Hello to all:

This may have come up in previous threads before but I cant find anything that can help.

First off, I have read that you have to use a .355 diameter bullet to load with the 357 sig. Is this true and if so isnt a 9mm bullet the same thing. Can I buy regular FMJ 9mm bullets to load with.

Second these rounds will be shot out of a Glock so what kind of crimp will I need. I have been told to use a factory crimp die or a taper crimp die. I have also been told to back out the bullet seater and use the seating die to do a roll crimp. I am totally confused on this round.

Third I was told that even if I use carbine or titanium dies that I still have to bue my cases.

If anybody can help I would sure appreciate it. I really would like to load with this round as the factory cost of the load is way to expensive to shoot.

Thanks a millon
Richard W. Gullotto

The 357Sig shoots a .355 bullet. Yes, it is the same bullet that is used in the 9mm.
I'm a little surprised that you can buy titanium or carbide dies for the 357Sig. They are normally only available for straight walled cartridges. Not sure how they work on a bottle neck cartridge.
A little lube makes all sizing easier and less stressing to the cases and dies. I use lube even when using dies/bushings that do not require it.
As to the crimp; if the case headspaces on the case mouth, like the 9mm, .380, 45acp and many other auto-loading cartridges, then you can not roll crimp. This is normally reserved for rimmed cases with straight walls like the 44mag, etc.
VH

Varmithunter,

Sorry about that. I dont know if I can buy carbine or titatinum dies or not. I was just told that if I do buy them for a bottle neck case then I have to lube them.

Thanks
Richard W. Gullotto

I've loaded for the .357 Sig using a Dillon 4-stage press. The dies are the Dillon Carbide, and I use their crimping die. I still lube the cases, and never had a problem. 124gr Hornady (XTP or FMJ) and 9.92grns HS6 (start low...). The crimp on the Sig is tricky. I purchased a .40S&W barrel for the Glock, and do most of my practice shooting with this, finding the .40 easier and a bit cheaper to reload in qty. Good luck!

Regards,

Bill

I too use the Dillon dies on a RL550B for use in my Glock 33. The diameter of .355 is correct as for the 380ACP or 9mm but usually these bullets in the normal 357 sig weight of 125 grains is too long and tapered to feed well...at least they don't work for me. I've got the better part of 500 Winchester .355 flat base 125 grain FMJ bullets that just won't work. Speer makes a 125 grain FMJ just for the 357 sig that works great for practice and they sell it in a 'value pack.'

It all stems from the short neck and how it contacts the bullet without being overly long to feed through your magazine. Only bell the case mouth just enough to start the bullet...too much and you lose grip. Taper crimp very lightly.

Remember that the 357sig has very little neck to hold the bullet .Make sure that the neck is firmly gripping the bullet otherwise the bullet may be pushed back when chambering creating dangerous pressures. This may happen even with a firm grip if the same round is chambered a number of times.

I overload pistols to see how much power is possible, and I can get more power out of a 357Sig overloaded than I can from a 25acp, 32sw, 32 S&W Long, or 32acp.
But I can't get as much power from a 357Sig oveloaded as I can from overloading a 7.62x25mm, .380, 9x19mm, 9x23mm, 38 sp, 357 mag, 38sw, 40 S&W, 10mm, 44 mag, 45 acp, or 45 Colt.

It is a real puzzle for me why the primer falls out of the cases in my two 357 Sig pistols at WAY below the power of the overloaded .380. I guess nobody cares why but me.

Anyway, the big cashe of .357 Sig information is a GLocktalk and realguns.
http://glocktalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=179946&highlight=Sig
http://www.real-guns.com/Commentary/comar25.htm
http://www.real-guns.com/Commentary/comar27.htm
http://www.real-guns.com/archives/077.htm
http://www.real-guns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm
http://www.real-guns.com/Commentary/comar66.htm
http://www.real-guns.com/Commentary/comar5.htm

[ 08-31-2003, 06:33: Message edited by: Clark ]

I had same problem, but found a fix to the crimp issue.

1st fix. Just forget about 357sig, and go with 40S&W. This is what I did.

2nd fix. Since I took the plung and got those deals from midway for 1000s of peices of brass, I decided to make this work. So I got a factory crimp die for a 40S&W from Lee. I bought the 9mm insert for a Lee 9mm Crimp die, and put it in my 40S&W crimp die, and crimp that way. to test I take 8 rounds and cycle them thru my pistol with out firing, and remeasure the COL. With this method, I have no or little change in COL. Using the taper crimp on the LEE sizing die, it wouldn't hold the bullet firmly.

I have been reloading for the SIG for about a year now and it can be reloaded with good quality ammo but your reloading practices must be very good. The 1st thing I discovered is that it works much better to seat and crimp in seperate dies. The second is to use a bullet that is designed for the sig. The 2 best I have found is the MONTANA gold 125 fmj and the rainier 125 fmj.
2nd thing I found was that if you bell the case mouth at all you can't put enough crimp on it to hold the bullet securely, set your powder/belling station to put no bell on the case mouth and you will find that a light crimp after that will hold the bullet quite securely.
3rd thing I found was that AA#9 is a perfect powder for the 357 sig, you can use 11.5-13 grains. at 13 grains it is a lightly compressed load and it will not allow the bullet to slip down into the case. and last but not least is to sort your brass so that you only load for one kind of brass at a time as different kinds of brass need to have the crimp adjusted slightly for best hold.

[ 09-05-2003, 18:01: Message edited by: sjf ]