I have collected 7-08 brass from Federal, Remington, and Winchester when I was trying out different factory loads. I finally have my reloading equipment ready to go. The question is can I safely mix the brass when reloading or do I need to keep the brass separate and treat each as a different load even though the powder, bullets and primer will be the same??? Will mixing the brass significantly impact accuracy??

If this is a problem I will just buy some new brass but which brand? I am leaning toward winchester as the remington brass used with the factory loads were pretty rough. What do you guys like??

Thanks for the help.

Ok, 2 things to consider:

Safety... no problems for starting/mild loads. Do not mix for max loads!

Accuracy....segregate the brass for accuracy.

You can get into serious trouble mixing brass.....while I suspect you're fine with the mix you suggested I assure you that mixing with military brass (necked down .308) can be a very bad situation.

I recommend this...sell the brass at the local shop for a few bucks and put in an order for Remington (or whatever) brass through midsouth, midway, or other. Get a hundred brass all the same from one lot.

Once again it seems I'm odd man out. You are not going to get your most consistant accuracy -read groups- with mixed lots of brass but the commercial brass will be close enough in size to accomadate the same load. Nor are you going to blow yourself up. If you're working close to the top end , you may have a problem with flat primers with one brand and not with another but by and large, they'll work. I agree with the statement that GI brass should be treated seperately. Why not seperate your brass into batches by headstamp then work up a good load at 90-95% of max and load them all up. Then when you're shooting paper, group your cartridges according to headstamp. This may help you decide which brand to go with when you buy bulk brass.

Once, as a just to see project, I loaded a batch of mixed headstamp cartridges with the same load. I then shot them drawing blindly from a bag. For a hunting application, it would have made no difference at all. As I remember, they shot into a 2" or less group.

I load the exact same 243 load in R-P brass for my gun and in Winchester brass for my daughter's gun. Shooting both loads in MY gun the R-P brass shows minimum case expansion and no primer or case head indications of pressure. The identical weight and length Win brand cases show increased case expansion, flatter primers and the ejector notch shiny spot when fired in my Savage 110CL.
It also groups the Win brass loads 1/2" right and 1/4" high at 100 yards from my zero setting for the RP brass, so there are some significant differences in case construction between the two brands/lots.

If you were using factory loads, just put the empty brass back in the box it came in, reload it and keep it in the same box.
Federal brass seems to be softer, I would never buy it, but it is what is issued at Garand and Springfield matches at Camp Perry, I dont get many reload out of it. The surplus brass is strong, but you wont find it in your caliber.
In my experiance, after GI brass, Remington then Winchester, I wouldnt hesitate buying either.

Then i reloaded norma brass in 308w i found that brass marked 308win gives a higher pressure, and 2inch higher impact than brass that is only marked 308.
My load with 44gr of norma 202 behind 180gr norma vulkan gives high pressure signs with the brass marked 308win.

Kimmo

I HAVE ALWAYS FOUND THE WINCHESTER BRASS GIVES HIGHER AND MORE CONSISTANT VELOCITY OVER A CHRONOGRAPH THAN ANY OTHER BRASS(YES THIS INCLUDES NORMA). I ALSO GET MORE LOADS PER CASING FROM WINCHESTER. I HAVE ALSO DISCOVERED THAT IF YOU DECIDE TO TURN YOUR NECKS, THE WINCHESTER BRASS SEEMS TO BE THICKER AND MORE CONSISTANT.

I agree with Beemanbeme. Mixed commercial brass, yes. Mixed milsurp, yes. My favourite 223 load is "top of the shop" and I have several diferent brands of cases including three milsurp. Two years ago while preparing for a major comp and not having enough brass of one brand I loaded five of each with the favoured load and spent an hour or so shooting groups at 100 yards. Results= seven groups centred less than 1/4 inch from X and all less than 1/2 inch; five 3/8 inch. No decernable difference visible during post test examination.

I would sort the brass by make, then weigh the pieces. If I had any that weighed a lot more than the rest of that brand, I'd scrap them.
Regards, George.

Thanks for all the input guys! I think I will keep the brass I have, about 80 cases for plinking, and buy new brass for my hunting loads. That way I will know for sure where my hunting loads are hitting.

Back in the year of the blue snow when I was young, dumb,broke,didn't know any better, I use to pick up 30-06 brass were ever and when ever I could get it.The only time I paid attention to the rearend of the cases was when I had to open up crimped primer pockets. Once in a while I MIGHT have had a sticky case but that was about it. I probably was in greater danger by using some of the recommended max. loads in reloading manuals at the time.

I don't suggest at all that you use mixed case as I did.But if you do the probability of getting hurt really is minimum. Fallow the good advice of others and reload smarter than I did. roger