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| <.> |
In .223 Ackley Improved. Should I fire form the brass and THEN turn necks? Or turn the necks first and then fire form the brass? | ||
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| one of us |
I ONLY TURN THE NECKS ONCE IN A WHILE,BE SURE TO CHECH THE WALL THICKNESS IF YOUR GOING TO TURN THE NECKS EVERY TIME YOU RELOAD THEM. YOUR BRASS IS NOT GOING TO LAST LONG IF TOU DO | |||
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| one of us |
quote:...It depends on your chamber....if you know the neck size of your chamber and then check your loaded rounds and if the neck is small enough for the chamber then fireform and then neck turn.......as the AI chamber is supposed to be the same to the shoulder/body but most brass varies enough that I would fireform and then turn the new neck if necessary.....also you might consider that some neckturner cutters won't get the neck down to the shoulder with the standard cutter as the cutter hits the shoulder before the neck/shoulder joint and you need a special available sharper angle cutter for your neck turner to get all the way to the shoulder and into it a tiny bit....this is from a friend that I helped do his and considering a rechamber in my future to the 223AI.......it worked for us in his gun and his is tighter necked than a standard 223 but not "tight necked custom style" good luck and good shooting!!! | |||
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| <.> |
The neck turning tool is supposed to make the neck wall more uniform in thickness and more centered in the bore. Uniform thickness should improve neck tension, making it more concentric and improving bullet release. So . . . I have a tool that will turn the neck for both .223 Rem. and for Ackley Improved. I'm wondering if the shoulder on the case gets moved back on the Ackley and if I trim to the shoulder on the case before it's fire formed if I will later need to trim back more neck to extend the trim surface to the shoulder of the Ackley case. That's the question. | ||
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| one of us |
quote:Sorry I didn't make myself clear..YES fireform first...that way if the shoulder/neck move due to chamber differences then you won't have a donut start in the joint or a thin spot.....according to the brand of turner some require the 40degree cutter for turnning the Ack. Imp. necks to the shoulder....again good luck and good shooting!! | |||
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| <.> |
OK, "doughnuts and thin spots" . . . That makes sense. I have the tool modified to manage the shoulder on the Ackley. Gawd! This caliber gets to be a lot of work! 300-plus pieces of LC brass, mixed years, but all the same arsenal. Not much point in loading non-turned, non-formed brass with expensive bullets. I have some cheapo Winchester 55 gr. FMJ bulk stuff . . . but it's STILL $5/100 and a lot of loading/shooting. AFTER the fire forming, I'll trim to length and turn the necks . . . .357 magnum reloads for revolver just keeps looking better and better . . . ![[Big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif){kind=icon} | ||
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| <BigBob> |
GENGHIS, This is the way I do it. I don't know if it's the best way, it's just my way. I sort brass by weight. Out of the rejects I'll fire form half a dozen. I'll use these cases to adjust my full length sizing die to the headspace of my rifle. Once the die is adjusteed I size all the unfired cases so they may better fit my chamber. Then I'll clean the inside of the necks of the formed cases with a bore brush to remove the carbon and use the cases to adjust my neck turning tool. This way I willnot trim down the case so far I get into the shoulder. Turning the necks of virgin cases reduces the wear and tear on on the mandrel of the turning tool. It also helps me to get it right the first time. I hope that this is of some help. Good luck. ![[Smile]](images/icons/smile.gif){kind=icon} [ 06-16-2002, 08:04: Message edited by: BigBob ] | ||
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