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Thanks to all of the help I recieved here I am on the right track in learning how to reload, but I am confused with a few things that I am hoping you can clear up for me. Here it goes, keeping in mind that I will only load for 2 of my rifles and use the brass fired from them. 1)Is it neccessary to full-size my brass or do I neck-size only and trim the length when it stretches? 2) Which case length should be my base...once fired, twice fired, etc?? 3) How do I determine the best seating depth and once it is determined do I keep it consistant by checking overall length with a caliper or is there another method? 4) How do I determine how far from the rifling the bullet should seat...I think the answer is by shooting, but this would probably take allot of rounds. 5) For consistancy purposes do you clean your bore when testing each different load? 6) Finally, I would imagine that we all want to find the perfect load with the best accuracy and highest velocity possible, so how do you arrive at this magical combination?? Load the maximum load from guide and tweak the best accuracy by playing with the seating depth, or adding/subtracting a grain of powder? I just read my post over and realized that I am asking for ALLOT of information...I really would appreciate your thoughts on this and will thank you all in advance! Frank | ||
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There are quite a few variables in there. What rilfes? If you load .223 for a bolt and an AR you yave two different sets of parameters to look at. If you are loading just the brass from a bolt action rifle to back into that rifle you can neck size it butmay have to full length size it ever so often. For a semi auto you will need to full size it every firing. As far as triming oges I trim each firing, excessive? It works for me. As far as seating goes that depends on the bullet and the rifle. Some bullets, like Sierra, are more jump tolerant than others. Start with mag length. Work up your optimum powder charge than tune the length. A bad day at the range is better than a good day at work. | |||
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Never start at recomended max load! Great answer from: sr4759 | |||
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Walk before I try to run?? Good advice...overthinking it I guess. | |||
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You can eat an elephant, just take small bites. You will find that you inadvertently teach yourself more than you expected to learn. Just assembling your first 50 rounds is a big step. | |||
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SR4759 gives excellent advice. To explore all the variables you mention fully (and you will, in time) is going to take a lot of time, and a lot of toys, some of which are not cheap! My suggestion is to start with the (book) basics and develop a safe load in each rifle that shoots 'well enough'. While you're using that load, start experimenting, ONE VARIABLE AT A TIME. That way, you'll see the difference (if any) caused by each adjustment. Keep notes (religiously) on all your load development. Hang on to old targets (I scan them and insert them into my Excel Record Sheets - it saves on filing space). Once again, this will provide you with a handy archive of what worked and what didn't - it'll provide an invaluable overview a year or 2 from now. If you're itching to invest in toys, may I suggest a few which would probably pay the most dividends in the short term - a decent chronograph, a good digital vernier and a bullet comparator with correct collars for each calibre you're loading. You might then start your experimentation with tiny adjustments in seating depth (starting with the maximum length which will fit your magazine without binding and will not touch the lands of your rifling) then shorten OAL in 0.5mm (0.002") steps. Watch your groups as you go  Good luck - let us know how you go. | |||
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Concentrate on only one rifle first. Read as much data available for the load you want to work with choosing the bullet and weight you desire to use, then (and) the powder. IE: target, hunting rounds - everyone want's an accurate load. Measure the free bore in that rifle with the bullet you are to use so you are not seated ON the lands when done with the full cartridge. Make a dummy round with No powder or Primer and check the fit. Purchase a case gauge for that cartridge I suggest a L.E. They will help you find if you crush the shoulder or are just not in spec size, And a Lee case trimmer they are cheap and exact to most suggested AOL's. “eventually you will prabably just neck size but start with full like Member SR4759 said. Need a caliper, good scale, set of scale weights. Most important: don't let anybody in the city area know you are reloading / I think you are not supposed to have more than 1 lb of powder in the boroughs if that. You don't want the fire dept or gestapo Bloomburg making an example of you. Welcome to reloading it's fun and rewarding. | |||
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The only thing that counts starting out is safety. | |||
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