Digital scales evaluation

29 August 2014, 00:23

I've used a Dillon balance beam scale ever since I started reloading.

As a final check to make sure there is actually powder in there, after loading, I'd like to weight the round.

I'd like to stay under $100.00 if possible. I've read the evaluations on Midway for various scales. Lyman Micro-touch seems to be getting the best ratings.

Any electronic scale users here?

29 August 2014, 00:35

FMC

I actually use a jewelers scale, which goes +/- 0.05 gr. That precision is unnecessary.

But when I checked my RCBS scale it is more or less spot on the +/- 0.1 gr. From what I've read most of those are generic scales with differing packaging and they all do their job.

Accuracy is irrelevant as long as you charge each cartridge the same.

29 August 2014, 01:41

Texas Killartist

It really depends on how accurate you want/need to be. If you are not weighing your brass, bullets and powder charges, just use a beam scale from any of the big reloading companies. They will be accurate enough to tell if there is powder in a cartridge.A good digital scale will be well beyond $100.00.

29 August 2014, 01:54

Rusty

I have had a couple of electronic scales in the past. I, like you, checked everything on a beam scale.
My advice is to just get one of these and then you don't have to worry. Dandy powder trickler .

Seriously! I use LEE powder measure kit to dip the charge into the pan. Press the button and it works the same way every time! And it's fast!
Oh, well! I'm ranting again!

Rusty
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29 August 2014, 02:17

wasbeeman

When I finish charging the cases, I put the whole rack under a bright light and make sure that the powder level is consistant in all of the cases. I've weighed finished cartridges for other reasons but never to see if there was powder inside.

29 August 2014, 04:28

deltam

What got this front and center is I had my first ever squib in 4 years of reloading. I was working up different loads for my .40 S&W for use on my can. What I've done before with my 9mm is load a few, then check to see if they cycle. Then shoot a few at paper to check for key-holes. Then try them with my can.

I have a Dillon 550B progressive. Somehow loading one at a time got me out of sink. I have a light over my powder dropper and normally look at the powder before moving on to the next station. Taking the charged brass off the press before moving to the bullet seating station I somehow got an empty brass.

I punched out the squib with an aluminum cleaning rod so all turned out well. I didn't shoot a round behind the squib.

It got my attention and lesson learned. I checked all the rest of these loads on my bean scale, sorting by brand to make sure there were no more surprises.

The digital scale just seemed like a quick way to do a double check.

29 August 2014, 04:52

SR4759

Brass can vary a good bit in weight so that will not help when you wind up with both heavy and light cases in the same batch.
You would be better off to develop a more robust loading process.
Using your same press one day I loaded 14 boxes of 45 ACP. One round had no powder. Maintaining your concentration round after boring round can be difficult when loading that much ammo.
After that I changed to a case activated measure.
I would prefer a fully progressive press rather than the Dillon 550B.

quote:
Originally posted by deltam:
What got this front and center is I had my first ever squib in 4 years of reloading. I was working up different loads for my .40 S&W for use on my can. What I've done before with my 9mm is load a few, then check to see if they cycle. Then shoot a few at paper to check for key-holes. Then try them with my can.

I have a Dillon 550B progressive. Somehow loading one at a time got me out of sink. I have a light over my powder dropper and normally look at the powder before moving on to the next station. Taking the charged brass off the press before moving to the bullet seating station I somehow got an empty brass.

I punched out the squib with an aluminum cleaning rod so all turned out well. I didn't shoot a round behind the squib.

It got my attention and lesson learned. I checked all the rest of these loads on my bean scale, sorting by brand to make sure there were no more surprises.

The digital scale just seemed like a quick way to do a double check.

29 August 2014, 05:22

wistrapper

I started with a beam scale, went to electronic, and am now back to a beam.

I wont be going to an electronic any time in the next 100 years or so. There may be a good electronic scale being built these days but I'm done speding money trying to find one!

29 August 2014, 05:25

243winxb

http://www.thehighroad.org/sho...9750&highlight=scale

29 August 2014, 05:26

deltam

Something else. I had just filled the hopper the day before with powder. I've noticed in the past after powder sits for a day it settles throwing the weight off. I filled three cases, dump them back in the hopper, then weigh and adjust after the third. Trying to make to many changes at one time, too.

29 August 2014, 05:55

SR4759

Some powders can absorb a little moisture making the charge out of a measure a little heavier.
The double base powders will often attack your powder hopper too.

quote:
Originally posted by deltam:
Something else. I had just filled the hopper the day before with powder. I've noticed in the past after powder sits for a day it settles throwing the weight off. I filled three cases, dump them back in the hopper, then weigh and adjust after the third. Trying to make to many changes at one time, too.

29 August 2014, 14:39

Andre Mertens

I note a minus .1 g difference on my electronic scale as compared to my 45 years old Lyman M5 (made by Ohaus). The latter reads the exact weight of known control weights.

I'll keep referring to my old beam scale for checking rifle loads and reserve the faster working electronic for weighting bullets or spot verifying loads when loading for handguns on my Dillon XL650.