If you have ever spilled or mixed loaded ammo together and then wondered which round was which, here is a simple way to color code them. I use the large Sharpie Permanent Ink Pens with the felt tip. I believe you can get them in Red, Blue, Black, Purple, Green and Orange. (They make yellow too, but it doesn't show up on brass.) Then after loading I take each round and with one quick movement make a colored circle around the groove between primer and case head. The result is your rounds are color coded and look exactly like the factory lacquer sealant. Obviously you don't want to make any marks on the case as you may wish to change the load next time. Each pen will do hundreds of rounds if you remember to recap after use.
This adds a nice finished, professional look to your ammo and tells you at a glance what is what.

OH, and it can also be used to distinguish between similar calibers. For example, I have a .41 Mag pistol and .44 Mag rifle. My old, tired eyes can't readily spot the difference without my glasses...but I can tell the colors.

I use this method also when loading up 5's and 10's of test loads for a new barrel. It lets me put everything in the same 50 rd ammo box for that particular caliber. The only thing I do different is I just color the primer, then all traces are gone when you deprime. If it is going to be a while before I shoot a batch or it is suppose to be windy (always in KS) I'll write the load on one case of each color set besides just a paper code sheet. All of the colors except black will clean off the cases quickly when you tumble them. The black wipes off in one pass with a little gun scrubber on a rag (others will too if you do not always media tumble)

MBK, thanks for your response. The ring I run around the primer, in the groove formed between a seated primer and case, leaves so little ink or dye on the casehead that depriming removes it and you can load and mark again on a clean surface next time. Perhaps I'm not describing the process very well?

I haven't tried your idea of actually marking on one of the cases. Just took Sharpie's word for it that the ink was PERMANENT. Probably there is enough residual case lube etc on the case that the ink does not remain.

Anyway, glad to hear another soul has discovered this little aid.

I have known people to mark on the bullet itself as naturally that is gone when the trigger is pulled. I just have a problem with bullets looking goofy as opposed to pretty.

[This message has been edited by Pecos45 (edited 04-14-2002).]

A little Hoppes #9 will remove all traces of sharpie marks. I write the grains on the case for load development.

I have used a sharpie for marking cases of all types for years. I mark on the main body with powder type and grain weight. I then use denatured alcohol to both get sizing lube and previous sharpie marks off. I never load big enough quanities of rifle to worry about getting loads mixed up, however, I will think of that color coding when loading pistol shells.

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if you run, you just die tired

I write the powder charge, case length, and case head diameter numbers on 'em when working up loads. BTW, the black stays on better than the red. The red'll wear off in your pocket.

And I ALWAYS make a circle or some other notation on pistol brass I shoot at a public range!!! No provenance; no reload.

Pertinax

I picked up on this trick when I first started reloading. I also put a mark on the rim to keep track of the number of times a case has been loaded. There is room for 5 marks then on to a different color.

I use clear nail polish (very small amount) to seal the primer to the primer pocket. One could use different colors to ID handloads, but using Sharpie markers is much easier for those handloads to be fired at the range.

I write the powder charge or bullet type in load developement with such markers on the side of the cases. I remove with 95% Alcohol.

I mark cases in lot numbers by colour coding the extraction groove. So the colour will not mechanically be removed in the tumbler. Also not too much resizing lubricant should get there.

The idea about 5 colours for reloading cycles is great for hunting rifle ammo, for pistol rounds I think my method is better, as cases last much longer than 5 times.

Hermann

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Actually I write info. on the bullet, that way there is no wiping the case off afterwards. On the larger bullets, >=.375, I write the actual load on the bullet.

I always wipe down rifle cases with Hoppes on a cloth to remove soot around case necks. This also removes the marker.-----Chainsaw

A little off topic, but I vacume seal my reloads with a food sealer.

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Never teach a pig to sing.
It wastes your time and annoys the pig

I mark the primer groove WELL with red nail polish for my .44 carbines' ammo. I don't want them getting loaded into the revolvers....

When working up a load, I write the powder weight used on the primer as I'll have several lot's with differant charges in the same plastic ammo case. Use a fine-point Sharpie marker.

I log the results as I shoot each shot, and no case cleaning required.

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-Dino
IHMSA #56176
A man said to the universe: "Sir, I exist!" "However," replied the universe, "That fact has not created in me a sense of obligation." - Stephen Crane

I use a simular trick but you need the the fine point sharpies. I write the last digit of the weight and a small dash if it us half a grain on the primer.

45.0 = 5
45.5 = 5-
46.0 = 6
etc.

It's easy to do on large primers and not too hard on the small. It avoids having to write down the color coding system and weights.

Great minds think alike - Some real "sharp-ie" guys live in Ohio, eh?

quote:

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Originally posted by Gary in Ohio:
I use a simular trick but you need the the fine point sharpies. I write the last digit of the weight and a small dash if it us half a grain on the primer.

45.0 = 5
45.5 = 5-
46.0 = 6
etc.

It's easy to do on large primers and not too hard on the small. It avoids having to write down the color coding system and weights.

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I use a stencil and a fine Sharpie to color in a UPC code with all the load data embedded in it on the side of the case. I picked up a used portable UPC reader like the ones that grocery stores use for inventory. Got it for a song on Ebay. Really helps keep things sorted out and organized. I put a matching UPC sticker in the load box. When I take down my targets I transfer the sticker to the group for later identification. I used to use Post-Its.

R

Great, since now we are on this topic of marking cartridges : How do I mark the number of times a brass has been loaded?

I was thinking creating indentations around the cartridge rim, the number of indentation being the number of times loaded...Thoughts?

Pyrotec, just go up and read at least two posts ...

H

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I have used the same trick for years except I color code the bullets. This way they show up better on the chronograph and the brass is untouched fro future use.

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"Hope for the best.....Expect the worst!"

Holy crap ! That's the most high-tech trick I've heard of in reloading yet! I'm impressed !

-Dino

quote:

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Originally posted by rogerinneb:
I use a stencil and a fine Sharpie to color in a UPC code with all the load data embedded in it on the side of the case. I picked up a used portable UPC reader like the ones that grocery stores use for inventory. Got it for a song on Ebay. Really helps keep things sorted out and organized. I put a matching UPC sticker in the load box. When I take down my targets I transfer the sticker to the group for later identification. I used to use Post-Its.

R

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Gee guys! I never expected my little post to start such a chain reaction of good ideas. Great work. To the fellow who asked "How do you know how many times you have reloaded each case?" Well, I've been accused of giving all my cases serial numbers but this isn't true. I just know them all by name! Further, this has saved me lots of arguments on the firing range over whose piece of brass is that lying by the bench.

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A well placed bullet is worth 1,000 ft/lbs of energy.

OK Guys, I can't hold out. I was just BSing on the bar code thing...Gotcha Dino...I don't want anyone trying to make those stencils or spending money on Ebay! I was reading the post and chuckling at all the ways we complicate our hobby and wanted to yank a few chains...I do use sharpies. Circle the primer method and sometimes write grains on outside of case for load developmnet......

R

[This message has been edited by rogerinneb (edited 04-19-2002).]

Sometimes you're very bad, Roger.

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A well placed bullet is worth 1,000 ft/lbs of energy.

Good one, Roger.

The way you "yank chains", it looks like you have a lot of experience being nastily creative.

You would fit right in at a certain gunshop in Dubai.....

Rick.

Guys,

I'm glad everyone's sens of humor is intact. I was sort of afraid I'd get flamed for my post, but it was too funny. Don't ask how the idea popped into my head, but as the posts got more and more elaborate about the "sharpie systems" being used, it just came to me....actually, you could write/buy the software to actually do it, I just think the stencil part would be impractical, and I don't think too many of us want to be putting upc stickers on our beautiful loaded rounds (talk about concentricity problems!).

R

Roger,

You naughty, naughty boy ! Got me good ! You're right, it is possible, and I bit.

Now - may you drop an open CASE of primers in deep-pile shag carpeting !! :-)

BTW - it's good to see some humor creeping into our discussions ! Thanks.

-Dino

I always use the boxes that small hardware comes in for each load which provides space for writing the load data. I have used the primer coloring method for years to identify different shot sizes for my upland hunting shells.

Here's a trick, maybe a couple tricks.

I got tired of the plastic collar on the RCBS Powder Trickler creeping forward on the shaft. So I taped it in place. I used masking tape. Electrical tape seems always to come loose on the end of the wraps. (Another use for masking tape.)

Also, I got tired (I'm taking meds for this tiredness, but they're not quite kicking in yet ) tired of the Powder Trickler scooting across the bench while I was twisting the knob.

I filled the base with lead shot and then capped it with plain old wall plaster. That adds several oz. to the base. It's much nicer.

Oh yeah . . . I date and number my "load sessions." That way I can find the data in the load book when I'm looking at a box of reloaded ammo at the range.

My load book for 223 Ackley Improved is looking more and more like a the journals I see students keeping in lab work for science classes. I use a bound spiral and enter load sessions on the right hand pages. This leaves the facing page blank for range notes.

I date my chrono tapes and put them in a small envelope, stapled to the load book page.

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.223 Ackley Improved Wildcat Forum:
http://www.hotboards.com/plus/plus.mirage?who=223ackleyimproved

[This message has been edited by Genghis (edited 04-29-2002).]

Ok this may be old hat but I just learned this one myself few days ago. Boy do I feel dumb. Do you know what the rings are for in your primer trays? If you get a few primers facing the wrong way, all ya have to do is slightly shake the primer tray and POOF the primer will turn over without having to touch it with your fingers. Please tell me that I was NOT the only one that didnt know this! That way I wont feel so dumb :-)