The Accurate Reloading Forums
RCBS LUBE DIE, buy or not to buy?
18 February 2009, 10:33
James KainRCBS LUBE DIE, buy or not to buy?
I was wondering if anyone uses the RCBS LUBE DIE? If so is it worth the investment? Or should I just keep rolling on my lube pad? What other kinda choices are there out there to use?
The fallowing link is to RCBS site where looking at the die #2
RCBS LUBE DIE#2
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19 February 2009, 04:44
Jim C. <><I don't care for that die. While necks need very little lube (bottle neck cases), they do need some and the lube die sorta misses that area.
I quit using a lube pad some 45 years ago, shortly after I started loading. It just collected too much grit, dust, etc. For the next many years, I tipped my fingers in a spot of case lube and rubbed the lube on each case as I picked it up.
Now I use one of the waxes. They all work, Imperial, Unique, Kiwi Neutral shoe wax, "Mink Oil" and "Snow-Proff" boot treatments. (Even "Chapstick" but it's really too hard - and expensive - to use easily as a case lube!)
The various waxes work very good, easy to apply, no lube dents, it's clean and easy to wipe off afterwards. It's much better than any lube pad, or an exensive spray, for me.
19 February 2009, 06:19
vipI tried the lube die years ago when they first came out. Didn't have much luck with it though. I couldn't get the right amount of lube on the case, either too much or not enough. I can roll a half dozen or so across the lube pad faster. I clean my brass prior to lubing and either roll them across a lube pad or sometimes I use the spray on. I keep an old loading tray just for spray lubing. Hope this helps. Paul.
19 February 2009, 06:31
James KainThanks guys! I have a bunch of the kiwi neutral wax from when I was in the army to clean my boots before polishing and something to make shine better after. So I will try that, Sounds much easier then the rest of the methods, best part is it will not get everywhere and collect dust. Man the times I v had to clean my equipment because of it picking up dirt. Guess that's what I get for using a old horse stall in a old barn as my shop. Any heating ideas? Just kidding its temp till I buy my new place.
Thanks and Best of Luck to you
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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
24 March 2009, 22:49
James Kainquote:
Originally posted by Jim C. <><:
I don't care for that die. While necks need very little lube (bottle neck cases), they do need some and the lube die sorta misses that area.
I quit using a lube pad some 45 years ago, shortly after I started loading. It just collected too much grit, dust, etc. For the next many years, I tipped my fingers in a spot of case lube and rubbed the lube on each case as I picked it up.
Now I use one of the waxes. They all work, Imperial, Unique, Kiwi Neutral shoe wax, "Mink Oil" and "Snow-Proff" boot treatments. (Even "Chapstick" but it's really too hard - and expensive - to use easily as a case lube!)
The various waxes work very good, easy to apply, no lube dents, it's clean and easy to wipe off afterwards. It's much better than any lube pad, or an exensive spray, for me.
OK I know its been a little while and I hope JimC will reply. I was looking at my can of saddle soap. It is made with wax, do you think that will work? Or do you think I'd be better off going and getting the clear boot wax?
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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
24 March 2009, 22:52
tasunkawitkoi haven't used one so don't take my word for it, but it looks like a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.
quote:
I quit using a lube pad some 45 years ago, shortly after I started loading. It just collected too much grit, dust, etc. For the next many years, I tipped my fingers in a spot of case lube and rubbed the lube on each case as I picked it up.
this is exactly what lee advises.
24 March 2009, 23:01
SR4759When the lube die was first described I figured it would not do much for the neck on a bottle necked case. I just apply Imperial with my fingers. This is one part of the process that I long ago quit thinking about.
24 March 2009, 23:12
seafire2Frying pan, spray in some synthetic spray lube from Amzoil or equivalent..
hang pan on edge of bench with a rug or rag underneath so the excess drains off...
use a bore brush on a pistol cleaning rod to lube case necks...
tumble cases afterwards to remove lube, or can even just rub them down a little with a shop rag, that works good enough...
those type of lubes from RCBS etc, are a real pain to work with and a real mess...
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24 March 2009, 23:43
James KainI just like the idea of the boot wax because I have a shit load of it from when I got of the army 6 years ago. I m not looking to use the black kiwi but the saddle soap, which dose have the wax in it. I still use quite a bit of it to keep my boots from falling apart on me. So If I can find something the doubles its use I d be all over it. To me it seems that it would be hell of a lot easier to clean off the case and maybe help keep the tarnish at bay too. So that there gives it 3 uses.
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Hunter, trapper, machinest, gamer, angler, and all around do it your selfer.
Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
25 March 2009, 00:21
Winchester 69James,
I was thinking saddle soap when you were saying "shoe polish." Never heard of anyone trying that one. If you have a stuck case puller, you might try it and let us know if it works. Otherwise, I'd suggest trying the Mink Oil. It'll waterproof your boots where the saddle soap won't.
I've heard of Crisco being used. You can size your brass while baking cornbread (a Southern delicacy, buy not so far south that 303Guy would know of it.) Kangaroo Krap?
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25 March 2009, 01:54
p dog shooterI use midway spray lube haven't rolled a case in years and have loaded thousands of rounds. Spray lube works great.
25 March 2009, 02:03
vapodogquote:
Originally posted by p dog shooter:
I use midway spray lube haven't rolled a case in years and have loaded thousands of rounds. Spray lube works great.
I used spray lube too...Lyman and liked it a lot.....I still use some but Roger convinced me that Imperial die wax is the way to go......the darn stuff works very good
I'm not into rolling on a pad or lube dies at all.
been there.....won't go there again.
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25 March 2009, 03:18
Jim C. <><quote:
I hope JimC will reply. I was looking at my can of saddle soap. It is made with wax, do you think that will work? Or do you think I'd be better off going and getting the clear boot wax?
Interesting idea, the soap. May work but I haven't tried it...maybe YOU can tell US!
Try it. If the case seems to be getting harder to size than normal stop or you WILL have a stuck case!
I fully agree with Winchester 69 about the Mink "Oil", it's very good stuff. Can use Kiwi shoe wax in colors too, but messes your fingers up and makes them look like you've been spit shining those boots!

25 March 2009, 04:04
jkingrphAbout a month ago I was reforming 2000 cases from 7.62x39 to 6.5 Grendel, usiing Imperial die sizing wax. It was a bit slow so I tried spraying the cases with some Dupont teflon/silicon spray lube and it worked, so I sprayed the whole batch, shook them up and proceeded, much faster with no problems. I did use a NECO case neck moly lube evey 12-15 cases.
JJK
25 March 2009, 04:10
jkingrphquote:
I hope JimC will reply. I was looking at my can of saddle soap. It is made with wax, do you think that will work? Or do you think I'd be better off going and getting the clear boot wax?
Interesting idea, the soap. May work but I haven't tried it...maybe YOU can tell US!
Try it. If the case seems to be getting harder to size than normal stop or you WILL have a stuck case!
I fully agree with Winchester 69 about the Mink "Oil", it's very good stuff. Can use Kiwi shoe wax in colors too, but messes your fingers up and makes them look like you've been spit shining those boots!
I would think again about saddle soap. It does contain some waxes and oils but also has a soap component which is alkaline and is corrosive to brass and the dies. Consider how a brass fitting in a piece of leather turns green!
JJK
25 March 2009, 04:13
ted thornI have used Hornady spray lube and liked it O.K. and started useing Imperial wax last year and like it also.
The pads hold dirt so I dont like them.
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25 March 2009, 04:49
mjbgalti will never use anything but the hornady spray wax, One Shot.
it's easy and quick and isn't slimy, no cleanup, no smell.
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