Guys, I got a box of 200g .308 A-Frames, for a gazillian dollars to load in my .300RUM.

Using H1000 and CCI 250 primer, my results was less than impressive. To make a long story short, 1.5" groups was the best I could hope for. I loaded at 3.6" which I have excellent luck with Nosler and Grand Slams.

I loaded according to H1000's recommendations of 80g to 83g. Tryed a few of each.

Any recommendations with this bullet. I can't seem to have any luck with of the Swifts. I was thinking since it was a protected point bullet, I should load deeper than the Spitzer bullets? What do ya think?

A man would go broke finding a load for this bullet.

[This message has been edited by bigcountry (edited 03-01-2002).]

I had a 45-70 Ruger #1 that wouldn't shoot them worth a damn. It loved cheap bullets, though. So I got rid of it for a 416 Mag

I couldn't get them to shoot for beans in my 300Wby either, but they worked well on a buffalo a couple months back.

A couple years ago Midway had some closeout 140 grain .277 a frames. I had a 270 wby that was pretty mediocre. I fed it those fueled by i7828 and it went into "tack driver" mode. Runs 3330 fps and shoots 3" groups at 300 yds.

This doesn't help you but I wouldn't blame the a frames. I think your gun just isn't "in tune" with that bullet. I think it's all about harmonics--one mans blessing can be anothers curse.

I've got them working in both .375 H&H and .300 WSM. Took a nilgai 3 weeks ago with the .300 using a 180 grain a-frame.

67 yard shot at 2799 fps from muzzle, recovered 117 grains but killed the critter quickly.

jeff

300 grain A-Frames shoot .5" groups out of my 375H&H with 70 grains of RL15.

200 grain A-Frames also shoot .5" groups out of my 300 Win Mag with 80 grains of H-1000.

I find them to be very accurate.

I have found the Aframes to be amoung the most accurate bullets you can shoot from a hunting rifle. Generally they shoot at least as well as a Hornady, and sometimes better.

I've tried them in 270 win, 270 wby, 7 rem, 7 stw, 280, 3006, 308, 338, and 340. Worked like a charm in all of them.

I don't like them for light game.

------------------
www.rifleshooter.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

Check your overall length. The ogive of the Swift bullets probably isn't the same as the Noslers and others. Check your loaded Nosler length to the ogive and match that length with the Swift bullet. Even so, you may have to adjust the depth more. Every bullet is going to be different.

Good Luck,
John

In case you don't know, 1.5" is entirely acceptable accuracy for a hunting load. While some guns will do better, there really aren't as many "minute of angle" rifles out there as people seem to think. And rifles in the .30 cal+ sizes that will shoot much less than 1" @ 100 yards are scarce as hen's teeth. A lot of people will shoot ONE GROUP during the lifetime of a rifle that is less than 1", and conclude that the rifle is a "sub-MOA" rifle!! As Warren Page once observed, "more 1" or smaller groups are shot with typewriters than were ever shot with a rifle". This is still true today!!

eldeguello, While 1.5MOA was acceptable for a hunting load five years ago with my rifles, after seeing your rifles produce clover leafs time after time with a particular bullet or two, you kinda expect all bullets to do that. I have had many a rifles that wouldn't produce subMOA groups. At least 30%, maybe 40%. I always sold them. I have some friends, who laugh at me cause I put so much money into finding a rifle that will produce these groups. The ironic thing is I have never took game past 200 yards. But I sure want to be ready, even if its only once in my life to be able to take a moose, or analope at 350 yards. I see your point and most what you say about a scarce factory .30 cal Mag making subMOA groups is a true statement, but there's something so satisfying about a .5" group at 200 yards. I guess a sense of accomplishment after working the brass, wieghing, trimming, deburring, etc. Makes it all worth while. Thats why I have came to the conclution, that I won't be buying factory guns again. They might have a remington action, but will have a custom barrel on with a premium stock. Looking back, I have sunk enough in some calibers to make a custom gun by selling and buying to find a good shooter.

Thanks for your guys advise. I might give them another shot. Since others have had luck. If they don't, I got Grand Slams as backups.

I agree that 1.5 is good enough, but I like it under an inch myself. One group does not a moa rifle make. I have had great success with the SAF in 375. Many sub MOA groups. Some were closer to 2. One was .03 inch. The most representative was 1.75 inches at 200. Knocks nilgai off their feet nicely. Great terminal ballistics. Good luck. Keep trying. "D"

I found the A-Frames to be slightly more accurate (and faster) than Nosler Partitions in my .375 and both printed 3-shot groups well under 1". I chose the Noslers because they didn't plate copper quite as much as the A-Frames.

I have only used the Swifts in my .338 Win and their 500 gr. .458's in a Lott, but accuracy has been no problem at all. If I do my part, the .338 will stay in 1", just barley. The Lott just blows a big hole.

Steve