Probably been beat to death already but I just bought one and I need some data.I am trying 140gr then maybe 160gr Accubonds.I have the nosler #5 for starters but I figure there are some proven better loads out there to start with.I just ordered the redding FL dies.All responses appreciated RB

My accuracy load in my Jarrett is 62.0 grains of RL-22 on top of a 140 grain Accubond. 210M primers of course.

You can thank me later.

quote:

Originally posted by Hank H.:
My accuracy load in my Jarrett is 62.0 grains of RL-22 on top of a 140 grain Accubond. 210M primers of course.

You can thank me later.

Hank what kind of MV are you getting with that load?

In MY rifle;
61.2 gr RL 22 and a 150 Nosler BT gives me sub 1" at 100 yds and under 2" at 200 yds. With 3100-3120 fps.

Same load but with a partition works as well but slightly larger groups.

FN

I've experimented extensively with the 280 AI (26" barrel). Best load to date is 67 grs. Re25 with 150 bullets (NBT and NPT). Vel. = 3250 fps.

Ackley this rifle has a 26" tube.Any data with the 140gr&160gr Accubonds?

Ruttinbuck, the Accubonds, NBTs, Speer, and Sierra BTs are the same on the PSI/Velocity curve in my gun. LRB=Lost River Ballistic. Re25 is a great powder with the 280 AI, and I've tried them all!

Nonetheless, posted below are VERY HOT loads, and I would NOT go past 3350 fps with a 140 gr. bullet, NOT go past 3250 with a 150 gr. bullet, and NOT go past 3150 with a 160 gr. bullet!

I believe, when loading HOT, you should be chronographing all your loads.

Powder/grs/bullet/fps/comments

R25…65.5 140LRB 3260 HVA [Poor Accuracy]
R25…66.0 140 NBT 3274 OK Pockets
R25…66.0 140 LRB 3314 OK Pockets
R25…66.0 140 LRB 3335 SAKO Pres OK
R25…66.0 140 SiBT 3211/3256 Accurate
R25…66.5 140 SBT 3205/3271 Accurate
R25…66.5 140 LRB 3287/3257 HVA
R25…67.0 140 LRB 3334 accurate
R25…67.0 140 SiBT 3405/3329

R25…66.0 145 SpeerBT 3310/3310/3283
R25…66.0 145 SpeerBT 3246/3232 OK pockets
R25…67.5 145 SpeerBT 3292 OK pockets
R25…68.0 145 SpeerBT 3357/3270

R25… 64.5 160 SpeerFB 3173 (SAKO Max)
R25… 64.5 160 LRB 3205 (SAKO MAX!TOO HOT!)
R25… 65.0 160 SpeerFB 3085 (HVA)
R25… 65.0 160 LRB 3139 (HVA – Maximum!)
R25… 66.0 160 SpeerFB 3179 (HVA)
R25… 66.0 160 SpeerBT 3198 (HVA - Maximum!)

I've got two 280 AIs - one Sako and one HVA with match grade barrels. Clearly, they shoot a bit differently - your gun will too! Work up to these loads. Good luck!

quote:

R25… 64.5 160 SpeerFB 3173 (SAKO Max)
R25… 64.5 160 LRB 3205 (SAKO MAX!TOO HOT!)
R25… 65.0 160 SpeerFB 3085 (HVA)
R25… 65.0 160 LRB 3139 (HVA – Maximum!)
R25… 66.0 160 SpeerFB 3179 (HVA)
R25… 66.0 160 SpeerBT 3198 (HVA - Maximum!)

Ackley Improved User those 160 Gr. loads look pretty impressive.

thanks Ackley.these numbers are incredible.If I use any of your data i will start 3-4gr low just to see how my barrel likes the RL25.RB

Some Words About Pressure from Varmint Al

(I'm not Varmint Al, but I like his approach to controlling PSI for reloading. I've used this approach for decades without problems, except for a rare blown primer, which does not cause much harm to your gun - that is, unless it happens often and upon which bolt-face pitting may occur).

There are numerous variables that would lead to an overpressure condition. One of the main considerations is the hardness of the cartridge brass in the case head region. Full Hard brass has a yield stress of about 63 KSI and the pressure would have to exceed that value to cause yielding. (I recommend Lapua or RWS brass.) Many of the modern calibers typically operate at 65 KSI, and very slight yielding occurs in the case head. Extractor dimpling and case head expansion are two of the results.

Primer flattening can occur at moderate pressures if the head space is a bit on the large side. At ignition the primer backs out and then is reinserted when the high pressure occurs. The primer cups are not nearly as hard as the case head and this process will flatten the primers.

To get loose primers, you have to be well above the yield stress of the brass. That would be considerably above say 63 KSI. Like I say, too many variables.

Here are some words of wisdom on pressure signs:

1. Primer cratering and flattening are not the best indicators of pressure. If the cartridge/chamber combination have a bit of headspace, this can make a primer look flatter. Some primers are harder than others. A weak firing pin spring or a poor fit of pin tip and hole can make a primer crater.
2. About the same time you feel the bolt handle a little harder to open, you will encounter marks on the brass, corresponding to ejector ports. This indicates for practical purposes you are a little too hot.
3. Brass starts to flow about 63-65,000 psi. Measuring expansion at the web is a more scientific way of doing it. Stop and back up the load a bit when the actual web of the extractor groove expands.
4. Loose primer pockets are quite a bit too much pressure. Don't confuse the area of the back of the case that expands with the thick web.
5. Maybe not the best way, but it's served me well through many thousands of rounds and dozens of chamberings. I load at the range. Take 5 pieces of brass to load over and over. Starting at a safe level slowly work up [with the same 5 cases] until primer pockets loosen, STOP. Throw this brass away. Now with 5 new pieces, drop a grain or so and load/fire 5 times. If pockets are still sound you're working right at the top-end MAX for that brass, that powder, that bullet, that temp, etc. (Lyman manual accepts load/fire 3 times, and if pockets are sound [ie., hold the primer], you’re OK). I know of no instance where this wouldn't be safe.
6. Primer pocket loosening is the best way that I know of to catch case-head expansion - with a hand seating tool one can often feel expansion before one can measure with a caliper. Plus case heads are not round.
7. I'm not a proponent of shooting max, but one must KNOW where it is, and some guns shoot best there.
8. Primer flattening has never been much good for me. Due to various machining differences some brands of action will experience brass failure prior to reaching this point.
9. Sticky bolt at BOTTOM of throw will be coupled with shiny deformed or scraped spots somewhere on case-head - too hot.
10. Sticky bolt at TOP of throw is another matter, could be due to tapered factory case, lack of lube on primary extraction ramp, or in the case of a custom action without ejector could be a sign of REALLY high pressure. No gun I've heard of will run this hot without very short primer pocket life.
11. This is word-for-word out of the Sinclair Precision Reloading & Shooting Handbook, a $13.00 investment and a lot of great info. Signs of excessive pressure:

1) Primers cratering severely or flowing back around the firing pin hole
2) Blown out primers
3) Gas leakage around primer, pitting on bolt face
4) Enlarged primer pocket
5) Case head expansion
6) Shortened case life
7) Ejector or extractor marks clearly visible on the case head
8) New cases are hard to extract after firing

Good Hunting from Al Harral (Varmint Al)
Al@VarmintAl.com
Varmint Al's Hunting Page
http://www.varmintal.com/ahunt.htm
Gun Rights & Politics Page
http://www.varmintal.com/apoli.htm

ruttinbuck

Another possible source of data is Alliant. I'd call and see if they will put you in touch with someone in their tech support. 800-276-9337 Lots of times these folks has some very good data that hasn't made it to the reloading manuals yet. I know for certain powders like RL 25 can be hard to find data on in the not so common calibers.