I have worked and worked trying to get the accuracy out of my reloads that I do with Fed. 270Win cartridges. So on the advise of several of the tech support at companies like Sierra, I tried Varget, and IMR4064. They told me there is little chance that IMR4350 will work in these. So after 5 trips to the range, I couldn't get these faster powders to cycle in the gun and accuracy was marginally better than factory. I know I have never had a jam out of factory rem, federal's or winchesters and the recoil was much harder so I tried IMR4350, and worked great. Shot 40 rounds this weekend with no jams and accuracy was great. Goes to show that even though these guys are smart, they still don't know everything.

IMR4350 was all I would ever shoot in my .270 !!! If memory serves me right, something like 52.5-54gr behind a 140 Ballistic Tip. That used to give me .25-.50" accuracy in my 700 ADL.

bowhuntr

The reason you were warned away from slower powders was because they might produce excessive port pressures in an autoloader. I experience this with a BAR .270 and a powder about the equivalent of IMR 7828.

HOWEVER, as you have discovered, 4350 is actually more of a "medium" burning powder in the .270 and is probably about what Remington designed its 740-series in .270 for.

I haven't needed to load anything for my BAR .270 for years, but 4350 would be the first I would try.

On the other hand, while my bolt .30-06 does well with 4350, I would suspect 4350 could very well produce excessive port pressure with this round and would try something like 4320- or 4895 (or rough equivalent) if I were loading for an '06 autoloader.

4350 is a little slow in the �06. It will cycle the action, but problem is not peak pressure, rather that �$%& extractor. Some guns will tear rims within 20 rounds ...

If your gun shoots fine don�t touch that forearm screw!!

I would avoid anything slower than 4350. i would start low, and when gun starts to cycle I would look at accuracy ...

Consider selling that POS. Sorry, Hermann

Correct, aHunter, the problem with 4350 in a .30-06 autoloader is NOT peak pressure, but rather PORT pressure (the gas pressure at the gas-bleed port about 10 inches down the barrel). Excessive pressure at the bleed point causes the action to cycle much more violently than designed, which manifests itself in such ways as tearing rims or breaking action parts.

Guys, all I know is factory loads still must use slower powder than even IMR4350. There velocity is still greater than mine and recoil is noticably more. As far as selling, you must be smoking crack over there. No offense. This thing has downed more deer and boar than you could fill a railroad car with. Downed more than I bet most hunters will ever kill. This was just a post to give a follow up to a question asked a while ago.

Another train-car load of deer, hogs and coyotes here. All with my 1975 -vintage Remington Model 742 in .30/06. For the first ten years I owned this gun, I used whatever factory ammo was on sale the cheapest. No jams, no problems, lots of dead critters, almost all with one shot.

In 1985, I started handloading. In the late summer of 1986, I found THE load for this gun, and have used it ever since.

Remingington nickel-plated cases.
Remington 9 1/2 M (magnum) primers.
59.0 grains IMR-4350.
150 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip.

Still no jams, no problems, lots of dead critters, almost all with one shot.

No "chatter marks" inside the receiver on the bolt guide rails either.

I suspect Big has a partially clogged gas port. Could be a burr from the factory, could be accumulated fouling and jacket shavings.

He can go on using the loads that give him a little higher port pressure, or he can get a gunsmith to tear it gown and clean the port. I used the tip cleaners for my welding torch for this job.

The biggest problem with the Remington autoloaders is that if the port pressure is too high, it tends to tear the extractor out.

I hate that extractor design in an autoloader.

I might have a clogged gas port. I will admit it. Reason I say this is when I use wipe out on this gun, I see the foam come out of the gas port and its all gunky and copper blue comeing out. I just never figured a good way to finish my cleaning job by getting out all that junk of the gas port. Since I see all that copper blue come out, I know that is from the previous cleaning. Also wipe out has a sticky residue when dried. But then again I have never had a jam on factory loads. This brings up a good point. How do you guys clean that out?

Big,

It's been over ten years since I quit gunsmithing, and I don't have my shop manuals handy. The Rem 742 is the one that always came to me as the 7400 was fairly new when I quit. If my memory is right, after you take off the fore end and get the action bar and spring out of the way, there is a square steel block dovetailed into the underside of the barrel. This block can be drifted off and the gas port into the barrel exposed. I used the cleaners for the tips of my welding torch (little wires with grooves around them in a wide spread of sizes) to clean that hole. You also clean the holes in the block while you are at it.

I dunno that I recommend it for a home job. If your gunsmith is a friendly sort, I would suggest you get him to do it but ask to watch.

I reloaded for a 742 for years and it shot best with IMR 4895 :48grs with a 150gr Win sp. MOA accuracy and never failed. 2750fps with my chronograph.

IMR4895 and H4895 is used extensively for the M1 Garands. Right? It is faster burning than the 4064, so I was scared to try that.

For years the powder of choice was IMR 4895 or H4895 for the M1 until IMR 4064 was introduced. Then they switched because it was less fouling on the bore/ports. Today it is still commonly used along with my favorite VARGET in my 742 and BAR in 30-06 and 308 Win. VARGET has close to the same chamber/port pressure as IMR 4064 which makes it ideal for use in auto's like Remington 742 and Browning's. I have also noticed VARGET prefers CCI-BR2 and IMR 4064 prefer Fed 210 Match primers.

[ 07-26-2003, 05:41: Message edited by: Alaska Bush Man ]