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Breaking down one step into three. Which order.
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I'll be trying some different case prep for my next batch of reloads using fireformed PRVI brass and am curious about the best workflow for the following three steps:

Deprime > shoulder bump > neck size

Or

Deprime > neck size > shoulder bump

I'll deprime with a Lee Universal Decapper, shoulder bump with a Forster Shoulder Neck Bump die (without bushing), and neck size with the Lee Collet.
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 24 January 2018Reply With Quote
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Welcome

Can't say what is best just say what I do in a situation where I need to increase neck tension.

I would deprime, shoulder bump if necessary and neck size.

I would not bump the shoulder until I was having chambering issues.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by M.D.:
I'll be trying some different case prep for my next batch of reloads using fireformed PRVI brass and am curious about the best workflow for the following three steps:

Deprime > shoulder bump > neck size

Or

Deprime > neck size > shoulder bump

I'll deprime with a Lee Universal Decapper, shoulder bump with a Forster Shoulder Neck Bump die (without bushing), and neck size with the Lee Collet.
First, welcome to the forum! There's a lot of expertise here.

I'm not the best authority, but if the fire formed cases fit your chamber, why would you bump the shoulder? Why not just neck size?

That's what I do and it's worked just fine for thousands of rounds for 9 cartridges and 10 rifles.
 
Posts: 939 | Location: Grants Pass, OR | Registered: 24 September 2012Reply With Quote
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Yep.
Why shoulder bump if not needed ?
 
Posts: 1991 | Location: Sinton, TX | Registered: 16 June 2013Reply With Quote
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I don't shoulder bump, I resize about 3/4 of the neck or one caliber size down the neck until I NEED to full length resize a case. I use a bench primer tool to prime my cases..I try to keep everyhthing simple, something new reloaders hate to do because its no fun..but been there and done that also back when it was fun... Big Grin

Why shoulder bump a fireformed case? until you absolutely have to, like after 4 or 5 reloadings. That defeating the purpose..However for hunting I would simply full length resize, brass lasts just as long in most good chambers I have found in some backyard tests..I think its a bench resters thing as they use the same case for years, and they anneal.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42176 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Picture of bartsche
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oldMostly I use a FL sizing die. If I have only one rifle for that cartridge and the cases were fired in that rifle I set the die so that about 9/10 of the neck is sized down.
Occasionally I find the the fired cases won't chamber( more than one rifle for that cartridge) I than fl-size. One die-never had a problem.
beerroger


Old age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone..
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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1) Size half of your cases with your neck die and half with a FL die backed out 1 turn.

2) Check sized cases on a comparator for run out.

3) Discover that the FL cases were straighter than the neck-sized cases.

4) Question your entire belief system, consider calling the die manufacturer and reaming him a new one.

5) Load test loads in both the neck and partial FL die. Shoot and discover that the neck sized cases never shot one bit better, and perhaps not as well. Note

6) Order up a set of Redding competition shell holders.

7) Continue to use the backed out FL die while you wait, and until chambering becomes harder than you judge to be optimum.

8) Install the .010" over shellholder, adjust FL die to cam over hard. Remove decapping stem and size case. Size the case and trial fit in rifle. If there is too make effort lowering bolt handle got to the .008" shellholder. Repeat with progressively smaller shell holders until there is just a tiny increased effort at the end. Decide if it is zero headspace or .002" bump that you want. If the later go down one more. Write down the number on your die case, ammo boxes, notebook if you keep one.

9) reinsert the expandeassembly, size case again.

10) Repeat endlessly for the life of the brass, the next batch, every future batch, and the life of the barrel.

11) Live long and be happy. Smiler
 
Posts: 1928 | Location: Saskatchewan, Canada | Registered: 30 November 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Texas Killartist:
Yep.
Why shoulder bump if not needed ?


that damn train still run thru sinton when trying to get to work and when ur trying to get to vans in mathis for lunch?
 
Posts: 1546 | Location: south of austin texas | Registered: 25 November 2011Reply With Quote
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This is what I do: I set up a fl die to fl resize the case. Then I take a fender washer or a piece of flat stock about a dime or a nickle thick and bore a hole through it that the die body will fit through but not the lock ring. I put that on top of the press and thread the die through it. You now have a spacer between the lock ring on the die and the top of the press. They now call that "partial FL resizing". It has for me produced the most accurate ammmo. Sadly, you don't have to buy another die nor any of the myriad of thingies that they would have you believe was needed to load simple ammo.
When the cartridge become kinda hard to bring into battery, remove your spacer, full length resize and start over.
Hint: you can also put a dime or nickle on each side of the die between the lock ring and the top of the press and achieve the same thing. But the washer is handier.


Aim for the exit hole
 
Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of bartsche
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quote:
Originally posted by wasbeeman:
This is what I do: I set up a fl die to fl resize the case. Then I take a fender washer or a piece of flat stock about a dime or a nickle thick and bore a hole through it that the die body will fit through but not the lock ring. I put that on top of the press and thread the die through it. You now have a spacer between the lock ring on the die and the top of the press. They now call that "partial FL resizing". It has for me produced the most accurate ammmo. Sadly, you don't have to buy another die nor any of the myriad of thingies that they would have you believe was needed to load simple ammo.
When the cartridge become kinda hard to bring into battery, remove your spacer, full length resize and start over.
Hint: you can also put a dime or nickle on each side of the die between the lock ring and the top of the press and achieve the same thing. But the washer is handier.


tu2This a dandy procedure for sure. Make sure you have the lock ring locked down tightly prior in the FL position before proceeding .

beerroger


Old age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone..
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks for all the replies. Lots of tasty food for thought.
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 24 January 2018Reply With Quote
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You can also, using a sheet of wet or dry, run the washer on both sides to the exact size you want it to be..I also at one time made U shaped washer that slide in and out so I didn't have to unscrew the die when I needed to...Sometime you have nothing else to do in the shop except play..This was a good day. rotflmo


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42176 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Deprime, shoulder bump or F/L resize, then neck tension.

Actually Deprime, Anneal, bump, neck tension, trim (if necessary).


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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