can i use mag.primers in stander cals.3006 exc.

As long as you start low and work up, sure.

quote:

Originally posted by ozarkman:

can i use mag. primers in standard cals, .30-06 etc.

Yes, but do as TripletDad advises. A magnum primer throws a larger, longer flash through the powder, which causes smaller, fast-burning volumes of powder in standard-face cartridges to ignite at a much more rapid rate than would the heavier, slow-burning powder charges in a magnum-face cartridge. The problem you'll probably encounter is that you'll have to use lesser charges to keep pressure under control, but what will happen is that the powder might lay down in the case to such an extent that the flash will travel across the powder as opposed to through it. You'll get erratic combustion, high pressures (because you'll be shooting a pseudo-reduced load), crappy accuracy and might see unburned specks of powder in the barrel. In all of this, all I will say is let your conscience be your guide.

That was tacky.

I once bought some Accurate 3100 (real close to the 4831 powders) for cheap, and it left lots of little unburned specks of powder in my .280.

I tried using magnum primers to get a better burn and it worked for me. I get better accuracy in my .270's and .280 when using magnum primers with IMR-4831 and slower powders, especially RL-22.

I don't hot rod my loading. For example, I use 58.5 gr. H-4831/130 gr. Sierra PH in one .270 and get .5-.75 inch groups with Winchester Magnum Rifle primers. Same load with CCI-200 primer and group opens to 1 -1.25 inch.

I know a guy who hunts with 30-06 in Canada and he always uses magnum primers because of the cold weather.

When it comes to primers, it seems everyone's mileage varies a bit. Merg

As long as you follow the rules about working up loads as mentioned above, you'll probably do fine if shooting a hunting or plinking round. With the spotty primer supply it might not be a bad idea to work up some magnum sparked loads to use in those applications.


If you want extreme accuracy, you are heading off in the wrong direction. Match shooters are always interested in making the start pressure less abrupt which translates into a smoother, easier to tune load because the vibrations caused by combustion are less severe if the start pressure is less and the entire combustion is smoother. Those vibrations eventually work their way down the barrel and become muzzle whip, even in heavy BR bull barrels. That is one reason why the flash holes in PPC and BR cases are smaller, and very few, if any BR or long range varmint shooters use the magnum primers.

Yes, you can use Magnum primers in a 30.06. The guiding factor in primer selection should be the powder you are using. In mid volume cases such as the 06, standard primers tend to work better with stick powders, and magnum primers tend to work better with the hard to ignite ball powders.

As touched on by others ; Magnum primers are generally for igniting LARGE CASE SLOW BALL or EXTRUDED

POWDERS .



From Chuck Hawks page ;



The priming compound itself is an explosive intended to be detonated by percussion. (It can also be detonated by heat or flame.) There is typically less than one grain of priming compound in even the hottest primers.

Magnum primers are "hotter" than standard primers. CCI/Speer typically recommends that magnum primers be used with ball (or spherical) powders, when loading magnum or other large capacity cases, and when it is anticipated that the cartridges will be used at temperatures below 20 degrees F. Ball powders are generally harder to ignite than flake and extruded powders and magnum primers are often called for, even in non-magnum rifle and pistol cartridges. Let your reloading manual be your guide to primer selection.

As Homebrewer stated Flash over is an ABSOLUTE NO NO !. Large case with smaller amount of Slow or Magnum

type powder with any primer is asking for TROUBLE with a Capital T . Pressure curve Spike detonation

can RIP YOUR whatever off !. Cartridge powder is meant to burn from the primer anvil forward and never from

the case neck and back !!! . An before someone corrects me ALL burning rates of powder will Rip you a

new one if the above scenario is allowed to occur . Many reduced load enthusiast use loads which are

questionable if not down right DANGEROUS . The smart ones use inert fillers to keep powder against primer

anvil .

Another Borrowed piece

start by reducing your charge by a two full grains on 06 based rounds and chrono along side the standard loaded round.
if the mag primer is still higher by MV back off another grain. you probably have to rebuild a pet load if changing something like a primer.