This had happened to me once before in my .338 W Mag ,had to wait for a friendly smith to rescue me.Anyone knows of home remedies / procedures to regain posession of one's rifle.Thanks

sheephunter

[ 11-08-2003, 00:58: Message edited by: sheephunter ]

If a brush pushed down from the muzzle does not knock it out then push a .45 caliber brush into the chamber and pull back.

Tell us more about your rifle and ammunition.

Don't shoot the gun again until the cause of the head separations is discovered and cured.

In retrospect I should not have reloaded the brass again.I think there was a fine line above the head indicating the beginning of brass failure.I didnt realize as such though,before the head seperation.That was about 4 years ago.Have not used the rifle much since.Built 2 new rifles in 300 RUM and .Rem .416 ,both showed the fine line too after 1-5 shots.The 300 RUM got a new chamber since,as the reson was a grossly enlarged chamber,wrong reamer used initially.
The .416 is showing the separation when I load to 2450 fps on a 400gr bullet.There is 0.005" between brass and chamber.Apparently thats too hot for the chamber/brass combination.Will try 2300 to 2400.Dont have much hope that that will make a substantial diff but it needs to be tried.
Important thing is that I can get the brass out of the barrel if and when the head seperates.

sheephunter

Sheephunter,
I had the same thing happen to me. The rangemaster at the range I was shooting at came to the rescue. He had a 1/4" pipe tap brazed to a piece of 1/4" rod(about 12") with a 90 bent into it on the back side. You just run the tap into the case, turn it clockwise until it bites into the brass. This was on a 22/250, so i'm not sure what size tap you'll need.
Stepchild

[ 11-07-2003, 13:41: Message edited by: stepchild 2 ]

It was mentioned earlier, but I want to reenforce the idea. Assemble a new bronze bore brush, correct size for the caliber, to your cleaning rod. Remove the bolt from gun. Insert brush into breech end of chamber until you just feel the brush engage the neck of the separated case, then go a half-inch farther so the brush is in the case neck. Now pull it straight back out (don't twist). The separated case should come out with it. This works because of the way the bristles lay against the inside of the case neck. It will likely not work if the brush is inserted at the muzzle end.

If this does not work, the next step is a special tool designed for removal of separated cases. You can buy one or have your gunsmith do it.

I'm sorry stepchild2, but I respectfully disagree with you. I strongly recommend against inserting a 'pipe tap' or any other steel tool into the chamber (unless it's a specifically designed tool for removal of separated cases). This is a recipe for disaster as the chances of ruining the chamber are very high.

Live well

Big Redhead,
I only did this once and it worked fine. The tap never touched the chamber, just the inside of the case.
Stepchild

I've ruined two chambers using a concocted metal "tool". The last incident I had, of this sort, was with a .243. Using a 12ga bore brush, from the chamber end, worked like magic. It ruined the brush, but the case came out and the chamber was fine.

Brownell's Cerrosafe also works well and should not harm the barrel when used properly....

Ask me how I know?...

Regards, Bill

Sometimes you can get the separated front part of the case to fall out of the chamber simply by holding the rifle with its barrel pointing straight up and rapping the butt of the stock on the ground -- I know this works sometimes because I've done it successfully. Of course, in doing this you don't want to rap the rifle hard enough to ruin anything.

Thanks all,
in my past incidence the brush method didnt work.
brass was to tight in chamber.The gunsmith used Cerrosafe- I think.So Bill tell us how you get that stuff down into the cartridge without messing up the barrel

sheephunter

Sheephunter,

It was pretty easy in my case, had a case head separation on an Encore barrel - easy access to the "Breach"

For bolt actions, I think you can pour through a funnel in the loading port, or even fashion a funnel out of paper, as the melting point is very low (195 degrees F?).

I left a patched jag as a plug in the bore about 1/2" past the mouth of the case (inserted from the muzzle), and used enough cerrosafe to fill what was left of the case about 2/3 full. Let cool 30 minutes, screw the cleaning rod back onto the jag, and pop it out.

Sometimes, chambering an empty case behind the separated case works (worked on an M1A for me), but the Encore doesn't extract like a bolt. Bristle brush didn't work for me, either.

If you see that little line forming around your brass, just ahead of the base at the end of the web, they are ready for the garbage....

Regards, Bill

Thanks Bill,that sounds very doable and safe-if one avoids cerrosafe remnants in the chamber or barrel.I also tried ramming another cartridge into the damagged one ,I think with glue to make it stick to the first.The idea than to have the bolt pull out the 2 together.Didnt work.Made the removal of the damaged tougher.

<If you see that little line forming around your brass, just ahead of the base at the end of the web, they are ready for the garbage....>>

No question,its the beginning of the end.But some brass aint cheap,so one tries to get another load,thinking it will hold.

I have brass that yieilds that ring after 1 shot,
A good gunsmith tells me that in DG rifles ,one doesnt want tight chambers.I take his word,but hate it.

sheephunter

Sheephunter,

You are getting way too many head separations. Even one is too many of course.

Your FL die must be set correctly so as not to push the shoulder back too much. All of your rifles should have the headspace checked and finally make a feeler wire to find the insipiant separations before the separate. You must do this by reaching inside of the case. It's almost impossible to see them on the outside of a case until it's too late.

Be careful please.

Savage.you are correct
I dont like any,and "researched " for reasons
I dont use the FL die at all,as long as the brass isnt too tight,and mostly it cracks before that.
I just necksize,thats all
The 300 RUM rifle was rechambered and is doing better,have to see how many reloads I get from 1 piece.
I believe the 338 is also a chamber problem
theRem Mag .416,I believe is a chamber/brass problem.The brass diam is 0.005" smaller than the chamber.After 1 firing the brass assumes chamber diameter,the 2450 - 2500 fps with 82 gr RL15 have the hairline crack.I will see what powder reduction brings.

Not liking the result but nothing I can do about it.
sheephunter

Hello All

i) fit jag to cleaning rod
ii)cleaning rod up barrel and out of the muzzle
iii) wrap fine wire wool onto the jag
iv) pull it down the barrel
v) works like a charm.

Cheers edi

Wouldn't that steel wool be worse than sandpaper on the barrel : > ?

sheephunter