A (non-reloader) friend has a Rem. mod. 721 in 300 H&H and has asked me to reload some ammo for him due to the $50.00 per box price for the factory stuff.
I have never reloaded a "belted" case before and from what I read in my manuals neck sizing and headspacing off the shoulder is not recommended for this case due to the ammount of taper and very shallow (8 deg) shoulder angle. Also, I hear case stretching can be a problem due to this taper and shoulder angle.
I would appriciate any reloading tips for this cartridge. It seems a shame to full length resize as the "once fired" cases rechamber easily but one of my manuals does say "this is one of the belted cases that actually must be headspaced off the belt"
Any comments/tips appriciated...Thanks,

Jon

I cured a host of problems with mine when I started backing off my FL sizer. I use a nickle between the shell holder and the bottom of the die to get minimal body sizing and a good neck size. Never had any problems with this arrangement and the brass lasts alot better.

The question of whether you can or can't headspace of the shoulder on a 300 H&H is largely academic since it has a belt. What you can do (and I read the other posts to say the same thing) is tailor the brass to your chamber with proper sizing-die set up. While I use it for other rounds, I have to admit that the set-up process Savage99 describes has proven difficult for me on this particular round due to the shallow shoulder, and I would recommend using a Sinclair Comparator or a Wilson case gauge.

Case stretching is a fact of life with this cartridge but partial full length sizing will help, particularly in minimizing the risk of head separation.

Jon,

I don't load for others anylonger due to liablity reasons. However if you don't charge I understand it's legal.

First check inside every case with a feeler wire down near the expansion web for insipiant head separations.

Then set the FL die by sizing a case and testing it in the rifle as you adjust it down. For this one needs the rifle of course. Remove the firing pin from the rifle first. The easy way is to hold the firing pin in soft jaws and pull back on the bolt and slip a coin in between the firing pin and bolt shroud and turn the firing pin assembly out.

Remember as we FL size a case and the die touches the body of the fired case it pushes the shoulder forward. So it will get worse at first and then as the die is adjusted more and more it will finally contact the shoulder and the case will fit just right.

You could also just neck size the case as there is so much body taper. This might work well for the first reload or even more if the inital loads are not all that hot.

As this is the first time around with that rifle try a bullet in the mouth of a fired case. It should enter easily.

Powders like IMR 4350, H 4831 and RL 19 work well with 180 gr bullets. Use magnum primers.

Savage 99's approach is the correct one, for almost any type of cartridge, belted, rimmed, rimless, straight or bottlenecked! What you want to do is SIZE THE CASE AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE and yet have it re-enter the chamber and hold the new bullet securely. The idea that a .300 H&H can't headspace off of any portion of the case ahead of the belt due to its' long, sloping shoulder shape is just plain nonsense. Whether it will or not depends on how "generous" the rifle's chamber is.

I used to load this caliber, and had no particular problems due to its shape compared to other belted cases.

Thanks for the great tips...just the stuff I needed to know. Ordered a set of dies and case length/trim gauge today. I'll have the rifle for a couple weeks and will size the ammo to it's chamber, test fire, and work up an acceptably accurate load myself before turning it over to my friend. I hear the comments about liability though and will keep it in mind.
Thanks to all for the info.

Jon

Jon, I traded for the twin to your buddy's rifle several years ago. It is an incredible rifle.

I load for a large number of rifles, many in identical calibers. Therefore, I have always full length resized all my brass. Because I have an aversion to belted cases (this caliber excluded), I knew that I would only be loading for this one chamber. So I bought a neck size die set.

One hundred rounds of new brass have not be fired up as yet, and when they do I will neck size them 2-3 times before they will need full length sizing. At the rate I shoot this gun, they may take me through my life. If not, I can buy a full length sizer or new brass to start with. Your buddy can use this plan or use partial sizing to hold the brass to his chamber.

My M721 came close to shooting a one hole group with the first load I threw together for it. This load is a moderate charge (by the book) of AA3100 and a 180 grain spitzer. Never tried another load. I sure like those older rifles!

Agree Hook, the rifle is a beauty...even with a few dings in the stock. All of the metal, bore, etc. are "like new" and it's completly origional except for the very necessary recoil pad. It belonged to his Father so no chance of talking him out of it. He's taken two elk and a few mule deer with it and I'm sure he will pass it on to HIS son when his hunting days are over.
When the dies arrive I'll try and adjust for very minimal sizing. With all the taper and shallow shoulder angle it seems like the neck should "size down" well before the rest of the case almost making a neck size only die un-necessary.
Agree, this thing is NOT a plinker and case life will really not be much of an issue. The barrel is not free floated but the action/barrel fit the stock quite well. It's going to be fun to see how it shoots.
Thanks for the load info. He also wants to use 180g SP's but we're going start with IMR4831 because I have a few lbs. of it. If for some reason it dos'nt work we will consider the AA powder. Thanks again for the reply.

Jon