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Thanks for a great place to learn about reloading Im looking to get started in reloading, so besides being a pest on here what are the best places for the beginer I guess the first place to start is a manual, but what one? a bullet manufacturer or powder manufacturer? Ive thought about the Lee Modern reloading book is it a good book? Thanks for any info
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 01 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Welcome to the forum. And yes, there's a wealth of knowledge here. The 2 manuals I'd recommend would be Lyman's and/or Sierra's. I think all the manuals are pretty good really.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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You sound like your on the right track. I too recomend Lyman's reloading book there newest being the 49th edition. I also like Hornadys books too. For those of us like myself that need eyes on stuff you can find a great DVD from RCBS!
rcbs.com but I recomend you go else where to buy it like http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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It's hard to beat a Lyman book as they cover about everything. The other books are good too, but they never let one forget that they are selling bullets.
 
Posts: 3889 | Registered: 12 May 2005Reply With Quote
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Roll EyesOf all the manuals I have, I refere to Modern Reloading second edition by Robert Lee the most. He uses everybody's data and it has a good instructive intro. beerroger


Old age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone..
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by bartsche:
Roll EyesOf all the manuals I have, I refere to Modern Reloading second edition by Robert Lee the most. He uses everybody's data and it has a good instructive intro. beerroger


+1

muck
 
Posts: 1052 | Location: Southern OHIO USA | Registered: 17 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by muck:
quote:
Originally posted by bartsche:
Roll EyesOf all the manuals I have, I refere to Modern Reloading second edition by Robert Lee the most. He uses everybody's data and it has a good instructive intro. beerroger


+1

muck


-1!!
I almost killed my self using the cheap plastic equipment in the Anniversary Reloading Kit!


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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I need to get a copy of Modern Reloading myself. I'm kind of hooked on the bigbores so as far as reloading manuals I reference A-Square's Any Shot You Want, The Barnes Reloading Manual #4 and a good friends loading software which has been priceless for working up data. There are a few others in my inventory but they have limited information for the big guns. Having several loading manuals is not a bad idea and the software available is really nice. Rodney.



 
Posts: 1049 | Location: Cut-n-Shoot, Texas USA | Registered: 15 January 2006Reply With Quote
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what software do you use? I have been thinking about it but it seems to be a bit pricey here and there.


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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Muddy,

Any of the reloading manuals well do. It’s the fundamentals that you need to learn first. Buy one and read it, then buy another one and read it too. It well help you greatly in understanding the reloading process and why.
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Get a few manuals, and also get The ABC's of Reloading. Read it cover to cover. Use a highlighter to mark important parts. Do this before you buy any equipment. Then decide what you need and shop for it. Compared to others here, I am a novice, but I've learned a hell of a lot from everybody on here. No question is dumb when it comes to this. After all, it is your life you're dealing with. One mistake can be one too many. I can say that I've thoroughly enjoyed my time at the bench, and look for many many more hours, days, and years doing it.

What calibers are you wanting to load?


FiSTers... Running is useless.
 
Posts: 315 | Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas | Registered: 01 July 2005Reply With Quote
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So after the manuals who's equipment to buy?
Can I get started with a Lee c press or is it not strong enough?
Should I buy neck sizing dies since Im going to use brass out of my own guns or full size?
Do you have to full size new brass?
I guess I could drive you guys nuts with questions so Ill get the manuals then we'll see how it goes
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 01 February 2009Reply With Quote
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In my opinion I recommend starting with RCBS, or Hornady.
But if price is a issue Lyman. all 3 are wicked good places to start.
If your not ordering online you can always go to the gun shop and see what everyone has to say or recommend.


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Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Sorry forget to mention 38/357, 204 ruger and 270 win
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 01 February 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Muddy Buck:
So after the manuals, whose equipment to buy?
Can I get started with a Lee C press, or is it not strong enough?


Some people's equipment is better made than others. Forster and Redding are known for their dies and presses. Redding also has a good powder measure. RCBS has Ohaus beam scales (505, 10-10, 502). Unless you are financially constrained, you'll be better off not buying on price. Lee's C press is great for de-capping away from your main press; don't have any great expectations for it otherwise. I use Redding's Boss press for calibers similar to your own.

You can get started with a press, a beam scale, a set of Lee powder dippers, and a Redding trickler (it's heavy). A few case prep tools and perhaps a hand-held priming tool, eventually a case trimmer, and you're in business. What I'm doing here is steering you away from a kit. I suggest that you learn enough beforehand to choose your own tools.

Avoid getting involved with powder measures until you know your powder preferences and loading volumes. The favored rifle powders generally don't meter well, and you will be ahead by ascertaining your needs prior to investing. Your handgun loading volume may hasten this decision.

quote:
Should I buy neck sizing dies since I'm going to use brass out of my own guns, or full size?
Do you have to full size new brass?

Neck sizing will prolong brass life. If you're shooting high-volume target loads with premium brass, you may see some advantage. However, the calibers you've listed imply hunting and plinking. Nothing wrong with neck-sizing, but feed reliability for hunting suggests partial full-length sizing.

New brass should at a minimum have an expander ball run through it to even the necks. Do not full-size your brass; it should be partially sized to minimally move the shoulders back.

The better seating dies come with alignment sleeves. The Redding micrometer dies and the Forster dies have these. If your loaded rounds are confined to magazine-length, the standard Forster seating die is a bargain.

I like Hornady dies for pistol calibers. Their seater has an abbreviated sleeve, aiding straight seating. If you shoot lead bullets, a Lyman "M" die can replace the belling die.

Small bullets can be a pain to seat. RCBS's Competition seaters have a "window" that simplify seating (they also have an alignment sleeve). I would wait on doing anything with this calibre until you have enough loading experience to determine your needs here.

Get a Sinclair catalog (free from their website). It'll show you the better equipment and accessories, and the prices.

Learn as much as you can up front and have fun.


________________________
"Every country has the government it deserves." - Joseph de Maistre
 
Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Winchester 69:
quote:
Originally posted by Muddy Buck:
So after the manuals, whose equipment to buy?
Can I get started with a Lee C press, or is it not strong enough?


Some people's equipment is better made than others. Forster and Redding are known for their dies and presses. Redding also has a good powder measure. RCBS has Ohaus beam scales (505, 10-10, 502). Unless you are financially constrained, you'll be better off not buying on price. Lee's C press is great for de-capping away from your main press; don't have any great expectations for it otherwise. I use Redding's Boss press for calibers similar to your own.

You can get started with a press, a beam scale, a set of Lee powder dippers, and a Redding trickler (it's heavy). A few case prep tools and perhaps a hand-held priming tool, eventually a case trimmer, and you're in business. What I'm doing here is steering you away from a kit. I suggest that you learn enough beforehand to choose your own tools.

Avoid getting involved with powder measures until you know your powder preferences and loading volumes. The favored rifle powders generally don't meter well, and you will be ahead by ascertaining your needs prior to investing. Your handgun loading volume may hasten this decision.

quote:
Should I buy neck sizing dies since Im going to use brass out of my own guns, or full size?
Do you have to full size new brass?

Neck sizing will prolong brass life. If you're shooting high-volume target loads with premium brass, you may see some advantage. However, the calibers you've listed imply hunting and plinking. Nothing wrong with neck-sizing, but feed reliability for hunting suggests partial full-length sizing.

New brass should at a minimum have an expander ball run through it to even the necks. Do not full-size your brass; it should be partially sized to minimally move the shoulders back.

The better seating dies come with alignment sleeves. The Redding micrometer dies and the Forster dies have these. If your loaded rounds are confined to magazine-length, the standard Forster seating die is a bargain.

I like Hornady dies for pistol calibers. Their seater has an abbreviated sleeve, aiding straight seating. If you shoot lead bullets, a Lyman "M"-die can replace the belling die.

Small bullets can be a pain to seat. RCBS's Competition seaters have a "window" that simplify seating (they also have an alignment sleeve). I would wait on doing anything with this calibre until you have enough loading experience to determine your needs here.

Get a Sinclair catalog (free from their website). It'll show you the better equipment and accessories, and the prices.

Learn as much as you can up front and have fun.


I like this guy, sounds like a good one to keep around. Wink Big Grin


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by James Kain:
quote:
Originally posted by muck:
quote:
Originally posted by bartsche:
Roll EyesOf all the manuals I have, I refere to Modern Reloading second edition by Robert Lee the most. He uses everybody's data and it has a good instructive intro. beerroger


+1

muck


-1!!
I almost killed my self using the cheap plastic equipment in the Anniversary Reloading Kit!


James
Reread bartsche's post.
No where was there any mention of anything other than Lee's reloading manual.

.

muck
 
Posts: 1052 | Location: Southern OHIO USA | Registered: 17 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by muck:
James
Re-read Bartsche's post.
Nowhere was there any mention of anything other than Lee's reloading manual.

Muck,
Don't shoot the messenger. wave

I doubt that most people really understand the function of Lee products in the marketplace. The following dissertation is from a posting of mine on another forum, which I'll repeat here.

In the marketing world, it has been recognized that there are a finite number of strategies. One is that of the low-cost producer. Every aspect of the business must be guided toward minimal cost to the consumer. Production, materials, labor, design and service must all be compromised to varying extents to satisfy that customer. The occasional saving grace comes with innovation in design and production efficiency/economy. Characteristic of the low-cost strategy is that there is only one producer that succeeds; the low margin makes it unprofitable for all but the most cost efficient to survive. Richard Lee dominates in the reloading market, and no others can gain entry to the price conscious segment's wallets as long as he maintains minimal profit.

Lee has succeeded through design with three products. His Collet Die and Perfect Powder Measure are duplicated by no others. His AutoPrime's basic design is copied by K&M and Sinclair, both producers of upscale products that don't compete in Lee's market. If Lee were to upgrade his AutoPrime, Collet Die and PPM, accompanied by a commensurate price increase, he would lose his own segment.

The compromises in Lee's products are acceptable only to those who find his price attractive, with the exception of the three designs discussed. Those looking for service and robust products keep the other manufacturers in business.


________________________
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Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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Muck this and true, and Winchester 69 all I have to say is ....DAMN.... Wish this was not true! But you know WalMart aka HELL has that market too! With little competition from the "dollar stores"
Eeker


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Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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My friends have both "Qickload" and "Load From a Disc". I'm going over next week to sit down in front of his computer to see what I can make out of his "Load From A Disc" program. These programs are pretty handy in the way you can develope your own cartridge and set the standards in which you want to load with. An example was with the .505Gibbs. I was starving for load data on this beast and did not want to use filler, so with the help of a good friend and his "Quickload" program we/he was able to set up the desired loads with all availlable powders and a particular bullet at 100% load density. Data came up with 34 different powder/load combinations from 99% to 102% load density with same bullet. Quite the handy program. I do not own one of these programs at the moment, but will be in the market very soon. Rodney.



 
Posts: 1049 | Location: Cut-n-Shoot, Texas USA | Registered: 15 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Muddy Buck, Welcome aboard AR!

This place has been around for ~10 years. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING has already been discussed many times over. Do yourself a favor and use our 'search' function. That way you'll get the benefit of 10 years worth of knowledge rather than just who responded after reading your first post TODAY. I'm not trying to deter you from asking questions, just that there is a wealth of info in our archives ready to be tapped.

I believe there is more than one comprehensive list compiled by AR members in the archives showing newbies like yourself the proper direction to get started in this hobby. It should be a sticky, but isn't.
 
Posts: 4799 | Location: Lehigh county, PA | Registered: 17 October 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the input guys at this point Ive got a lot of reading to do so Ill backburner the desire to run out and buy a bunch of stuff,but hows ebay can you buy useful used eqiupment or do they sell it because it might not be up to par?
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 01 February 2009Reply With Quote
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for me ebay has always been hit or miss. due to the fact that you may over pay or it is damaged.
although you do get lucky but just keep your eye on it.
I do recommend in hitting the road in seeing what is out in your area.


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
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Hunter, trapper, machinest, gamer, angler, and all around do it your selfer.
Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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