I use the Hornady headspace comparator/case gauge to set up my sizing dies. The goal is to bump the case shoulder back by only 1-2 thou. I find the setup of the die to be tedious and time consuming. You have to run in a case multiple times as you screw the die down. It is easy to overshoot.

Does anyone have a good way to get the die close before I start to advance .001 to .002 at a time? I tried using a fired case but with the case hitting the die you cannot feel when the shoulder contacts the die shoulder

I think you are overthinking it; and getting one or two thousandths length, uniformly, on brass case shoulders is damn near impossible due to the way brass springs back and forth. I set dies so I get a slight feel on the brass when closing; then you know they all will be the same in the chamber. I want them to be 1-2 thou over length; not under. Of course this is only for bolt actions. I use no fancy comparator tools. And there is no substitute for trial and error in setting the die.

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Originally posted by dpcd:
I think you are overthinking it; and getting one or two thousandths length, uniformly, on brass case shoulders is damn near impossible due to the way brass springs back and forth. I set dies so I get a slight feel on the brass when closing; then you know they all will be the same in the chamber. I want them to be 1-2 thou over length; not under. Of course this is only for bolt actions. I use no fancy comparator tools. And there is no substitute for trial and error in setting the die.

This, Unless you are loading the ammo for multiple rifles, set it to YOUR chamber, not some arbitrary standard.
If you are loading for multiple rifles, set your die to just chamber with a little resistance to your tightest (shortest) chamber.

Using a permanent marker, I color the whole shoulder of a fired case, before applying One Shot case lube spray. I then begin adjusting the die, watching the neck of the case.

When the neck shows die marks nearing where the shoulder meets the neck, I begin making very small adjustments on the die, till I see bits of brass shining through the marker. It is then set at a point where the case is just touching the shoulder.

I have an RCBS case gauge (cartridge specific; 30-06) that measures "headspace" on the shell datum line, and it has revealed that I am not even setting the shoulder back .001 using this method.

You still need to be careful, and continuously check the shell, but once die depth is set, it's ready for the rest of the lot.

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If you are loading for multiple rifles, set your die to just chamber with a little resistance to your tightest (shortest) chamber.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I think you are overthinking it; and getting one or two thousandths length, uniformly, on brass case shoulders is damn near impossible due to the way brass springs back and forth. I set dies so I get a slight feel on the brass when closing; then you know they all will be the same in the chamber. I want them to be 1-2 thou over length; not under. Of course this is only for bolt actions. I use no fancy comparator tools. And there is no substitute for trial and error in setting the die.

Fully agree with above but what I have found is that after running the same case in and out of the die until you get a slight hesitation on closing the bolt, the next case sized will not necessarily exhibit the same slight feel. When first setting up my FL dies I lube a few cases and size a fresh one each time as I adjust the die so that when the die is eventually set it has been done on a single stroke with a lubed case i.e. the press is subject to the same stress as it will be when sizing a fired case down in a single stroke of the press.

Obviously this phenomenon probably depends on the type or make of the press being used, some maybe stronger and not stress to the same degree as others.

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Using a permanent marker, I color the whole shoulder of a fired case, before applying One Shot case lube spray. I then begin adjusting the die, watching the neck of the case.

You've received some excellent advice above.

..... or simply soot the neck/shoulder of the case with a candle (ensure powder is stowed somewhere else, not on the reloading bench); hold the case right at @ where the tip of the flame is. Don't hold it on the flame too long as it will get hot (so will your fingers .....)

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Originally posted by eagle27:

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I think you are overthinking it; and getting one or two thousandths length, uniformly, on brass case shoulders is damn near impossible due to the way brass springs back and forth. I set dies so I get a slight feel on the brass when closing; then you know they all will be the same in the chamber. I want them to be 1-2 thou over length; not under. Of course this is only for bolt actions. I use no fancy comparator tools. And there is no substitute for trial and error in setting the die.

Fully agree with above but what I have found is that after running the same case in and out of the die until you get a slight hesitation on closing the bolt, the next case sized will not necessarily exhibit the same slight feel. When first setting up my FL dies I lube a few cases and size a fresh one each time as I adjust the die so that when the die is eventually set it has been done on a single stroke with a lubed case i.e. the press is subject to the same stress as it will be when sizing a fired case down in a single stroke of the press.

Obviously this phenomenon probably depends on the type or make of the press being used, some maybe stronger and not stress to the same degree as others.

Sometimes that is true. Still, I am ok with using one case with the marker in the shoulder to get it set, and if I come across a case that chambers with resistance, I can give it that little extra tweek, re-resizing all cases for uniformity. Most times, it is unnecessary.

Yes, if you run one case in and out, it will become shorter so you can't do that; have to try with more cases. Brass is so ductile and springy that it does funny things and every case does not react the same as it's partner.

Thanks for the replies. I will put the suggestions to use in a few days.

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Originally posted by kmitchl:
Thanks for the replies. I will put the suggestions to use in a few days.

Getting back to your original question... The short answer is No. LOL!!!

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Originally posted by kmitchl:
Thanks for the replies. I will put the suggestions to use in a few days.

I use the Stoney Point tool which was the predecessor of the tool you are using. I size for a shoulder bump of .001 to .0015. The Redding Type S full length bushing die is the one that I have found to be the easiesst to use.

I start with the neck bushing out and get the shoulder where I want it, then put the bushing in. From there you will have to make some minute adjustments to get it where you want it. Once I get it set I don't take it out of the press and use aa different press for the seating die. If your using a full length sizing die with the expander ball on the deecapping rod it will drive you nuts. That thing no matter how well its polished or lubed will pull your shoulder every time. Anneal about every third time and using a bushing sizing die your shoulders will stay right where you bump them to.

Your on the right track bumping the shoulder .001 to .0015

You have got some great advise.

I use the Hornady comparator now.

Once you have the die set up for the rifle / case, you just lock it in - even use Locktite on the spindle stem. For die ring nut, just index it with a permanent marker or if you have a hex screw on the nut, jut put a #6 led pellet into it and tighten it.