loaded my 6.5/284 a little diffrently and im getting my fireing pin punching through the primer. i read were you and size your caseing with the deprimer pin in then again without it and minimize neck pulling and have no side to side untrueing. i noticed the bullets seated a little harder. i guess i am now getting to much pressure? proably should pull and do rite? or could it be something else? hate to because man they are really grouping for me. any tips or info? thank you.

Assuming the problem isn't with the firing pin itself, ain't no way I'm gonna continue to fire ammo that blows pimers. No matter how good it shoots.

it could be the pin? it started a few trips ago to the range, then iy got to a point it wouldnt hit hard enough to fire. i brought it home and took apart the bolt and cleaned/oiled it then it fired ok but knocked a hole in the primer again?

Your firing pin isn't "punching through" the primers, the primers are rupturing, possibly due to excessive pressure, but from your description, you have a very weak firing pin spring which is allowing the primer to push the pin back into its hole, then allow the primer to rupture. It would also be wise to otherwise ascertain that your loads are not creating grosssly excessive pressure.

that makes sence, along with the new neck method i spoke of i used reg large rifle primers insted of benchrest primers i had allways used for this cal.how i can i tell if im creating excessive pressure?

heres a few pics if it helps or shows anything?



the one on the right is how it used to hit the left is the problem round middle of corse is a unfired round.

Unless you're running the ragged edge of maximum a little more neck tension won't do too much. Now that is the wrong thing to do though running that much neck tension. The outside of your neck maybe straight, but the inside might not be depending on how true your neck thick is. There are reloading methods to line up your expander straight. It also helps to have clean lubed necks with proper lube for that purpose. Of course I'm speaking about the inside of the neck.

I think you're running too high a pressure especially with increasing the neck tension and switching primers. I also noticed a few bolt swipe marks on your case heads.

having seen those pix, I gonna say you're running too hot. FWIW, when you start tinkering around with your cases and methodology, it's always best to back off a few grains and work up again

thanks guys, im gonna pull them and start over.

It's quite possible that your loads are hotter, but I bet there is a piece of one of the pierced primers wedged in the coils of your firing pin spring or just inside the bolt body where the firing pin stops causing this. The wedged piece makes the spring act as if it's weak, it's just binding and not allowing the firing pin to move forward far enough. You can normally see it before you take the bolt apart by measuring the firing pin protrusion with the bolt unlocked with a vernier, it should measure between .050"-.065", depending on the action.

I would be disassembling your bolt, removing the firing pin spring and it giving it a thorough going over.

If this is not the problem, then I would drop that load by 3% and see if the problem goes away.

Let me know how you get on.

Cheers.

416 rigby thats exacrly what i seen when i tool it apart a small punch out that was in the bolt were the pinbase lands! im off to see what i have for a measurment.

rite now its exactly.050" without the piece of primer, so with it in it would have been under.

inside the bolt with the guts out you can even see were the piece was getting hit everytime and traveling! the pin looks ok to me?

If you are not using a bushing die to resize you need to use the sizing ball to open the neck back up. It is with bushing dies such as the Redding Type S Bushing die that we remove the sizing ball. The correct bushing prevents the over squeezing of the neck in the first place so the sizing ball is not needed.

The firing pin hole in the breech face of the bolt should have been bushed in your GAP built Tac-ti-Kool rifle.

The screwed handle & serialized bolt handle are a dead give away!

quote:

Originally posted by fishguts:
inside the bolt with the guts out you can even see were the piece was getting hit everytime and traveling! the pin looks ok to me?

The pin looks fine, just roll it on a flat surface to be sure it's not bent, if it rolls OK, just give the pin a light polish with some 1200 grit wet/dry and some WD40 or the like wetted on the paper.

The reason the primers pierced was due to a lack of support by the pin, it just wasn't protruding out far enough.
Looks like you'll have to keep an eye on it in the future, same as me with my SenderoII in 22-250, too much of a bevel on the firing pin hole!

Cheers.

You might want to check case head expansion as well, I ran across this last year on a 6.5-284 I built, come to find out the reamer basically had very little throat on it, and after throating it for the 140 VLD's all problems went away.