I am planning on buying all new equipment to get into reloading. I will only be reloading rifle and pistol cartridges. What do you recommend I get? It is hard to find reviews on all the different equipment out there. I am thinking about getting the Rock Chucker Master Reloading Kit and the Lyman 1200 DPS electronic powder scale. Is this a good choice for someone just starting out? I have also contemplated buying all the different equipment separately to get the best of everything. Any suggestions on equipment would be greatly appreciated.

If I were starting out and knew what I know now and were buying thing separately this is what I would get:

1. A Redding T-7 turret press.
2. Redding dies/shell holders. For straightwalled casses, only get carbide dies.
3. A Hornady and a Nosler reloading manual.
4. An RCBS powder measure.
5. An RCBS balance beam scale. Sorry, I don't trust the electronic scales.
6. Imperial Sizing Wax and Imperial Dry Neck Lube and I would NEVER get the sticky RCBS goop.
7. A Redding case trimmer.
8. A vibratory case cleaner. I have one by Lyman and I like it.
9. A dial indicator (brand unimportant).
10. A Lee handheld primer seater. RCBS also makes one that is probably just as good or maybe better but I've never used the RCBS version.

Those are the things I would get but opinions will vary. I got a Rockchucker kit to start and can highly recommend it; I still after many years use most of the equipment that came with that kit and used it exclusively for many years.

quote:

I am thinking about getting the Rock Chucker Master Reloading Kit and the Lyman 1200 DPS electronic powder scale.

I'm not at all sure what all is in the RCBS Kit but FWIW here's the list I'd get

Rockchucker (or Coax by Forester) press

dies from RCBS as needed and shell holders as well

double ended ID/OD chamfer tool from Wilson or RCBS

RCBS balanced beam scale.....the cheap model will do fine

funnel

Dial calipers

Two (at least) good loading manuals

loading block.....plastic ones are fine but one can make them too!

Can/container of Imperial sizing wax

Priming tool.....(I use the one in the press but others recommend a hand held priming tool)

A case trimmer.....either the forester or Wilson and appropriate shell holders and pilots as needed.

plastic spoon and small bowl....(dribbler is nice but not necessary)

powder, primers, and bullets as you like

There's a lot one can add later but I'd recommend starting basic and add from there.

Wyatt, Grumulkin is just old fashioned, the digital scales are the way to go. Get the RockChucker Master kit with the digital dispenser scale combo.

I like everything else Grumu touts OK, but I have had very few die problems, and own a lot of Redding dies, but the die issues I have had have mostly been with reddings--plus they don't have a vent hole, which is just stupid on a sizing die IMO.

I prefer the Wilson or RCBS case trimmers, and I have both primer tools, and I am one of the one that hates the lee--it reequires special case holders, the RCBS model available now is universal--NO shellholders--sweet--and I think is way better than the lee.
I guess by 'dial indicator' he means a pair of dial calipers, and you do need one, I prefer to buy better measuring tools though, so I have a couple of Mitutoyo's, not the most $ but a bit more than a plastic cheapo......

Two small things I find that really make the reloading process 'nicer' are the Satern Powder funnels--which are caliber specific, and the Deluxe loading blocks from Sinclair, they are just the right weight, dishwasher safe if you're anal about clean, and the hold the cases just right.

I also use a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer to clean up my primer pockets, maybe a little overkill, but I like the result it gives me.

Good luck with your 're-start'!

On the other hand... I was (am) poor...

FIRST! Get yourself 3 or 6 or more used loading manuals at a gun show. Different brands. You will find one "reads easier" than the others. Buy a new one of that brand for current reloading data to use.

Study all these manuals. "Find your groove."

Will you load 20 or 40 rounds per year for a deer rifle? Or will you reload 1,000s of rounds per year for lots of pistol practice (competition?). In a bolt action, neck sizing only, you could get by with a LEE loader for the first. Or get the "hand press" and "dies." For the second you might be much happier with a Dillion or LEE "progressive" loader...

Now the super committed match characters don't even use a press. Wilson "hand dies" among others.

You going to used range pick up brass or brand new top quality??? Lapua? Winchester? How much "case prep" do you plan to do?

This is an unending hobby. You will always be able to find something new to try. (New to you.) Save yourself a bundle. Start slow. Add what you need as you need it or think you do. [AND the budget permits.] Take is slow. Enjoy the trip. I don't plan to part with my Rockchucker any time soon (after 40 yrs. approx.) but I have to admit that the Rolls Royce press(es) are by the Corbins... Dave (swage.com) and Richard (rceco.com) and are designed for bullet swaging. Reloading is "light work" ... HAPPY NEW YEAR. Happy trails.

quote:

I will only be reloading rifle and pistol cartridges.

It's almost impossible to beat a starter kit for the new hand loader. Simply put, until you develop a preference for certain equipment or hand tools, starter kits contain the necessary essentials. What one doesn't want to do is purchase garage sale or pawn shop items that one isn't familiar with. Buying worn out dies and abused equipment will not save you money!

quote:

Originally posted by Wyat:
I am planning on buying all new equipment to get into reloading. I will only be reloading rifle and pistol cartridges. What do you recommend I get? It is hard to find reviews on all the different equipment out there. I am thinking about getting the Rock Chucker Master Reloading Kit and the Lyman 1200 DPS electronic powder scale. Is this a good choice for someone just starting out? I have also contemplated buying all the different equipment separately to get the best of everything. Any suggestions on equipment would be greatly appreciated.

Wyat,

Ditto what Buckshot said.

The Rockchucker is an excellent press and can be the center of an excellent reloading suite of equipment. As I recall, the kit contains almost everything else that you you need. Just add dies, shell holders and consumables. There might be a couple of minor tools to add, but nothing significant. The other major manufacturers also have excellent kits.

As you develop a "style" and your preferences mature you will wind up replacing many of the original kit's items (which you will sell or give away to friends). But until you have reloaded for a while, I would not try to get "the best" because your tastes have not been tempered by experience and your advisors' tastes will probably be different than yours.

On buying used equipment, sometimes you can find some real treasures. I know of one guy who got a perfectly serviceable Rockchucker for $5 at a Value Village. I suspect it did not have the primer seating stuff, but many people remove that anyway, preferring a bench mounted priming tool or the RCBS or Lee hand primer. I got a bench-mounted RCBS priming tool for $20 with extra feed tubes. If you know what you are looking at (BIG Caveat there) used is good. On the other hand, I wasted $20 on a dial caliper I find pretty much useless.

My advice, buy the kit (which comes with a scale, if I remember correctly) and get familiar with the process. Refine your equipment later.

On scales, I still use my RCBS 505 balance beam to check my powder throws. I don't need an electronic scale. My shooting buddy has an electronic scale, so I have used one, but I am not moved to desire, yet.

Welcome to reloading and Happy New Year

Lost Sheep

ps I will post my "10 Advices on Reloading" momentarily where I pontificate on such things as Aluminum vs Cast Iron.

Welcome to your new obsession.

Now, here are my Ten Advices.

So much is a matter of personal taste. All advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".

When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2 x 6 plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. 30 years later, I still use the same plank, but not it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.

Advice #1 I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on data, yes, but I found it full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offereings in your local library. Dated, perhaps, but you can taste-test their writing style. Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.

Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel)

The reason you want more than one or two is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.

Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of a reloading kit and know what parts you will use and what parts the kits lack.

The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.

There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.


Load mid-range or slightly light at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that)

You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for floor covering when you pick your reloading room. (Note: my worktable is portable, a folding workbench with two presses mounted on a board that I simply clamp into place. One press has a large primer feed, the other a small primer feed.)



Advice #2 Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy.

Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least..

Advice #3 Learn on a single stage press or a turret press. Do not learn on a progressive press. Too many things happening at the same time are hard to keep track of.

Advice #4 Tungsten Carbide dies for your straight-walled cartridge cases. They do not require lubrication which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.

Advice #5 Find a mentor. There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")

I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. There is nothing like a tutor, or better yet, a mentor. A longer mentoring period might have changed my reloading style, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. Then I educated myself after that.

After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.

Advice #6 Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers

Advice #7 Don't pinch your fingers in your press.

Advice #8 Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I read.
https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpB...625361fbd5ae1f754eec
The second one is a thread started by a new recruit to reloading whcih the moderators thought highly enough of to make it "sticky" so it stays on the top of the list of threads.

Advice #9 When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy cheap (too cheap) it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.

Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep

I am a novice myself and with some help from those posting here I bought the RC Supreme Master Reloading Kit. I also bought a Forster Co-Ax press which I just love. From there it was the shell holders, dies, etc for the cartridges I was reloading for. I also bought a RCBS stuck case remover which I've only used twice but was certainly glad I had it. In my case I decap before cleaning so I bought the RCBS universal decapping die. I know you'll enjoy your new found hobby.

Ken....

Your in AZ !. Check Dillon and it's advantages before purchasing anything else !.

quote:

Originally posted by Wyat:
I have also contemplated buying all the different equipment separately to get the best of everything.

+1

I bought the Rockchucker kit last year & it works just fine.
I'd probably have gone with the Hornady L-N-L Kit if I'd known about the free bullets offer (It's continuing in 2009), as it's similarly priced.
I've now fitted the Rockchucker with the L-N-L conversion bushing & it sure does speed up die changes.

I started with the simple Lee case trimmers & then bought a Forster trimmer - then went back to the Lee trimmers, as they're a damn' sight easier & more accurate!

I've also bought the RCBS Chargemaster powder dispenser/scale combo & it really speeds up loading rifle cartridges, as you can be seating bullets whilst the next load is dispensed. My purchase was based on THIS review, so the Lyman DPS III may well perform better than the DPS II tested.

I found the Lyman 48th Edition reloading manual to be the easiest to follow & much more than just a list of calibers & loads, with clear instructions & explanations of the "whys" behind the various stages of reloading. It's now superseded by the 49th Edition.

quote:

Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least..

Both Lost Sheep and Win 69 speak well.

I'll only change a bit of Sheep's comments by saying ALL OUR MAKERS PRODUCE GOOD TOOLS, period!

Lee makes both alum. alloy AND steel presses. Most of the snears against Lee's tools are people who compare Lee's alum presses to their own favorite cast iron press, not exactly an intellecturally honest thing to do.

Lee's Classic Cast single stage press is the strength, precision and durability equal of any common reloading press, at any price.

RCBS makes, or at least used to make, a nice little alum press but I don't keep up with them anymore. Hornady's big LnL is alum alloy and it does a fine job too. No one faults them for being "pot metal!"

Your caution about kits is well founded. All kits I've ever seen have a combination of what I consider good mixed with some better items. I've loaded since '65 and with a wide varitety of brands, most of those who reccommend one brand are honest in that they feel it has given them good service but they have little experience to compare things too.

I say the "best" tools are:

1. Press - Lee Classic Cast. Single stage presses are best to learn on. Turrets have little advantage, if any, over a single stage and progressives are too bit much for a beginner to start on. Even if you eventually want a progressive later, you will still have plenty of use for a big single stage press.

I see no advantage to any quick-twist "insert" die changing system either. It actually saves very little time and adds another place for die-to-press misalignment. It really isn't too complex for most of us to just screw our dies in and out the normal way so it's an answer for which we really have no question.

2. Dies - Lee. Carbide for pistol. RGB for basic rifles, 30-30, etc. Get Lee Delux sets for better rifles, especially for big game stuff. The Delux sets include a shell holder while the RGB sets, nor any other die brand, do not. (You MUST have shell holders for each size of case head, not each cartridge. I mean, .45 ACP, 243, 308, 270, 30-06, etc. all use the same case holder.)

Okay, I do believe both Lyman and Redding pistol dies are the actual "best" of the bunch because of their excellant expander plug design but the Lee pistol dies also work pretty well.

Lee's Collet Neck Sizer and Factory Crimp Dies, rifle and pistol, are the best of their types when used correctly.

Lee's Universal Decap die is very good, very tuff. I'd suggest you spring for a little Lee "Reloader" press and set that press and die up as a dedicated decapping station. No matter what major press you may have, decapped primer grit will get in the ram hole and cause excess wear. If the "Reloader" ram gets a little loose, who cares!

Later, you may want to add more advanced - expensive - die sets such as those from Redding or Forster for those few rifles that shoot well enough to persue high accuracy with. Otherwise, there is really no accuracy advantage to any dies between those two extremes in price.

3. Scale - The RCBS 505 or 1005 (made by Ohaus) are the standards of accuracy and dependability. The 505 is plenty for common reloading chores. But, fact is, the scales by Redding, Hornady and Lyman are just as good, they all read to plus or minus .1 gr, no more, no less.

Digital scales are now poplular but are in still their infancy. With a few exceptions of course, they are NOT as dependable and long lived as a beam scales. Nor do they usally follow small changes from a trickler very smoothly. And they tend to get quirky in use. Trust me on this, I used to repair precision electronic measurement instruments in the space program and NO digital scale is on my loading bench!

4. Powder measure - Redding's 3BR or its clone by Hornady. Both have excellant micrometer heads, which RCBS charges more for as an add on to their already over priced measure. IF you plan to load a lot of handgun stuff get the accessory pistol drum for it.

But, DON'T get the Redding BR-30 measure, it only drops small charges and has little application to common rifle loading.

5. Powder trickler - Redding. It is heavy enough to be stable. You will use it to trickle up charges while using your scale.

6. Bullet puller - RCBS, impact type. It's sort of an erasure for reloaders.

7. Stuck Case Remover - RCBS, the screw in type.

8. Primer Tool - Lee's Auto Prime. It's a hand held unit as good as any for a new guy, and most of the rest of us and it's better than some of it's competitors. And get the complete set of shell holders that go with it, you WILL want that versatility later.

9. Case trimmer - Wilson is "best" but the Lyman "Universal" is good too, you won't go wrong with either one. The Lyman comes with 9 case pilots, is very versitile and needs no shell holders for any cartridge. Lyman also has trimmer accessories for deburring, primer pocket reaming and cleaning, etc.

At the other price exteme, Lee's case trimmer tools are very good, easy to use - of course.

10. Deburr tool - if you don't get the Lyman trimmer and it's tools, get a hand held Lyman or RCBS type debur tool.

11. Case lube - Imperial Die Wax, finger applied for rifle cases. Hornady 1-Shot for pistol cases.

12. Caliper - Any of the Chinese dial types are good enough. They are all made in the same plant so it doesn't matter whose brand is on them. Harbor Freight tools sell the same ones as the big boys but for as little as $15. MidwayUSA sells the same ones pretty cheap too.

Get the dial type, not a digital. Digital calipers are no more accurate, perhaps even a little less, and they won't work without good batteries. That can be a hassle when you want to use it NOW!

You really need something to keep track of case stretching/trimming and, to some degree, the OAL length of your loaded ammo. A simple dial caliper does both jobs very well.

13. COAL and Case Length Gage system - You can get by without these but, if you want them, get the Hornady tools for best versatility But you MUST have a caliper to use them on!

14. Information - Books. Perhaps the most info for new guys is in Lee's "Modern Reloading", "ABCs of Reloading" and the Lyman Reloading Manuals; any editions will do nicely. Read their instructions for the fundamentals of loading until you get the point. THEN start using your shiney tools! And come back here for questions that WILL still arise.

15. A Bench - It gets overlooked by such lists of "tools" but perhaps the most critical piece of "equipment" you can have for good work is a sturdy reloading bench. Make it big enough and at the right height. Have good light. Lots of storage shelves, above and under the bench top. Have one shelf at nose height to place your powder scale and trickler on.

16. Powder funnel, case holder/loading blocks... any brand will do nicely.

17. Vib. Tumbler - Not essential but very nice. There is little practical difference in any of them. I like my old Lyman 1200 but it seems we all like what we have, no standouts in the bunch. And use either walnut or cob media, both work fine, there is no practical difference at all.

IF you want shiney brass use any inepensive auto polish - add a cap full at a time when you need it - instead of the much more expensive branded types. It's all the same stuff anyway. Nu-Finish is very popular. Avoid any polish that includes ammonia.

To seperate the cleaned/polished cases and media, get a common office trash container of expanded wire mesh, the stuff that looks like 1/4" fish net, and sift the tumbler contents through it. You can get the trash can for as little as a couple of bucks at a Dollar General Store and use a 3-5 gal. plastic paint pail to catch the media, no expensive spining sifter needed.

quote:

Originally posted by Wyat:
Any suggestions on equipment would be greatly appreciated.

Get a Sinclair catalog. It has all the good equipment in it, although they have added some lesser stuff in the past year.

I have only used a RCBS Rock Chucker press kit! It has done everything I need it to do, without any problems. The RCBS kit should serve you well. If your kit comes with the 505 beam scale, then I would postpone the digital scale purchase. If digital is what you would like, go digital micrometer, and digital calipers for starter. Reloading manuals, two minimum - more is better. Universal Depriming die - mine is a Lee.
RCBS dies have been my mainstay, no problems encountered. Reserve a new/untainted small bottle of Hoppes solvent to clean your die(s).
Mega (500) pack of Q tips to use with the solvent to clean up inside of your die sets each reloading session. A good glass magnifying lens will come in handy. Smith and Wesson safety glasses if you don't already have eye protection. A USB thumb drive to keep all your reloading notes, inventory spreadsheets, etc stored on.

Thanks for all the info. There is a lot of great sugestions here. I am leaning towards just geting the RCBS master kit and then build from there.

quote:

Originally posted by Wyat:
Thanks for all the info. There is a lot of great sugestions here. I am leaning towards just geting the RCBS master kit and then build from there.

While this might not be the least cost method it' certainly is among the sound methods....you'll probably won't regret 95% of this decision and the rest may not be worth the effort to avoid.

You could do a lot worse than acting on this decision.

I got started with the RCBS Rockchucker kit.

I will color in red the stuff from it that I still use:

1) Forster Co-ax press, two modified jaw sets, screwed to a board, board clamped to a table
2) Forster full length dies, factory honed out necks, no decapping stem
3) RCBS uniflow powder measure
4) RCBS 505 powder scale, on a shelf behind my head at eye level
5) Redding Imperial die wax
6) Wilson case mouth chamfer
7) Forster priming tool, with modified RCBS primer tray, & paper clamp
8) Lee de-priming die
9) Lyman moly vibrator kit, 6,000 Copperhead BBs, & a big Neodymium magnet
10) Berry's Bullets vibrator cleaner
11) Any $20 Chinese 6" dial caliper
12) Any Chinese pin gauge sets .060 to .500"
13) Lyman pocket uniformer [for cleaning]
14) Quickload program on my computer
15) Sinclair concentricity gauge
16) Sinclair bullet comparator
17) Berry's Bullets ammo boxes, labled with post-its, marked with a Sharpie
18) Donegan Opti-visor
19) Luxo magnifier lamp
20) A radio to listen to when reloading while sitting in an office chair
21) I stock 40 powders, but can get along with just:
.a) Power Pistol
. b) Blue Dot
. c) H110
. d) IMR4895
. c) H4350
22) I stock lots of primers, but I could get along with just any brand in:
. a) small pistol
.b) large pistol
.c) magnum small rifle.
. d) large rifle


What does it all mean?
These elements of the Rockchucker kit are NOT used:
1) Rock Chucker Single Stage press
2) Speer Reloading Manual
3) Case Loading Block
4) Case Lube Kit
5) brass trimmer

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
I got started with the RCBS Rockchucker kit.

I will color in red the stuff from it that I still use:

tnekkcc,

I have to say that your post (along with Jim C's post) is one of the most comprehensive, direct to the point, informative and USEFUL posts I have ever seen on any forum.

Thanks for the effort.

Lost Sheep

Happy New Year.

quote:

tnekkcc, I have to say that your post (along with Jim C's post) is one of the most comprehensive, direct to the point, informative and USEFUL posts I have ever seen on any forum.
Thanks for the effort. Lost Sheep

Thanks Lost. I don't do that often because it seems few of the OPs pay any attention! Oh well, they WILL learn...Usually...Eventually.

Wow!! You got a whole lot of advice--- real cheap too.

I found Richard Lee's book MODERN RELOADING very worth while and an easy read. I suggest reading it for someone starting out---about $13. He of course pushes his own stuff. The book also has a lot of reloading data.

Lee's entry level kits have started a lot of reloaders out.

I bought a simple electronic scale and it works well--speeds up the process.

Again, lots of good advice here.

I started many many years ago, and the way I did it was to make some friends who reloaded. Got "invitations" to their reloading benches to see and possibly use their equipment. Great way to learn. Then, watched local ads for those quitting reloading and bought stuff that way. A few items from Ebay. Now you could also check Craigslist, and many good items come up for sale here on AR. I have a great reloading kit for very little money. About the only thing I purchased new was case lube!

The only way to find out for sure is to buy one of everything. Try them all. Send me all the stuff you don't want or need.


muck

I checked out the foster co-ax press and it looks really nice. I also really like the looks of the 1010 rcbs scale. As far as powder ticklers go I think I will get a Redding. I can’t decide on the hand primers and am leaning towards the rcbs. I believe I will end up getting the lee powder measurer, its cheap and from what I have heard works just as well as the rcbs. Thanks for all the help! As a get more experience I will add to my collection as needed.

quote:

Originally posted by Wyat:
I checked out the Forster Co-Ax press, and it looks really nice. I also really like the looks of the 10-10 RCBS scale. As far as powder ticklers go, I think I will get a Redding. I can’t decide on the hand primers and am leaning towards the RCBS. I believe I will end up getting the Lee powder measurer; its cheap and, from what I have heard, works just as well as the RCBS. Thanks for all the help! As I get more experience I will add to my collection as needed.

Now you're catching on. You may just want to put off getting the powder measure until you have some experience with powders. In the meantime, a spoon or a set of Lee dippers and your scale used in conjunction with the Redding trickler (right choice) will serve as well as a measure. The Lee unit does as well with difficult powders as the top units, which don't do a very good job either. It leaks other powders. Not much of an investment if you do choose to experiment with it, though. Eventually, you will want something like the RCBS ChargeMaster if you're working with stick powder. If you do decide to look at powder measures, the Redding 3BR has an excellent reputation, but it doesn't like stick powder any better than any other of its design.

A Sinclair catalog will lead you to the better accessories. Has anyone suggested Imperial sizing wax?

The RCBS Universal hand-priming tool is getting favorable recognition by users.

If you decide to look at simpler press designs, the Reddings are very well made.