I think I want to go to the round jag patches. What sizes are you guys finding apppropiate for the following calibers; .223 .243win 25-06 .270 Lots of sizes available and thought asking here would eliminte some trial an error and $$$$$$. Would appreciate your comments and if you have a better system or don't like round patches, I'd like to hear that too. Have been a user of square patches in past but me thinks round is better..dunno?
thanks contendernut, I have the catalog and they only list one size round patch for .30 I thought maybe some with practical expierence would have a little input. Not to worry, I can get er figured out.
Most jags have a "relieve" behind the head. This is were all the excess patch ends up riding down the bore. The bore cares not a wit if this excess "fringe" is square or round.
If the patch is covering the head of the jag and the excess material is riding in the relieve, the patch is the "right" size. The "business" surface of the patch is what rides between the jag head and the bore. All the rest is fringe.
I wonder about patch thickness and what might be the best sort of weave. But that's the black powder shooter sneaking into the equation.
Genghis..appreciate the input. My question on this stuff was posed as I've never used a 'jag' and all these years just used the slotted, aluminum type. Things are a changing lately with this new rifle, although I never had any problems in the past with the way I was doing it. But haveta change and I think it will be better. Was always tired of 'undoing' the patch on the slotted ones. What you said makes a lot of sense...thanks. Also agree on the weave thing.
Alum. is first of all abrasive. That's why they make alum oxide wheels for grinding and buffing.
Second, the "eye" thingie is for running a "swab" down the bore to saturate it with solvent or to coat it with oil or some other rust inhibitor before putting the gun away.
With all the $$$ you spend on guns, ammo, and places to shoot, you should head to the shop and pick up a one piece rod and the correct size brass jag, cotton patches, etc. They're as essential to accuracy as a good load and a steady squeeze on the trigger.
I was watching some benchresters the other ay at the range clean their rifles-and I learned some things.1- dont put a dirty brush into your clean solvent can.( use a dropper to apply solvent through a port in your bore guide)2- don't exit the bore muzzle completely with brush before you pull it back through( it protect the crown at the muzzle)3 they prefer a wrap-around jag(instead of a pierce style) because you can run it back and forth- very handy when applying JB bore paste or even when just swabbing out crud. Plus you have all of the bearing surface of the jag(1 1/2 or 1 3/4 inches doing its thing instead of the 1/2 inch or so just behind the tip. Also I'm through with Hoppes. The guy told me to use Shooter's choice and what a difference. If it doesn't get the copper out in 2 cycles, then I use Sweets . Good shooting
Have Bore Stix..don't use aluminum rod. I had in the PAST used the aluminum slotted tip. I just have never used a JAG and was just wonderin about patch size, caliber specific. Use bore guide too. Just didn't want to start a patch down the tube and end up sticking it somewhere along the way. Guess I'll just start out on the small size and see where to go from there. Nice to get all the input...never know what you will learn along the way.
Thanks Kennewick..good info. Like the tri-city area. Spent a month there one night. You guys have any long range-ranges there. I'm over here near Black Diamond and there are a couple of ranges to 500yds..just can't use them except for match..go figure.
If you pull the brush back through the bore without getting it all the way out at the end of the muzzle you scrunch all the bristles from going one direction (out) to the other direction (in). Try pulling a brush out of the bore having only pushed it through to mid-point.
There's no leverage or bearing pressure on the rod as it comes out of the end of the bore. Wear comes from pushing the rod down the muzzle with the rod angled against the bore.
Yeah, you can keep your solvent cleaner by not dipping the brush into the bottle. But the brush, and the bore solvent are both going to get pushed down a dirty bore, right?
It's not like the contaminates are going to dilute or otherwise compromise the efficacy of the solvent.
About exiting the bore---- what I meant was the brush exits just past the muzzle and you retract the rod before the knurled end or the rod comes in contact w/ the crown... I never thought about before, but these guys make a habit of one-hole groups, and it made sense to listen. Dind up your crown and your accuracy diminishes exponentially
Slipnot.. I think Rattlesnake has a long range but it kind of hoaky. no target stands or stuff like that just big steel gongs.
Has anyone else tried heavy weight interfacing from your local Wallly World fabric department for cleaning patches? It seems to be the same material as a lot of the cleaning patches on the market, and only about a hundred times cheaper. With a cheap pair of scissors you can cut up a coffee can full of whatever size patches you want in no time. I was turned on to this a long time ago by a couple guys who used to benchrest. Besides being cheaper it's fun to see the strange looks you get from the sales girls.
[This message has been edited by mbk (edited 04-08-2002).]
Posts: 243 | Location: Kansas, USA | Registered: 12 March 2002
Head into JoAnne's Fabrics sometime with a caliper to measure thickness and weave on patches for black powder. I mean, this place is wall-to-wall domestic "mommy" types and you're in there with the micrometer, looking at mattress tickin-- "for my rifle."
I use GI patches. Got 10,000 of them at a reasonable price. They are square. Since the military always uses the best of everything (don't they??), square must be better!!
