressure to burn smoothly...too little pressure from an underload and things don't work well. IMHO the minimum is more often just an economical point for the testers to work down too and stop, so as to not have to spend more time and $$$ testing loads so low that no one will ever use them. Nosler even says that they work to a max, then reduce X.X grains for other data points.

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Bullets:

How much difference does the bullet manufacturere make in the powder?

Weight is critical. Design is less so, unless you are changing from lead core to solid copper bullets, like Barnes X vs. Speer HotCore. Again, start low and work up after ANY change in components, but especially powder and bullet changes.

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Primers:

How big of a difference do primers make? Could going from one brand of primer to another cause me problems if I'm running close to max pressure? What about if I'm running reduced loads?

I like Mag primers for reduced loads...some disagree. Brand changes are of low concern, standard to mag changes are of some concern...again start low and work up.

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Brass:
I see people talking about weighing brass. I assume this is often for accuracy. How much difference is there in the pressures generated with different types of brass? I'm currently using spent military brass. Do I have anything to be concerned about?

Unless you are a benchrest shooter or have way too much spare time, forget it. Trigger time will improve your shooting a LOT more than weighing and sorting brass or bullets.

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Those are some of the things that have been bothering me so far. I'll probably have more questions later.

Thank you in advance for helping me out.

Have fun!

Another thing to remember is that sometimes the bullet makers change the load data from time to time!

Case in point, I have an older revision of the Hornady book, and it has a higher max reading in the previous edition than the current for IMR 4895 with a 150 gr bullet.

Like every one has said, start low and work up slow. Keeps you from having an explosive dissasembly (KABOOM).

First of all, Speer tests their bullets, not anyone else's. Their data is better than IMR because IMR tests with Remington bullets which are different.

A 150gr Speer is different from a Remington, Nosler, Hornady, etc. While they all behave similarly, they are not the same. Each will cause different pressures. How are they different?

1. Jacket thickness
2. Core hardness
3. Shank length

These factors affect friction and in turn pressure.

If you use Speer bullets, use Speer data, and remember that a couple of feet per second does not make any difference. It is the accuracy that matters.

The brand and type of buulet is likely the reason for the charge variation as Ralph suggested. Along with the other variations in components.
The A-Square book, "Any Shot You Want" show that they found 6,100 psi variation in the avg pressure of 6 differnt 180 gr 30 cal bullets of lead core design. Stan Watson who used to post here showed a variation of 7,300psi with 180 gr 30 cal bullets in his report on the 30-06. All else equal.
The components used are a big factor in the results you get, the bullet manufacture data is likely the best with their bullet IF all else is the same.
The powder manufactures often don`t even list the bullet used and are likely trying 3-4 different ones and reporting on the one that gave the highest pressure as their max load. The bullet you use though might not be one that they tried and could just give higher pressure yet, the reason behind working up.
The best idea of your max load is to find a published load useing the exact components you have and remembering the lot # of yours and the publishers are not the same and there is possibly some minor variation in the result you`ll get. Work Up!

Max. loads have to be worked up in EACH INDIVIDUAL FIREARM. The data in the various loading manuals & web sites is a guide. I like to choose a powder that will give me nearly a full case for the vel. level I want. The Nosler manual shows load density, the closer to 100% the better. You can either start w/ the min. load & work up or start w/ the max. load LESS 5% & work up in 1/2gr increments. Watch for pressure signs, sticky bolt very flattened primers, usually means pressure is too high, back off 1-1.5gr & shoot for groups.
Bullet make doesn't have that much effect on pressure if the weights are the same, AS LONG AS YOU ARE NOT SHOOTING MAX. LOADS. Mono bullets like the Brnes & Failsafe are the exception, they have longer bearing surfaces for the same weight. Same for primers, as long as you aren't running @ max. no problem switching brands.
You should NEVER load lower than the manuals listed starting load, detonation can occur. There are special powders & techniques to use for very low pressure loads.
Sort your brass by make & the number of times they are fired. Weighing has little effect, espescially w/ hunting loads in larger cases.
Have you read ABC's of Reloading? Good book for the beginner. Ask a lot of questions, but research the answers you get. Be safe, have fun with it.

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Ask a lot of questions, but research the answers you get

LMAO! Well put! You will also quickly find out that opinions are quite varied for this hobby...as much or more than gun choice, truck mfg. choice, religion choice, etc.

It does make for some lively debates at times...

Well, there was a fair amount of good info there. Thanks a lot everyone. I'll look into the ABC's of reloading. I think I saw that on a shelf somewhere, hut I didn't pick it up.

Mostly you've all given me some peace of mind. I got a lttle nervous when I saw the max load in one source about the same as the minimum load in another source. I guess, when in doubt I should go with the smaller one, the one less likely to make my gun go BOOM in my face (I'd really like to avoid that if I can, I suspect it would be somewhat unplesant).

Once again, thanks for helping somebody get started.

Two more points that I didn't see in the wealth of advice (all very good BTW) given here.
One, as you can see there's hardly anything most of us would rather do than talk about this stuff. If you ask around surely someone you know is a reloader and can help you get started and it's generally quite fun to work on some of this with a friend.
Two, don't worry about getting the last fps out of your loads. A game animal is not going to know the diff between 2750 and 2800fps. Likewise, targets surely don't care and accuracy is always the primary goal of reloading anyway.
You'll have a lot of fun doing this stuff and you've come to the right place for some good advice.

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less likely to make my gun go BOOM in my face

IF: Your rifle is in good condition
ANDIF: You step up loads 1 grain at a time, .5 grain as you hit max loads
YOUWILL: have sticky bolt/blown primer type pressure signs well before metal rain
BUT: sticky bolt/blown primers are well overpressure and are definately in the DANGER zone...time to back down...a healthy amount!

Hence the oft given advice to start low and work up slowly. This hobby deserves a healthy bit of caution and respect, but it is every bit as safe if one pays attention to what they are doing!

The Sierra manuals are nice and comprehensive, and I like the Nosler manual next if you don't load much pistol ammo. Have fun!