Geo., At the risk of exposing my ignorance, What is Neck ring sizing???? I've use the carbide expander buttons and I believe that the "trick" is to use a bushing the right size so that the carbide expander just "kisses" the inside of the neck when it pulled thru.....Some neck walls will be slightly thicker than others and the thicker ones will size down a little smaller.....the expander will get them all the same size on the inside, which contributes to consistent seating depth.....And consistent seating depth is a very desirable condition for tight groups.....Good luck.....George

>What is Neck ring sizing?<
That is where you only use a neck sizing die that has a neck sizing ring, having calculated the correct number from measurements. For example, loaded round is 0.335" outside of neck, so if you want 0.002" grip on the bullet, you use a ring with a diameter of 0.332"(its gonna spring back 0.001"). You leave any inside expander button out of the die, except for a substitute that holds the decapping pin in the rod.

>I believe that the "trick" <
The farther that I get away from inside expanders, the better I like it. This type of sizing works best with necks that have been outside turned to a consistent thickness. Nevertheless, it works just fine on ordinary brass--learn to average a little. Inside expanders contribute to crooked ammo. Better not have crooked ammo from the start, than have to find a way to compensate, like straightening.

>the expander will get them all the same size on the inside, which contributes to consistent seating depth<
Maybe yes and maybe no. Trying to get brass, with its inherent springiness, to do exactly the same thing from case-to-case and time-to-time is like trying to hit a moving target. Get an RCBS precision case mike and mike the case headspace before firing, after firing, and after sizing, especially with a f.l. die. Then do the next case shot with the same load. Then try and see what happens on the next firing of those same cases. Even with your best matched cases and weighed charges and bullets, there will be differences for which you cannot account. If you are worried about neck seating tension, don't. Tests with rail guns in indoor ranges show that it is not a big deal. If you must worry about it, then reject cases that "feel" differently as you seat the bullets. I prefer just to segregate cases that consistently give me fliers on a known good load.

>consistent seating depth is a very desirable condition for tight groups<
Yup, that's right. But did you ever measure the normal variation in bullet length, even out of the same box? When you seat your bullets it gets worse, usually. I much prefer to seat my bullets for a consistent distance into the lands when I can and let them find their own seatin depth. Not all rifles will allow this, especially if you have to use a magazine and load to magazine length. One of the fastest ways to get your gun to shoot well is to have no bullet jump--that is, have a consistent distance from a reference diameter on the ogive to the lands. The less distance, usually, the better. Loads need to be worked up for this technique from the start.

If you want good short range loads, say 100, 200, or 300 meter loads, then shoot at the requisite distance for groups and leave the chronograph at home.

If you want good long range loads, ignore what you see at short distance (for moderate groups) and load with the chronograph for very small shot-to-shot velocity variation. Then, after you have that down, shoot tests with those loads at long distance.

The best, most consistent sizing for accuracy is with the Redding Type-S Full Length die that uses neck sizing rings. Set the die so that it typically moves the shoulder back only 0.001", maybe 0.002", and use with the correct neck sizing ring. I use the Redding shell holders that allow me to set the headspace on the cartridge without having to fool around with the lock ring every time. They work and are extremely consistent.

Hope that helps.