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Please comment on my equipment selection - new to reloading
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Hello everyone,
I have been trying to do as much research as possible. I bought and read numerous reloading books including "Handloading for Competition" and "ABCs of Reloading."

My initial plans are to reload for my 22-250 for varmint, 308 for deer hunting, 223 for my AR-15, and 45acp and 10mm for my 1911s. I don't show a lot, probably around 100 to 200 rounds per month. I also would like to do some benchrest competition in the near future.

I am at the final point where I am ready to purchase all my equipment. Also, I am a FFL dealer and I can get great prices on my initial order from Redding so I am trying to purchase as much Redding equipment as I can.

Press:
-Redding T-7 Turret (Was also considering the Harrell Turret Press)
-Redding shell holders

Dies
- For my rifles I was going to order the Redding full length dies and the Competition Seater dies.
- For my pistols, I am going to order the Pro Series Die Sets (competition seater, titanium carbide sizer and crimp die) with and appropriate Expander Dies.
-Redding Stuck case removal kit.
-Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller

Primer
-Sinclair Hand Primer with shell holders

Powder Scales
-RCBS Chargemaster Combo
-Redding powder scale and powder trickler

Lube
-Imperial Sizing Wax for rifle cartridges

Separate Decapping Station
-Redding Decapping Die Set
-Lee Compact Reloader to decap

Case Prep
-Dillion tumbler with media separator
-Sinclair treated corn media
-Wilson Sinclair Case Trimmer
-Sinclair Power Center (for deburring, primer pocket uniforming, case neck cleaning, flash hold deburring and eventually neck turning)

Measuring Tools
-Sinclair Digital Concentricity Gauge
-Mitutoyo 6'' Caliper
-Hornady LNL OAL Gauge
-Hornady LNL Headspace Gauge Tool kit

Other
-Frankford Arsenal reloading trays

Anything else that I am missing or any equipment that you would not get based on my reloading needs? Any help would be appreciated.

I was considering the Giraud trimmer but I don't know if my volume would warrant this setup. I am a very meticulous person so I don't think I will mind measuring each powder charge or trimming by hand.
 
Posts: 9 | Registered: 25 December 2003Reply With Quote
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VLD inside chamfer.

I'm not telling you not to, but is there really a need for a micrometer-head seater for pistol ammo?

Not clear on whether you're planning on using bushing dies for rifle. Forster's standard FL die is also very good, especially the expander ball arrangement. If you are loading magazine-length ammo, the Forster non-micro seater is an economic alternative.

You have done your work well and made a first class selection. The Giraud trimmer demands a large volume in a single caliber. For small quantities, the Wilson is the right choice. You won't be trimming very often, especially if you're shooting factory chambers.

Good job!
 
Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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For the average new reloader, I'd be inclined to get the basics out of your list and reload for the easyest first, like the .308 for hunting. Otherwise you will have to be fastidious with keeping different dies seperate, powders,primers, ect.
The T-7 won't handle all your dies at once, so I'd consider a L-N-L style of press.
 
Posts: 2355 | Location: Australia | Registered: 14 November 2004Reply With Quote
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You will need a trimmer. I use the Lyman with the adaptor for a cordless drill. You may want to get the Redding deluxe dies for rifle so you can necksize.
 
Posts: 66 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: 08 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Looks like you've done your homework. Can't have too many books - look at the Lyman 48 and Speer - both have excellent sections on handloading. I can't really fault any of your choices, but I personally would have chosen a different priming tool, e.g. the Lee Autoprime with a set of shell holders, or the RCBS Universal hand primer. As an FFL holder you obviously will get good prices on everything you buy, but if you watch the sales, you may save even more. Keep asking questions - the experts here will keep you straight and safe.
 
Posts: 100 | Location: Colorado Springs, CO, USA | Registered: 10 January 2008Reply With Quote
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You may want to throw in a can of Hornady's One Shot spray lube. Imperial really isn't necessary for the rifle cartridges you're reloading and it's less messy and easier to clean up.
 
Posts: 207 | Location: Central Ohio | Registered: 11 April 2007Reply With Quote
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I just deleted a few things or made comments.
You had no bad choices but reloading is pretty simple and an a good scrounger can get started with $100.
The books and the learning process are more important than the equipment in the beginning.

quote:
Press:
-Redding T-7 Turret Many different presses will work ok
-Redding shell holders (The competition sets are nice)

Dies
- For my rifles I was going to order the Redding full length dies and the Competition Seater dies. Ok
- For my pistols, I am going to order the Pro Series Die Sets (competition seater, titanium carbide sizer and crimp die) with and appropriate Expander Dies. Ok

Primer
-Sinclair Hand Primer with shell holders Never prime with a press unless it is a necessity

Powder Scales
-RCBS Chargemaster Combo this can wait
electronic scales in the hands of a beginner make me nervous any sort of malfunction or operator error might result in serious over-charges. If you get the electronic scale get a set of standards (check weights) and use the every time.

-Redding powder scale and powder trickler I prefer the RCBS 510 or 1010 or equivalent Ohaus
The old tripple poise Bair, Texan, Hornady or Pacific scales work well.
So does the old AMT or Lyman Autoscale

Lube
-Imperial Sizing Wax for rifle cartridges pretty good stuff

Separate Decapping Station
-Lee punch and base with a plastic hammer work ok too

Case Prep
-Wilson Case Trimmer the standard version works fine.

Measuring Tools
Need a good micrometer for measuring to .001 or less
-6'' Caliper a $20 Midway version will work for reloading if you buy Mitutoyo get the 8" version so you will have something to hold on to.
When measuring over 3.5" you don't have much caliper to hold on to with a 6 incher.

-Hornady LNL OAL Gauge this can wait
-Hornady LNL Headspace Gauge Tool this can wait
 
Posts: 9207 | Registered: 22 November 2002Reply With Quote
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jsottile,

This is off-topic, for which I apologize, but I would like to ask a favor of you.

In the ABCs of Reloading, the early chapter on presses describes the linkage system that is currently prevalent. A person's name is associated with the design, and I am asking you to tell me what the name is.

I am very grateful for your help.
 
Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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I would agree with the comment about starting slow, getting a feel for the process and gradually add more items (dies, etc.) for more calibers. I like the idea of beginning with the .308. It'll be a lot less confusing. Also, as to your calipers. I'd agree about getting the 8" ones but I'd also recommend that you get the digital ones. With them, there is no interpolation and they are much faster to use. Just my comments. Bear in Fairbanks


Unless you're the lead dog, the scenery never changes.

I never thought that I'd live to see a President worse than Jimmy Carter. Well, I have.

Gun control means using two hands.

 
Posts: 1544 | Location: Fairbanks, Ak., USA | Registered: 16 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I prefer the Redding Ultra-mag with LNL conversion or the Forster co-ax for a press. With the co-ax, you need not worry about depriming on the press, there is no primer arm slot in the ram to let spent primers/debris escape to foul the works, and dies just snap in and out. And you don't need shell holders with the co-ax. You will need Forster or Hornady lock rings for redding dies in the co-ax. Or just get Forster dies (with or without micrometer on the seater, they have the same guts) for the rifle and use them as is. They don't make pistol dies though.

I'd go with a cheaper tumbler. Dillons are made for volumes of brass you'd need a progressive press to reload. And their lifetime warranty no longer applies to electrical products.

If you like the sinclair base for the Wilson trimmer, check out the Kinneman base. It uses a toggle clamp instead of the screw-down clamp on the sinclair. Most users are plenty happy just mounting the wilson trimmer in a vise though. BTW, a small to medium bench vise is a great addition to a reloading bench. The Sinclair micrometer stem is better than Kinneman's (more travel); both are available separately without the base. Don't forget case holders for this trimmer.

Don't forget collets for the hornady cam-lock puller. BTW, it will work on the co-ax press.

You won't need the chargemaster AND a separate scale and trickler. You will probably want to add a powder measure for the pistols; they are much faster than even the chargemaster, and plenty accurate for pistol loads. The scale from the chargemaster can be used to check the PM. Redding makes very good PMs, but if you have the chargemaster for rifle loads, quick change style PMs from RCBS or Hornady are more convenient for pistols.

Handling primers one at a time is very tedious. I strongly recommend a priming tool with a tray. I like the RCBS universal hand primer with the square tray. It does not need shell holders.

Andy
 
Posts: 315 | Location: Arlington TX | Registered: 21 October 2005Reply With Quote
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You may want to look into getting the Hornady Heads and shoulders headspace gage that attaches to the calipers. They use to be made by Stoney Point. These are very helpful when setting up FL dies for rifle brass so that you are not pushing the shoulder back too far and over working the brass. Just another 2cts from me.
 
Posts: 66 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: 08 February 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Winchester 69:
jsottile,

This is off-topic, for which I apologize, but I would like to ask a favor of you.

In the ABCs of Relaoding, the early chapter on presses describes the linkage system that is currently prevalent. A person's name is associated with the design, and I am asking you to tell me what the name is.

I am very grateful for your help.


I thought it was just called a compound leverage
system?
 
Posts: 2355 | Location: Australia | Registered: 14 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by JAL:
I thought it was just called a compound leverage
system?


Thank you for your help.
 
Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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Everyone,
Thank you very much for your help. I am now going to revisit some areas.

On the press, I agree that the LNL feature is nice. Has anyone used the Harrell Turret press because the extra turret heads are cheap and I am can get them in 4 hole design. My 45 and 10mm die sets have 4 dies each and my rifle require 2 dies each. So I was going to get 2 extra turrett heads and that way the dies would stay in them permentantly.

The only disadvantage is that it is limited to cartridge cases 2.5'' in length. Does anyone know what calibers this would limit me to?

I also agree about the priming tool and the single priming operation of the Sinclair tool would probably not be good for doing my pistols. I was going to get the new RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool. Is this one good because I know a lot of people really like the Lee unit.

Winchester 69: I will check in my book as soon as I get home as I am out of town on business. Also you suggested a VLD inside chamfer, would I use the VLD one for all bullet types (flat base including?) or would I want numerous chamfer tools (45 degree, etc)

Also, If I get the digital Sinclair concentricity gauge would I have need still for a good digital mic? I would rather spend the money on the more useful tool. I know eventually if I get into neck turner and I will need a tool to measure that.

Also, does anyone think the Sinclair Power Unit is a good investment? I am set up as a dealer with them and can get a good price on the unit.


Ireload2 and Bear in Fairbank: Thanks for the suggestion on changing the caliber to an 8''.

DrWatson69, thanks for your suggestion on the different base, I do like that design better.
 
Posts: 9 | Registered: 25 December 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jsottile001:
On the press, I agree that the LNL feature is nice. Has anyone used the Harrell Turret press because the extra turret heads are cheap and I am can get them in 4 hole design. My 45 and 10mm die sets have 4 dies each and my rifle require 2 dies each. So I was going to get 2 extra turrett heads and that way the dies would stay in them permentantly.

The only disadvantage is that it is limited to cartridge cases 2.5'' in length. Does anyone know what calibers this would limit me to?

The 2 1/2" case is 30-06 length. The Harrell is a small, aluminum press. It is designed to be portable, which, if you're loading both at the range and at home, has distinct advantages. Zediker also likes it because his case-forming procedure requires sequential sizing steps; he rotates the turret. Big, iron turret presses are not convenient for that procedure. If you will size in batch and then seat in batch, the Redding may be a wiser choice. If you're seating and crimping sequentially (pistol ammo), the Harrell will have its advantages. Choose your press to fit your procedure.
quote:
I also agree about the priming tool and the single priming operation of the Sinclair tool would probably not be good for doing my pistols. I was going to get the new RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool. Is this one good because I know a lot of people really like the Lee unit?

This is a matter of personal preference. Some find one more comfortable than the other, and there is no consensus. The Lee is most popular, followed by RCBS and then Hornady. The last one requires Hornady shell holders, but has adaptors for RCBS (which may also adapt Redding, but you will have to ask around on that one).
quote:
Winchester 69: I will check in my book as soon as I get home as I am out of town on business. Also, you suggested a VLD inside chamfer. Would I use the VLD one for all bullet types (flat base including?), or would I want numerous chamfer tools (45 degree, etc.)

Their is no imperative on the timeliness re: ABCs' info. I don't have one, and the local gun shop doesn't have it either. The local Pro Bass used to have it (where I scanned it many years ago), but they have discontinued handling all reloading equipment. Thanks.

The common chamfer tools provide 45 deg. for inside and outside; you will need one for outside to remove the burr. The VLD inside chamfer is preferred for all bullet types; it permits better initial alignment. Re-read Zediker, pp. 79-80.
quote:
Also, does anyone think the Sinclair Power Unit is a good investment? I am set up as a dealer with them and can get a good price on the unit.

Pretty expensive for a chuck on a bench motor. It runs around 200 RPM, IIRC. A cheapy drill press will accomplish the same thing (if it can run slowly), and could be more useful.
quote:
DrWatson69, Thanks for your suggestion on the different base, I do like that design better.

Trimmer base? Believe that was Jake.

If you're interested in press design, Jake has an extended dissertation on another forum. There will be another contribution early next week.

www.snipershide.net/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&N...04577&gonew=1#UNREAD
 
Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jsottile001:
Everyone,
Thank you very much for your help. I am now going to revisit some areas.

On the press, I agree that the LNL feature is nice. Has anyone used the Harrell Turret press because the extra turret heads are cheap and I am can get them in 4 hole design. My 45 and 10mm die sets have 4 dies each and my rifle require 2 dies each. So I was going to get 2 extra turrett heads and that way the dies would stay in them permentantly.

The only disadvantage is that it is limited to cartridge cases 2.5'' in length. Does anyone know what calibers this would limit me to?

That depends on whether they are referring to brass length or overall (loaded) cartridge length.

One thing to think about is how you would store loaded turret heads and keep them free from dust/rust/grime/etc. Be careful about sticking something metallic in the center hole besides the press's bolt. A wooden dowel would be less harmful to the machined center hole.

Unless I wanted to move a turret press from bench to the range and back, I would not like the clamp for fastening it to the bench. Bolting a press to a heavy board that is then securely clamped to a bench top is one thing, but that built in clamp just does not seem up to the task.

I'm not a huge fan of turret presses. LNL inserts or the co-ax are both a better solution for the way I reload (batch).
quote:
I also agree about the priming tool and the single priming operation of the Sinclair tool would probably not be good for doing my pistols. I was going to get the new RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool. Is this one good because I know a lot of people really like the Lee unit.

I started out with the Lee, but hand priming more than a hundred or so at a sitting would make my thumb numb. Most people that like the Lee like the price and the "feel". I couldn't tell any difference in the amount of "feel" between the Lee and the RCBS, but that may say more about my sense of feel than the tool's. I like the whole-hand operation of the RCBS, and it's tray is much easier to load from factory packaging than the smaller round tray on the Lee: the RCBS tray detaches from the handle to lay flat on the bench for loading, is large enough to lay a factory package in flat, has a gate to close/open the chute, and feeds more reliably from the corner than the Lee does from the side of its circular tray. The RCBS has considerably better materials and workmanship than the Lee. The automatic shell holder does take a little more effort to slide a shell in, overcoming the spring loaded jaws, but it does not bother me (it might if I reloaded 9mm or shorter cartridges). I just got a 2nd one to keep one set up for small primers and the other for large, since it is a bit tedious to change it back and forth. This way I also have two trays to load up and go (the trays are not specific to large or small primers like the Lee's).
quote:
Also, If I get the digital Sinclair concentricity gauge would I have need still for a good digital mic? I would rather spend the money on the more useful tool. I know eventually if I get into neck turner and I will need a tool to measure that.

The sinclair concentricity gauge will not let you measure case head diameter directly (you can compare one case to another though). You may want to check out the highly regarded Neco unit that Sinclair also sells.
quote:
Also, does anyone think the Sinclair Power Unit is a good investment? I am set up as a dealer with them and can get a good price on the unit.

I'm with Win 69; I'd much rather spend half that on a good bench mounted drill press that can be used for much more.
quote:
Ireload2 and Bear in Fairbank: Thanks for the suggestion on changing the caliber to an 8''.

DrWatson69, thanks for your suggestion on the different base, I do like that design better.


That was me Smiler You're welcome!

Andy
 
Posts: 315 | Location: Arlington TX | Registered: 21 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Hi!
I'll echo what others have said here... to buy as you go and not get everything at once. I just recently re-tooled for reloading after not having equipment for too many years, I used to own top-of-the-line Dillon equipment with all the trimmings (purchased all at once as you seem to be planning). When it came time to buy equipment again, here's how I did it:

First purchase:
Hornady L-n-L Single Stage Press
Dies and Shellholders for .243 and .260
A few boxes of large rifle primers
3 cannisters of powder (IMR4064, Varget, H414)
2 Boxes of bullets - Nosler BT and Hornady SST
Hornady L-n-L Powder Measure
A can of Hornady spray Lube

At the time, I already owned a pair of digital calipers, an accurate gram/grain scale, and had access to my friend's reloading books, so I didn't buy those things (although that's the FIRST thing I would have bought otherwise - a set of books, and the calipers and scale would have been included in my first purchase).

2nd purchase:
Redding powder trickler
Case Mouth Deburring Tool (Redding)
Primer auto-feed for Hornady press
Primer Pocket Flashhole Uniformer (Lyman)
Primer Pocket Cleaner (Hornady)
L.E. Wilson Case Trimmer
Primer Flip Tray (RCBS)
Extra bushings for L-n-L press

3rd purchase:
Primer Pocket Uniformer (Redding)
2oz. Imperial Case Lube (in case I run out of Hornady Spray Lube)
Lee Reloader Press for decapping
Lee universal decapping die for above press
L.E. Wilson 30 Deg. deburring tool for trimmer
L.E. Wilson case gauge for .243 Win and .260 Rem
Stony Point headspace gauge for calipers w/.400 insert
2 Extra inserts for Hornady L-n-L Powder Measure
My own set of reloading books (Lyman, Hornady, Speer, Nosler)

Everything in the first purchase was for BASIC reloading without any frills, followed in the 2nd purchase by basic case prep tools and reloading speed-enhancers, with the final purchase being convenient "frills" and specialized measurement instruments. I'll be making a 4th purchase in the future, which will include a few specialized dies and bushings.

Hope this gives you an idea of "purchase in stages". Good luck!
 
Posts: 75 | Registered: 14 February 2008Reply With Quote
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I MUCH prefer the RCBS universal primer. I like devices that eliminate shellholders.
The LEE need lee shellholders also BTW. I don't get why so many people love the LEE, I really can't see it. I have had one break in normal, gentle use, and the metal just seems cheap. They also require LEE shellholders, PITA compared to the RCBS unit. I'd give my LEE away to somebody at the range it they wanted it.
 
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004Reply With Quote
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A kinetic bullet puller would be handy.
C&H sell them.
http://www.ch4d.com/


Regards,
Bob.
 
Posts: 480 | Location: Australia | Registered: 15 August 2007Reply With Quote
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The only comment I have is on the sellection of the redding T-7 turrent press.

I use to have a Lyman that looks the same as what you are thinking about. I had issues with it though and got rid of it.

On FL sizing of rifle brass. the turret is not suported in the front and I found that it would cock slightly, thus getting an uneven sizing on the brass. I only used it a few times and switched over to a non turret press for that reason.

http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15047

In this link they talk about the Harell that you have asked about and show how they fixed that issue with this press, and what they thought about it as well.

So, I would think about getting another press (non turret), if it were me.
 
Posts: 270 | Location: Cedar Rapids IA | Registered: 02 November 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by mgoodrich:
The only comment I have is on the sellection of the redding T-7 turrent press.


Can't disagree here, but, the T-7 has a block at the rear of the turret to counter the upwards pressure on the front.

Mine rocked alarmingly just sizing a .223 case.
Too much clearance to the block at the back.

The fix (to some extent anyway) is to take off the big centre nut. Underneath is a spacer cylinder. With some emery on a flat surface ie a sheet of glass, grind some metal off.

Try as you go, too much means you wont be able to turn the turret.
Mine came up with a fair bit of drag on the turret, but still turnable. Hopefully that means very little flex.
 
Posts: 2355 | Location: Australia | Registered: 14 November 2004Reply With Quote
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You need some good reloading manuals. Read through the sections on reloading. Come to understand why things work the way they do. You'll be miles ahead that way, but nothing beats finally loading several hundred rounds. Good luck! Smiler


Red C.
Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion.
 
Posts: 909 | Location: SE Oklahoma | Registered: 18 January 2008Reply With Quote
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