.257 Roberts, 117gn spbt Hornady, Ruger m77. Rookie reloader.

I have been loading from the Hornady book, 44gn-47grn of RL19, at 2.78" oal, and am getting a bright spot on the case head, ejector mark. These loads are all below book max in the Hornady book, and should give velocity in the 2750-2900fps range. I have shot Hornady factory loads 117grn at 2780fps with no problems, and great accuracy. Why am I getting these bright spots on the brass? (This is once fired Frontier factory loaded brass, neck sized.)

The other manufacturer's info list 43.6-44grn of RL19 as max with the 117grn bullet weights, and max velocity in the mid 2700's fps.

Accuracy is great with my reloads, but I don't want to mangle the rifle, the brass, or me!

Is it common or even probable that I have high pressure more than 3grns under book max? Am I really going to have to settle for under 2700fps with this bullet at a safe max for my rifle?

I have no chrono to check real life speeds. Would a change in powder help lower pressure at the 2800+fps that I would like to achieve. Should I just drop to a 100grn bullet and work a new load from there?

What is also perplexing is that I have been loading reduced loads with RedDot 90grn Sierra hpbt, and from 8-11grns, still have that bright ejector mark on my brand new Win brass (neck sized). Could it be a rifle/bolt problem? Wouldn't it have also shown on the factory loads though?


Any info at all would be greatly appreciated before I blow myself up. Thanks.

IMO it's a nothing. If that is the only "sign" you have, I wouldn't worry about it. It may just be the nature of your rifle to make that mark.

That mark has been on every round I have reloaded and shot, even the reduced loads with RedDot. I'm tempted to load some at 2500fps with RL19, around 37-38grns just to see if it is still there.

In my opinion a shiny ejector mark on the case head certainly does indicate a high pressure load.

While shooting Audette's ladders, I always load the last few rounds past max, start at the lowest chosen charge and progress upward, but always stop when I encounter bright ejector marks or a sticky bolt lift.

Every rifle is different. You may encounter overpressure before the book max for a number of different reasons; the rifle or reloading practices.

IMO, looking for pressure signs such as the ones discussed will tell you what is max for your rifle

The few times I have been in the arena of excessive chamber pressure in a rifle to the point that the extracted empties had the shiney spot on the case head the bolt was also sticky to open, and the primers were flattened to the extent that the edges of them almost looked as if they were part of the case head of the brass. One such time was pushing a Ruger M77 All-weather in 243Win to 4250-4300 ft/sec using 55 grain Nosler BT bullets. They were starting to really show some impressive speed and almost as impressive accuracy but were more than a little of the top, so we backed off into saner territory. I don't think (key word here is think) that a shiney spot on a casehead alone is sufficient evidence to assume the cause is over-pressure. You should try another brand of brass, such as Win. or Rem. with the same load to see if it displays the shiney spot. I say Win or Rem because these two brands have more capacity than the Frontier brass which should reduce chamber pressure.

I don't think a shiny ejector mark by itself definitely indicates a high pressure load. One of my guns did the same thing even with loads that are well under the book maximum. I eventually rebarreled the rifle (for a different reason) and the same shiny mark would appear on the brass even with the new barrel. I eventually had the bolt face looked at by a gunsmith and he said that was causing the mark and it would happen even under low pressure rounds. I had the bolt face ground and now I don't see the mark anymore.

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
.257 Roberts, 117gn spbt Hornady, Ruger m77. Rookie reloader.

I have been loading from the Hornady book, 44gn-47grn of RL19, at 2.78" oal, and am getting a bright spot on the case head, ejector mark. These loads are all below book max in the Hornady book, and should give velocity in the 2750-2900fps range. I have shot Hornady factory loads 117grn at 2780fps with no problems, and great accuracy. Why am I getting these bright spots on the brass? (This is once fired Frontier factory loaded brass, neck sized.)

Hey Dave, First off, it is good that you noticed the "bright spots". It is only a guess, and the other folks above who disagree may be correct, but I would think that it is a High Pressure Indicator - especially if it aligns with and resembles the Ejector Hole in your Bolt Face.

quote:

The other manufacturer's info list 43.6-44grn of RL19 as max with the 117grn bullet weights, and max velocity in the mid 2700's fps.

I've found the "RL-Powders" to be erratic as far as Pressure is concerned as you approach what is normally considered a SAFE MAX. But it could only be seen with a 0.0001" capable Micrometer.

quote:

Accuracy is great with my reloads, but I don't want to mangle the rifle, the brass, or me!

I wouldn't want to be mangled either. But it really should not happen at the level you are loading.

quote:

Is it common or even probable that I have high pressure more than 3grns under book max? Am I really going to have to settle for under 2700fps with this bullet at a safe max for my rifle?

Yes, it is very possible. No, you may not have to settle for under 2700fps. In one Manual, I see 5 Hodgdon Powders, 4 IMR Powders, and 1 WW Powder that are above 2700fps(26" barrel), with a 117gr bullet

quote:

I have no chrono to check real life speeds.

That is good. They are as worthless as reloading info from teenScumee. And would only serve to confuse you even more.

quote:

Would a change in powder help lower pressure at the 2800+fps that I would like to achieve.

Quite possible.

quote:

Should I just drop to a 100grn bullet and work a new load from there?

If you have only tried the RL-19, then you might find a different Powder better suited to what you want. Nothing wrong with going to a 100gr bullet either and trying that. They Kill just fine.

quote:

What is also perplexing is that I have been loading reduced loads with RedDot 90grn Sierra hpbt, and from 8-11grns, still have that bright ejector mark on my brand new Win brass (neck sized).

A proper Down-Load should have "less Pressure" than normal Loads. Unless you are using CHE & PRE, you really don't know if the Pressure has been reduced. It does not take much Powder to create a lot of Pressure. And unless you got the Red Dot Load from a Manual where it has been Factory Tested, you are really in over your head as a beginning reloader. That is not intended as "mean spirited", just letting you know the odds of Ka-Booming yourself with non-factory tested loads are not worth chancing.

quote:

Could it be a rifle/bolt problem? Wouldn't it have also shown on the factory loads though?

Yes, it could be a Burr around the Ejector opening. The Factory ammo is held below 45k-47k CUPs and the Loads you mentioned should appear to be at that level.

quote:

Any info at all would be greatly appreciated before I blow myself up. Thanks.

You did the right thing by asking.

1. Do the Primers still Seat Snug in the Cases with the "bright spots"?
2. Where did you get the Red Dot Load range?

I have not had sticky bolt lifts with any of these rounds.

I have not tried to size and prime my reloaded brass yet, but I can check a few. The mark on the case head is more noticable with the 47grn load than with the 44grn load.

The RedDot loads are from Lyman, every reduced load recipe for RedDot is in the 7.5-12grn range, so I went low/middle of the road, 9 grn, with a jacketed bullet as a plinking round.


Thanks for the tips fella's, I'll take all the advice I can get.

I'm wondering if I should just go buy some IMR 4350, and start again.



I have also been loading a 300wm with RL19, but not top end, sticking with middle range loads, and have been very happy with them, no issues at all.

How can you determine that your load is going 2800fps or any speed for that matter w/o a Chrony?? Book loads and velocities rarely match the results that you get from your personal rifle. And until you know what YOUR perfomance levels are, you are shooting in the dark (pun intended).
Some of the pressure signs are more reliable than others but rarely is a single sign, by itself, indicative of over pressure. If this ejector mark is not accompanied by a severely flattened primer, and/or enlarged primer pockets,and/or sticky bolt lift, it is, IMO, a nothing.
BUT, until you have a means to find out what your rifle's performance levels are, you have no way of knowing which way to go.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
.257 Roberts, 117gn spbt Hornady, Ruger m77. Rookie reloader.

I have been loading from the Hornady book, 44gn-47grn of RL19, at 2.78" oal, and am getting a bright spot on the case head, ejector mark. These loads are all below book max in the Hornady book, and should give velocity in the 2750-2900fps range. I have shot Hornady factory loads 117grn at 2780fps with no problems, and great accuracy. Why am I getting these bright spots on the brass? (This is once fired Frontier factory loaded brass, neck sized.)

quote:

I have no chrono to check real life speeds.

That is good. They are as worthless as reloading info from teenScumee. And would only serve to confuse you even more.

If you don't have a chronograph to help you, the method that Hotsh$t recommends is to "Guestimate" the velocity!!!!!!. He favors his little known and dubious "CHE&PRE" method that is repeated here to a sickening degree and not supported by any of the many others who post here. Can Hotsh$t be right and the rest of the universe wrong??? In his mind.....Yes.

A Chronograph can be a helpful tool for you to use.

It would be reasuring to look at real fps numbers, just to see where the load(s) fall.

I realise that I can't be 100% spot on with the book numbers, but it does give someone something to go by. If I'm within 100fps of my target 2800fps, I'm guessing 96% right. Within 150fps, I'm 94%, and I know I don't have much more to go on but that.

Until I make friends with someone who owns a chrono, I'll have do my best with what I have.

Thanks all.

I would say maybe. It depends on the brass, I get ext marks in my 338-06 using crap Federal brass, but not Norma or Win. Something to keep an eye on. A chronograph helps to see where you are, have been & are going. it by itself does not tell you pressure, but if you are getting a lot higher vel than the book & some pressure signs, your rifle is telling yo uto back off.

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
It would be reasuring to look at real fps numbers, just to see where the load(s) fall. ...

Hey Dave, You can get a good "Guess" on the Velocity by Zeroing the Group at one yardage and seeing how much the drop is at another yardage. All you need is the Ballistic Coefficient from Hornady for your specific Bullet, a Range with 200yds-300yds available, and the External Ballistic Tables in the back of one of the Manuals.

First, Zero your Load for 100yds. Then shoot a 5-shot group at 200yds or 300yds. Measure from the Center of each Hole at 200yds(or 300yds) up to the Horizontal CenterLine for the Target and Average the distance. Then compare the Actual Drop Rate with what is shown in the External Ballistic Tables and you will have more useful knowledge about your actual Load than by using a chronograph.

Best of luck to you.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
It would be reasuring to look at real fps numbers, just to see where the load(s) fall. ...

Hey Dave, You can get a good "Guess" on the Velocity by Zeroing the Group at one yardage and seeing how much the drop is at another yardage. All you need is the Ballistic Coefficient from Hornady for your specific Bullet, a Range with 200yds-300yds available, and the External Ballistic Tables in the back of one of the Manuals.

First, Zero your Load for 100yds. Then shoot a 5-shot group at 200yds or 300yds. Measure from the Center of each Hole at 200yds(or 300yds) up to the Horizontal CenterLine for the Target and Average the distance. Then compare the Actual Drop Rate with what is shown in the External Ballistic Tables and you will have more useful knowledge about your actual Load than by using a chronograph.

Best of luck to you.

Another word for this method is called "Guestimate".

A chronograph will measure the speed of each shot and give you the variance from shot to shot for that loading and compute the standard deviation of those shots as well as the average velocity for that group of shots. This gives you some input into the quality of your handloads with this standard deviation. With the more advanced models other statistical info is available. Check on the features of the brand you are going to buy. Using the average speed from the readings you can more accurately compute your drop chart from the various ballistic programs available on the internet.

Hotsh$t is stuck in the 50's with a slide rule and hasn't learned yet what electronic devices can do. You'll have to pardon him in this area, otherwise he is a ................well just pardon him.

Have fun.

Since Teancum and HC are fucking up another thread , I'll make this last post and be gone: Folks have been reloading for a long time without chronographs. And doing a pretty good job of it, I'll admit. Hell, I reloaded for a long time w/o a Chrony and did a pretty good job of it. However, I think that a chronograph, after a good balance beam scale, is one of the best "nice to have" items you can have on your reloading bench (figuratively speaking ).
Much preferred over some of the "thingies" that folks lay out some lavish bucks for.
A re-furbed Chrony is so reasonable that it's hard to imagine anyone not being able to afford one.
Th-Th-Thats all folks.

Thanks for the info, folks.

I sized and primed a piece of brass from the 47grn RL19 load, primer pocket was fine, but I'd feel more comfortable loading it to a level where my fired brass doesn't look any different than the fired factory loaded brass.

If I can't get the hornady 117grn to 2750-2800+fps, then I will get some different components and start again. Too bad really, as that 47grn/RL19 load was giving .5-.6" at 100yrds.

This weekend I will load some down to 41grns RL19 just to see if the mark is still there. If there is still a mark with that load, there is no need to continue with it imo.

I will also load up some 100grn TTSX midrange loads and compare brass. Hopefully I can find a suitable load that will not mark the brass.

This CHE & PRE seems like an answer to your prayers. Wasn't it invented long ago to answer a pressure question just like dave-t's? Why does no one utilize its benefits? (at least I can't recall anyone touting its usefulness on AR except HC) It's said to be cheap, easy to use, never fail and foolproof. What's not to like?

Some rifle 'ejector marks' are due to burrs or raised edges on the ejector hole/slot and will show up on most anything fired in it.

If that's the cause, it's easy to correct at home or by a gunsmith, should take about ten minutes.

I shot a load of 43grn of RL19 with the 117grn hornady last night, and there were no marks on the brass, everything looked as it should be. But that is more than 4 grns under book max, low 2600's fps.

I'm going to get some IMR-4350 and start again. I don't have enough experience with reloading to know exactly what is going on here, but something is telling me the rifle doesn't jive with RL19, and I don't see the need to fight it.

Not sure why anyone would recommend against the use of a chronograph. Personally, I want to know the velocity a certain load will produce, it's added information. What possible harm can there be in recording velocities?

For example, if 3 different powders are producing similar accuracy with a given bullet, I tend to choose the powder which produces the most velocity.

Also, I just recently recorded the velocities of my new 260 Rem with the 130 Berger VLD and three different powders. Each powder produced similar velocities of just greater than 2900 fps. However, with H4350, 45 grains produced 100 fps greater velocity than did 44.5. Also, the ES of the 45 grain load was only 12 fps which is an indicator of potential accuracy particularly at longer ranges. I believe this is valuable to know.

Not certain what a new CHRONY chronograph sells for in your area but I paid around $100.00 for mine years ago when that brand first came out.

Bobby B.

On the Alliant website reloading data, RL-22 is recommended for the 120 grain bullet. It may be that the RL-19 is too fast, causing higher pressure before the velocity you want is reached....

I believe you may be right rcamuglia. I can't remember now if RL22 is even listed in the Hornady book for that bullet, but thanks all.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobby B.:
Not sure why anyone would recommend against the use of a chronograph. Personally, I want to know the velocity a certain load will produce, it's added information. What possible harm can there be in recording velocities?

For example, if 3 different powders are producing similar accuracy with a given bullet, I tend to choose the powder which produces the most velocity.

Also, I just recently recorded the velocities of my new 260 Rem with the 130 Berger VLD and three different powders. Each powder produced similar velocities of just greater than 2900 fps. However, with H4350, 45 grains produced 100 fps greater velocity than did 44.5. Also, the ES of the 45 grain load was only 12 fps which is an indicator of potential accuracy particularly at longer ranges. I believe this is valuable to know.

Not certain what a new CHRONY chronograph sells for in your area but I paid around $100.00 for mine years ago when that brand first came out.

Bobby B.

I agree. Only those ill informed and married to their slide rules will normally feel this way about riding the wave of technology. It rattles some well guarded personal theories and they develop a castle/siege mentality. This phenomenon occurs most frequently in the Carolinas.

I have not seen the make of brass that you use. Norma and Nosler are thicker walled with less volume and can get higher pressures than a Rem on Win with the same load.

Ifyou are getting these marks with low pressure loads then look towards your brass. As stated above, Federal brass is crap, try a different brand. I find Federal brass way to soft and marks like these are common.

The down loaded rounds are with brand new neck sized Win brass from Midway.

The full house loads were with once fired Frontier/Hornady brass, recovered from Hornady factory loads.

quote:

Posted by Bobby B:
Not sure why anyone would recommend against the use of a chronograph.

Hey Bobby, The reason is fairly simple - it always creates confusion for the Beginning Reloader when the Velocity from the Chronograph does not give the same reading as what he is expecting. The Beginners have enough to concern thamselves with, without more to confuse them and create a potential SAFETY issue.

For example, if a Beginner or someone as STUPID as the skirt-wearing Queer teenScumee, got a Velocity 250fps "below" what they expect it to be, many(like teenScumee) would just keep dumping in Powder until they got the Velocity they were expecting. That might not result in a Ka-Boom, but it can result in 1-shot Case Life.

Velocity tells nothing about the Pressure, as much as some folks want it to. And that creates unnecessary confusion for the Beginners and teenScumee type idiots.
-----

quote:

posted by onefunee fool:
This CHE & PRE seems like an answer to your prayers. Wasn't it invented long ago to answer a pressure question just like dave-t's? Why does no one utilize its benefits? (at least I can't recall anyone touting its usefulness on AR except HC)

Actually, all those questions are answered in "The GLOATING Thread". That is where you can find a total fool and his non-calibrated, guessed at dimension, wire wrapped, M43 info got totally destroyed by the good-old never-fail CHE portion of CHE & PRE. The FOOL even pulled his info off the thread because it was so embarrassing about his lack of sense.

Fortunately though, someone had recorded the "worthless info" and placed it back into the thread, along with the excellent CHE Data. Nothing like a good laugh at a total FOOL's expense.
-----

Hey Dave, If you decide that you want to try the only really accurate Pressure Detection Method, just PM me.

Best of luck with your Loads.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Posted by Bobby B:
Not sure why anyone would recommend against the use of a chronograph.

Hey Bobby, The reason is fairly simple - it always creates confusion for the Beginning Reloader when the Velocity from the Chronograph does not give the same reading as what he is expecting. The Beginners have enough to concern thamselves with, without more to confuse them and create a potential SAFETY issue.

For example, if a Beginner or someone as STUPID as the skirt-wearing Queer teenScumee, got a Velocity 250fps "below" what they expect it to be, many(like teenScumee) would just keep dumping in Powder until they got the Velocity they were expecting. That might not result in a Ka-Boom, but it can result in 1-shot Case Life.

Velocity tells nothing about the Pressure, as much as some folks want it to. And that creates unnecessary confusion for the Beginners and teenScumee type idiots.
-----

quote:

posted by onefunee fool:
This CHE & PRE seems like an answer to your prayers. Wasn't it invented long ago to answer a pressure question just like dave-t's? Why does no one utilize its benefits? (at least I can't recall anyone touting its usefulness on AR except HC)

Actually, all those questions are answered in "The GLOATING Thread". That is where you can find a total fool and his non-calibrated, guessed at dimension, wire wrapped, M43 info got totally destroyed by the good-old never-fail CHE portion of CHE & PRE. The FOOL even pulled his info off the thread because it was so embarrassing about his lack of sense.

Fortunately though, someone had recorded the "worthless info" and placed it back into the thread, along with the excellent CHE Data. Nothing like a good laugh at a total FOOL's expense.
-----

Hey Dave, If you decide that you want to try the only really accurate Pressure Detection Method, just PM me.

Best of luck with your Loads.

Dave

Are you really going to be confused when the numbers don't match your expectations?? Or are you going to inquire as to the reasons why, like you are doing here??? I give you more credit than Hotsh$t in knowing what course you will take. Remember this is the AH with all the criticism and none of the knowledge in the area that he is most vocal about. Pitiful and Pathetic.

An interesting read is the one on his Elk Hunting Experience where he is asked to state his experience to support his criticisms and to date has cowered away knowing that he has no experience. He is just a sad ole man with his slide rule clenched firmly in one hand and saying the whole world is wrong and I'm the only one who is right. Actually if it wasn't so pathetic it could be fun to watch!!!

Best advice on Hotsh$t's rantings is to take them with a shovel full of salt..... or better yet to avoid them completely!!!!



A chronograph will give you lots of valuable information about your loads. It's not the end all to all info that you might need but is helpful. There is a wealth of information out there in reloading manuals, good to get a couple of 'em, and on the internet. Only a fool would turn down additional information on a project that they were working on.....wait a second only Hotsh$t would do so.



The other thing to be aware of is the individual nature of each rifle with respect to chamber size, actual bore diameter, and barrel condition and length. What works in one shooter may not be the best in another. Sounds like you are on your way and should have a lot of fun.

It would be nice to see what velocity I am getting with loads that don't mark up my brass. Heck I may be getting close to 2800fps with a 43grn charge of RL19, but that is doubtfull, in my rank amateur opinion.

I was just looking for advice on if I was over pressure with loads 3grn under book max, since I have very littel experience at reloading. I think I have my issue sorted out, and will shoot some groups with 4350 this weekend.

Thanks for everyone's advice and opinions, but I'm not wanting to get into the middle of a long standing pissing match.


Have a great Independence day everyone.

If you don't want to get in the middle of a long pissing contest, AR is not the place to be.

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
Thanks for everyone's advice and opinions, but I'm not wanting to get into the middle of a long standing pissing match. ...

As long as you do like EVERYONE ELSE on the Board and just skip-over the skirt wearing Queer teenScumee's posts, you will do fine.

Something I haven`t noticed brougth up yet is that
1- Hornady bullets are kmown for a smaller bearing surface then most other brands and often take more powder to get equal pressure and velocity.
2 - Hornady data for the 257 RBTS is +P rated.

Finding R19/117gr data for the 257 is not as simple as "look in any manual", there is little in any of mine.
What I did find though is Lyman claims 45gr of R19 as max with 100gr bullets.
Their 117gr data has R22 at 44gr as max a slower powder, and nothing for R19.
Speer stopped at 45gr of R19 with their 115gr bullet and 43grs with 120gr bullets. This is also +P data according to them as is the Hornady.
I expect the load could very well be on the edge with the component variations and rifle used. It shouldn`t be enough to cause problems but the beginnings of pressure signs could well be real.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
Thanks for everyone's advice and opinions, but I'm not wanting to get into the middle of a long standing pissing match. ...

As long as you do like EVERYONE ELSE on the Board and just skip-over the skirt wearing Queer teenScumee's posts, you will do fine.

OR:

You could follow in the footsteps of 357 posts and 9,289 views of why Hotsh$t is the coward that he is when asked to support his criticisms and then you find out also why 98% of the posters here know that Hotsh$t is full of sh$t.

The suppository of all elk hunting knowledge and elk caliber selection will cower and run to the air rifle threads when challenged on his experience. I think he feels more at home in the air gun area due to his fear of recoil. But alas, ole Glenn is getting up there and allowances must be made for those with onset Alzheimer. His TV is broke and he gets cranky when the cartoons are not available. Please be a little considerate of Old Glenn..... I am.



Respectfully,

I for one am tired of this shit!!

X2

I'm with Ted and Wasbeeman

I'm with ted, wasbeeman, and wistrapper...

Hornady does list RL 19 in their book. I did notice 47.2 grns listed as max is way over every other manufactureres data for that weight of bullet, and is even over some other manufactureres max for the 100grn bullet weights. Barnes 100grn TTSX max is 46grns of RL19, for example. Every other manufactureres info that I could find for 117grn wt bullets was between 43-44grns of RL19, and 43grns is where the brass stopped being marked in my rifle.

I did pick up some IMR-4350, and ran test loads from 38grns-42.6grns, with no pressure signs or marked brass, primers were still very rounded and hardly even compressed. This was with the same Hornady 117grn, and new Winchester brass neck sized. I will concentrate on finding an accurate load between 41-42.5 grns of IMR-4350 that should get me 2800-2900fps range, which is exactly what I was looking for.

I ran the scale with the Sierra 90grn hpbt and H-380 as well, 41-45.5grns testing for pressure signs, and got none.


Bottom line, I don't know if it was the brass or the powder at fault, or if there even was a fault at all. I do know that I am more comfortable with the IMR-4350 right now showing no marks on the brass at a book max charge, than I was using the RL19. That is good enough for me right now.

quote:

Originally posted by dave-t:
Hornady does list RL 19 in their book. I did notice 47.2 grns listed as max is way over every other manufactureres data for that weight of bullet, and is even over some other manufactureres max for the 100grn bullet weights. Barnes 100grn TTSX max is 46grns of RL19, for example. Every other manufactureres info that I could find for 117grn wt bullets was between 43-44grns of RL19, and 43grns is where the brass stopped being marked in my rifle.

I did pick up some IMR-4350, and ran test loads from 38grns-42.6grns, with no pressure signs or marked brass, primers were still very rounded and hardly even compressed. This was with the same Hornady 117grn, and new Winchester brass neck sized. I will concentrate on finding an accurate load between 41-42.5 grns of IMR-4350 that should get me 2800-2900fps range, which is exactly what I was looking for.

I ran the scale with the Sierra 90grn hpbt and H-380 as well, 41-45.5grns testing for pressure signs, and got none.


Bottom line, I don't know if it was the brass or the powder at fault, or if there even was a fault at all. I do know that I am more comfortable with the IMR-4350 right now showing no marks on the brass at a book max charge, than I was using the RL19. That is good enough for me right now.

It looks like your bright spot was pressure induced if it has stopped with these other loads.
One item not mentioned so far is the chamber of your rifle. If it is very tightly cut, then it will restain the brass and cause lighter loads to reach higher pressures. The opposite can occur, too, where big, sloppy chambers allow the brass to expand and the resulting lower pressure results in slower velocities. Thus, in tight chambered rifles you will reach a max pressure earlier than in roomy-chambered rifles.

Personally, I wonder why you haven't gotten a chronograph yet. Midway has Chronys in stock from $80-120. The inexpensive one will work fine as a starter as long as you bring pen and notebook to the range.

Chronographs give you about a 1% accuracy/error spread (about 30fps) in normal conditions. (Heavy overcast, mist, or sundown can cause some misreadings.)
Set up the chronograph about 15 feet from the bench and record every shot.
Do a ladder check if you want (40gr, 41 gr, 42,
43, 44,, etc., or in half-grain increments). You will have a much better idea about what is going on.
Along with that, you should get a good micrometer, learn how to read it, and start measuring your case head expansions. Record those as well. Between the two, the velocity and the case head, you should be able to learn quite abit about your particular rifle.