So all you have to do is heat the neck to a dull red then let them cool normally. Right? Am I missing anything? I've got 5 reloads on my 375 imp and was thinking it would be time to anneal before I have any problems. Any imput would be helpful
Thanks

to anneal I prep my cases. i used a tuna can for a while.
filled with water so it is about 2/3 upon the case.
in a low lite room with a torch heat the neck turning the can until it turns a slight orange to red color. knock the case over in the water to stop the heat at that point.
used this method for years
I trier do this by holding to case with my fingers but they always got to soft. due to thick caluses and numb fingers from wrenching for so many years.

You can't let them air cool, as the heat traveling to the head will make it soft and weak.Cool in water just as soon as it is up to the annealing temp.That won't affect the annealing.Ed

Here is a link to the best and safest way to properly anneal cases.....Ken Howell is "da man".

http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/jun96cases.html

Instead of high temperature ttreatment (annealing) you may want to consider reforming at lower temperatures:

http://wildcatshooting.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=159#159

I heard of a way where you hold the case in your fingers rotating it constantly with the tip in the flame of a candle. When it get too hot to hold you toss it in a bowl of water to cool it fast. This would be an easy way to do it but I kind of doubt that the metal would get hot enough to actually anneal it that way but Im definately not an expert. maybe you could do the same thing but use a blow torch set on a low flame, that way it would at least get hotter than a candle can get it. Anyone try either of these ways?

Do you guys usually anneal NEW brass before you load it or do you shoot it once or twice before you first anneal it? I hear that the largest stress on brass is the first fireing because it has to stretch alot more to fit the chamber of your particular gun so maybe it would be good to anneal it before you do this. Maybe the experts will chime in.

New brass has already been annealed at the factory. The commercial loaders then polish off the oxidation. The military requires it to be left so they can see that it was done.

I use a brownie pan, fill with an inch or so of water, set the brass in it, heat the neck till it changes color, then knock it over with the torch head.

A few years ago this topic came up and a flurry of insults and hurt feelings ensued. Some folks don�t understand the process, however, it is quite simple in both principal and application.

If you are only reloading factory brass 3 or 4 times, annealing is not necessary. However, if you would like to extend the life of your brass, then annealing is necessary to avoid split necks. For those of us who shoot wildcat or proprietary cartridges, you either have invested many hours forming brass or lots of money on expensive brass. Either way, annealing saves a lot of time and expense in the long run.

There is no mystery or magic to annealing. It is not difficult or very time consuming. The benefits are easy to see and annealing does improve bullet release and accuracy - both proven facts.

To properly anneal brass you must raise the temperature of the brass to at least 670 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a propane torch to heat quickly - you do not want the heat to migrate down the case. If this happens, it can soften the case base and web area - something you want to avoid. Some folks recommend that you use a temp stick (like a crayon) or a temp paint to judge the proper temperature. Both are available at your local welding supply house. The paint is much easier to apply. While these can help in getting started with annealing, they are not necessary as long as you are not color blind.

I anneal in a low lit room. This makes it easier to judge the color temperature of the brass. As you heat the brass in a flame you will see it take on a shine and then a blue wash color. This is caused by the brass re-crystalizing (annealing as we call it). Soon thereafter the brass begins to glow a deep, dark red< !--color-->. This is as hot as you want to get the brass. IF the brass turns brighter cherry red< !--color-->, you have over-heated the brass and this can make it too soft to seat bullets or to obtain much neck tension.

There are two tricks to annealing - heat quick and cool quick. This ensures that the heat will not run down the case body. To do this properly use a very hot flame (no candles) and a tub of water. Rotate the neck of the case in the blue tip of the propane flame until you see the blue wash and the deep red glow, then toss it in the water. For large cases you can hold the base of the brass with your fingers. For smaller cases you should use gloves - 6PPC = OUCH.

There is a lot of data on annealing and its benefits. A-Square tested the annealing process and the improvements gained in accuracy, chamber pressure, and velocity SD. You can find this information in their book - Any Shot You Want. The best way to get started is to practice and experiment on old brass. Over heat a few cases and then use plyers to crush the neck. You will quickly see a noticeable difference in neck strength and you will find that it is possible to get it too hot.

In no time you will become a Zen Master at annealing. There is nothing to it.

COMPLETELY and TOTALLY agree with Zero Drift.



I was involved in that thread to which he refers, as was Howell. Some folks try to make it far more complicated than it is. Practice on some old useless brass and you are an expert in 5 or 6 tries. I anneal exactly as Zero Drift does, every 4 reloads or so and the benefits are readily apparent, both on paper and in your pocketbook. Only difference between ZD and me is our perception of color of the brass when you rapidly cool it. I work on polished brass. When the shine gets a dull appearance, I drop it in the water bucket. At that point you see the telltale blue ring below the shoulder.

I ai� for the poit between losing shine and the initial phase of dark red - when seen in daylight, you'll have then the blue shine on the cases - well - with my 577-450's at least...

Bottle neck cases have been annealed in the factory already to form shoulder and neck. So I see no need to anneal new cases.

Has anyone ever put there cases in water up to the shoulder, and anneal with a torch then knock the cases over? Or this too cumbersome to see the dull color?

BC - Brass is such a good conductor, you may need to lower the water level a little below the shoulder. Otherwise, you may not be able to heat up the neck enough. The reason why I like to use my hands is I am able to rotate the neck in the flame. This ensures even heating. It is probably easier to rotate the case than to rotate the flame around the neck in a pan of water. My suggestion is to try it both ways and do whichever is easier and quicker.



I usually wait until I have 100 or so cases ready to anneal and then do them all at one time. I have never timed myself, but the hand rotate method takes no time at all.