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After I get my H.S. Precision stock in for my Model 70 '06', I'd like to try these 168MKs and AMAXs I've got sitting around, like to stick with small grain stick powders made by Hodgdon and Alliant. I've always liked H4350 for Hornadys 165s, and Varget for the 150NBTs. Anyone got a good recipe for the 168MK and AMAX bullets for a turdy ot 6? If not, guess I'll try RE15, Varget and H4350. Thanks, Jay | ||
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My all time favorite in '06 with the 168 MK was 48.5 grs. IMR-4895 but I also loaded the same charge with H4895 with excellent results. The books show this as a "hot" load so work up to it. It never gave me any indication of excess pressure and it shot sub-minute of angle. "I ask, sir, what is the Militia? It is the whole people. To disarm the people is the best and most effective way to enslave them" - George Mason, co-author of the Second Amendment during the Virginia convention to ratify the Constitution | |||
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I can't say about H4350 but IMR4350 is tempature sensitive. I have loaded a lot of IMR4350 in the past that worked well in the Winter but would make the bolt stick in the hotter weather. The 150gr BT and 150gr Match Kings shot very well out of my Rem 30-06. If you want I can look up the load I use to use but as I said it didn't work well during the Hot weather. Swede --------------------------------------------------------- NRA Life Member | |||
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Bullet: Sierra 168 Grain HPBT Powder: 56.6 grains of IMR-4350 Primer: Winchester 8-1/2 Case: Winchester Firearm: Ruger 77R Optics: Leupold 3x9 Velocity: 2801 FPS @ 15' from muzzle Accuracy: 5-shot, 200-yards, ~.75" | |||
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This is what I got: Bullet: Sierra 168 HPBT & AMAX Powder: H4350 & Varget Primer: Fed 210M Case: Remington Firearm: Winchester Model 70, soon to be equipped with H.S. Precision stock. Optics: Burris Fullfield 3x9 Accuracy: As good as .7moa out to 300yds. with 50.5grs. Varget & 150NBTs.(3 shots) Steve, Given these components, could I come close to your .375moa at 300yds.? My goal for the rifle once the stock comes in is 1/2moa to 300yds. Or should I say, are these components close enough for "government work"? BTW, Do you do anything to your Rugers to make them shoot as good as they do? Maybe re-cut the chamber, etc, etc? Thanks, Jay | |||
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The only thing I do to the Rugers is take them out of the box, tear them down, give them a damn good cleaning, hollow out the foreend from the reciever all the way down to give around 1/4" clearance between the wood and the metal, and polish the trigger mechanism. Then I put them back together, torque all the screws until they "feel right", and start working-up a load. The metal NEVER leaves the wood again, and the scope NEVER comes off the rifle. | |||
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