Would anyone share any insights on advantages, disadvantages, or preferences between the Stoney Point bullet comparator that takes inserts and attaches to your calipers compared to Sinclairs bullets comparators that resemble a hex nut? Checking prices of the two different Sinclair hex comparators vs. the Stoney Point set it looks as though there is very little difference in prices. I use the "split neck" method to set the bullet depth in my cases so I am not really interested in Stoney Points modified cartridge cases, I just want to get away from the discrepancies of measuring off the constant varying of the bullet tips.

Thanks, Mike

The Stoney Point is much more convenient than Sinclairs. I have them both and can't recall the last time I used the Sinclair while I use the Stoney Point at every reloading session. You still need to fiddle with three things in your hands when you use Sinclair while with Stoney Point the comparator is attached to the caliper. It's just more convenient, though it is a bit more expensive.

Also, the Sinclair won't give you a comparator with larger bores. I believe the largest is 30 caliber, which makes you have to buy something else if you ever mess with the larger bores.

They both do the same thing. There is just more convenience and flexibility with Stoney Point.

[ 09-01-2003, 19:25: Message edited by: Bob338 ]

I have both and both work as advertised. For me, it is a little bit easier to use the Stoney Point. The Sinclair is a little bit wobblier in the hand when measuring. Be aware that the measurements obtained do not apply universally, only when remeasured with the same tool.

I likewise have them both. The Stoney point, as has been mentioned, is easier to use. BUT, you need to buy a separate chamber adapter or whatever they call it for each cartridge you shoot. So I use the SP for my more common calibers like .30-06 .308 etc and the Sinclair for less used calibers like my .243 Win.

I just have the Sinclair, and it is a real pain for big and long cartridges, but not much trouble at all for .223 sized cartridges.
It would work better if I had calipers with thick jaws.

Il ike the Stoney Point way more than the hex nut ones..

You do need a modified case for each cartridge, but you can make your own if you have a drill press and a tap and die. One of the good guys on the forum made one for me for my 300WSM.

I have them both and use both of them. The Sinclair is more convenient, and the Stoney Point is easier to use.

I don't need to bother with attaching the Sinclair to my caliper. I just grab it out of a little tackle box that has all my small reloading tools and use it. That's what I do when I'm setting up to use a single seating depth or checking that the depth is correct when I change dies.

If I am going to be experimenting with seating depth or meauring dozens of rounds, I go ahead and attach the Stoney Point. I can deal with holding three non-attached objects for a few rounds, and the jaws on my Brown & Sharp are wide enough that the Sinclair doesn't wobble when I'm holding it right. It's just not as easy as using the Stoney Point.

As Bob338 pointed out, the Sinclair only goes up to 30 caliber. Moreover, additional Stoney Point inserts are cheap.

H. C.

One more note:

The Stoney Point can also be used with their headspace measurement fittings, so the caliper attachment can serve two purposes and actually save you some loot.

As for the Stoney Point OAL tool, anyone know the thread size for the "special" cases they sell? I'd like to make one using one of my previously fired cases.

5/16" X 36 tpi.

You don't have to buy the Stoney Point modified cases if you only want to compare lengths. The caliber specific adapters and receptacle will do everything the Sinclair nut will do. Then use other methods to determine bullet jump.

But I suggest getting the Stoney Point tool with modified cases. The shoulder bushings are handy, too.

If you get the Stoney Point, and reload several calibers, first thing to do is swap the allen screw with the knurled knob. Mount it permanently on a pair of calipers. Use the knurled knob for changing bushings.

[ 09-08-2003, 19:56: Message edited by: steve y ]

steve y,

If you get the Stoney Point, and reload several calibers, first thing to do is swap the allen screw with the knurled knob. Mount it permanently on a pair of calipers. Use the knurled knob for changing bushings.

You took the words right out of my mouth.
The other caliper cost me about 30 bucks and switching the knurled screw makes changing between ogive and headspace bushings a snap.

If you have the means to, making your own bushings with what ever bore dia. in either SS or aluminum is pretty simple.

Again, you don't need the modified case but just to check a loaded rounds OAL, not for headspace, and I use the Split-Neck method for that anyway, the SP OAL gauge sets in the drawer.

Brent,

Not to change the subject, but what is the split neck method? I have cut the end off of an empty brass before (~.1" of the neck), split it, and slid it on a bullet then placed to see how long a chamber is, but it does not tell me my OAL of a loaded round. Only max brass length. If you don't mind, is there another method that will give you the OAL w/o the Stoney Point or is this what you were referring to?

mikea,

Here is the last couple topics on the split case method I found on a search in the reloading forum.

http://www.nookhill.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=008572#000000

http://www.nookhill.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=009160#000009

I use the same "Split Ring method" as you for checking chamber OAL too. Matter of fact, you could use the same case and split to below the shoulder for for a two in one gauge, but I'd use a seperate case with a full length neck for the Split Neck OAL to land contact tool.

mbk,

I love the SP comparator, it's fast, accurate, easy to use, switches out with bushings for headspace checks instantly (if you switch the knurrled knob w/ the allen set screw or get another knurled knob), and if you believe it makes a difference in group size and you shoot boattails, buy two of the holders and mount them on one caliper to check the bullets bearing surface length and batch them acordingly. I've heard some guys swear by it, although I've not tried it yet to see.

I will need to get one of the Stoney Points but in the meantime l have taken the cheap way out and that is just using a comparable sized regular hex nut (part of any tool kit) and using it as a comparator similar to the Sinclair.

Good luck

Thanks Brent. That's essentially what I've done in the past to find OAL, but without splitting the neck (rather, I work the neck loose and use lube on the neck and at the lands). I like the split neck idea, and will give it a shot in the future.