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Anyone uniform their flash holes ???
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Picture of bowhuntrrl
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I was just wondering if anyone here does this. I just bought the tool and decided to try it out. There's one heck of a burr on Remington brass inside the flash hole !!! I can't see how it would hurt anything. It's a real bear to start the tool inside the case because some of the holes are so crooked. Any hints ??? TIA.

bowhuntr [Wink]
 
Posts: 931 | Location: Somewhere....... | Registered: 07 October 2002Reply With Quote
<22BR>
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Who's device did you buy? I've got one from K&M that has a sliding collar that centers the tool in the mouth of the case. Keep it up, won't hurt. Don't forget to the the primer pockets as well.

Stan
 
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I use Lymans tools to both uniform the flash hole and the primer pocket. I can�t say I have noticed any difference, then again I haven�t done any "scientific" test to prove wether it improves accuracy or not. I have noticed that it is easier to seat primers consistently when the pockets are uniformed and the primers have no marks from the priming tool after I started uniforming pockets. I also think it�s worth the time spent, at least if you get ten ore more reloads from your cases.
 
Posts: 210 | Location: Oslo, Norway | Registered: 04 October 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Bob338
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Always! The size of the flash hole affects the pressure generated by a load. If too large, you increase pressures to the point of danger in max loads. It follows that if too small ignition is retarded. Uniforming them provides consistency.
 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Sometimes, it depends on the intended use and the quality of the brass. I'm pretty sure that Winchester and Remington punch the flash holes, and that's what leaves the burr on the inside. Lapua drills their flash holes and they look great inside and out.

Just my opinion, Bill
 
Posts: 1169 | Location: USA | Registered: 23 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of D Humbarger
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Here is one I made using a center drill that had one end broken off. The pilots are adjustable. The pilot in the photo happens to be 30 cal.
 -
 
Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
<George Capriola>
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The first thing I do with new brass is de-burr the flash holes and uniform the primer pockets. De-burring is a "once and done" thing, but I run the uniformer every time I prep the case for reloading.
Regards, George.
 
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Picture of jeffeosso
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I sure do. Just the inside, to deburr, only, for hunting rounds. Benchrest, well, there's lots of work for those.

how I do it? just enough to knock the burr off, and make a tiny cut on the web.

jeffe
 
Posts: 39566 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of claybuster
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I noticed a slight tightening of groups in the .223,,,But none in the .30 cal. class. It's not going to hurt anything though,Maby give you more consistant case wieght if you're weighing each one.Happy Shooting!
 
Posts: 2119 | Location: woodbine,md,U.S.A | Registered: 14 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Russell E. Taylor
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For my "precision" ammo, I uniform the flash holes and primer pockets, trim, deburr, and chamfer. I use a combination of tools.

Bear Claw, I sure like the one you made. You should sell them.

Russ
 
Posts: 2982 | Location: Silvis, IL | Registered: 12 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of ricciardelli
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Nope, it's a waste of time...
 
Posts: 3282 | Location: Saint Marie, Montana | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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98 or 99 cases out of a 100 don't need flash hole reaming. The other 1 or 2 need it BAD. It's a one time operation that I can do with a Lyman tool while I'm watching the news. Don't try to funnel the flash hole, just clean it up enough so you've got a hairline of shiny brass around the flash hole.

Bye
Jack
 
Posts: 176 | Location: Saskatchewan | Registered: 14 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of TCLouis
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This is something I do to all brass, new or "once fired" and am not sure I can tell a difference in performance. I did 50 257 Roberts and left 50 in their original condition (out of a batch of 100) and there was a "slight" difference in velocity and consistency of data over the chronograph.
Enough difference to be significant . . . Heck, that requires all that statistics stuff, and if ya gotta apply all that, it may or may not be true.

"Figures don't lie.

Liars figure."
[Eek!]
That said, I did notice that the bur in 22 hornet brass was much worse (more metal in the bur) than any other brass I have prepped. Wish I had used them as the experimental batch since that much metal would be much more significant in that small case capacity.

I have the Lyman, but it is dependent on case length, so I used it very little. The K&M is the "best" I have seen since it has a collar to control how much brass one removes.
I have done several thousand rounds of fired and virgin brass and have yet to need the extra cutter I ordered with the tool!

LouisB
 
Posts: 4255 | Location: TN USA | Registered: 17 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of wildcat junkie
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Buy Norma brass (if available in your caliber)and you won't have to bother with this as the flash holes are bored and not punched.

BillM: The next time I buy 30-06 brass to form 8mm-06 Ackley Improved cases I will give Lapua a try!

[ 10-26-2002, 21:10: Message edited by: wildcat junkie ]
 
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Russel I never gave it a thought.
 
Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
<Poppy09>
posted
Doug, do give it some thought. My Problem with the few different de-burring tools I own is the uncomfortable handle/tool top.(old arthritic hands) The rcbs green handle was close to comfortable but I don't care for the collar set up. My favorite is the sinclair, your knurled handle would be the perfect compliment to their tool.... Jim.
 
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