1) Are there any basic reloading theories one should follow as one slowly progresses through this hobby?

2) Faster powders vs. Slower powders;
How does this all relate to bullet weight & cartridge size?

3) What is the theory about achieving high percentage loading densities?

4) What theories should I be mindful of that is often over-looked by new-comers such as myself?

Any replies would be greatly appreciated, just trying to soak up all I can. I'm finding all of this info so fascinating.

I am proud to say I am consummed & obsessed with this hobby as a new-comer, I love it!!!

Ihave a theory that has served me well for a very long time.....it goes like this:
If accuracy is measured by a foot long ruler, then finding the bullet that is right for your rifle is 10" of it. Finding the powder that best drives that bullet is another 1" and the last inch is comprised of all the other things put together.

Make sure the shooter and rifle are able before you spend a lot of time reloading and then find the bullet that makes the sweetest music. If you're looking for a good hunting bullet you may have to settle for a 1 1/4" group but at least you'll have a great load in the end.....accuracy is very important but it's not the total reason to reload.

quote:

Originally posted by Late-Bloomer:
1) Are there any basic reloading theories one should follow as one slowly progresses through this hobby?

2) Faster powders vs. Slower powders;
How does this all relate to bullet weight & cartridge size?

3) What is the theory about achieving high percentage loading densities?

4) What theories should I be mindful of that is often over-looked by new-comers such as myself?

Any replies would be greatly appreciated, just trying to soak up all I can. I'm finding all of this info so fascinating.

I am proud to say I am consummed & obsessed with this hobby as a new-comer, I love it!!!

Sit back and read the front part of your reloading manuals. They usually have a quite extensive theory & operation guide. Don't let anyone bug you while doing your research & have fun. You will know you are on the right track when you crush a case, stick a case in the die, charge a case w/ powder & seat a bullet & realize the powder is leaking out of that little hole where the primer was supposed to be. We have all been there!!! Welcome to the club

quote:

What theories should I be mindful of that is often over-looked by new-comers such as myself?

Most off the shelf hunting rifles will not do a 5 shot dime size group at 100 yards!!!!
Like Vapo stated 1 1/4, time after time is a damn fine group. It is about be able to reproduce a good group again and again!

quote:

Originally posted by Late-Bloomer:
1) Are there any basic reloading theories one should follow as one slowly progresses through this hobby?

2) Faster powders vs. Slower powders;
How does this all relate to bullet weight & cartridge size?

3) What is the theory about achieving high percentage loading densities?

4) What theories should I be mindful of that is often over-looked by new-comers such as myself?

Any replies would be greatly appreciated, just trying to soak up all I can. I'm finding all of this info so fascinating.

I am proud to say I am consummed & obsessed with this hobby as a new-comer, I love it!!!

Hey L-B

1. What comes to mind is to always start lower and work up. It doesn't matter if you have shot the same load in the same caliber but in a different rifle, start lower and work up.

2. Unfortunately, the unwritten rule is that a lighter bullet in a caliber uses a faster powder and the heavier bullets need a slower powder. I say unfortunately because it would work better the other way because heavier bullet seat deeper in the case and the case will then have less capacity.

For example in 30-06 with the 165 gr bullet, IMR4831 or IMR4350 would probably be best. With the 200 gr bullet a slower powder like RL22 would most times be the best.

3. Most shooters would agree that loads that are full or even slightly compressed yield the best accuracy and velocities. That is the reason for Ackley cases is that you can stuff more slow burning powders in the case to gain velocity.

4. Start keeping records immediately and measure everything. The most useful tools I have are the Hornady (used to be Stoney Point) tools that measure distance to lands and the Head & Shoulders Gauge that will tell you where your shoulder is in relation to your chamber.

I guess the main thing is to stay on here and read everything and ask questions if you don't agree or comprehend.

JMHO

One thing Woods touched on, and I think is really important, maybe cause I learned by not being real thorough when I first started, but keeping a log and recording all the data is really a good tip.

When I first started, I only kept the data relative to the load itself, not the results at the range, other than to make a note that it shot OK or not. It is really helpful to record everything, which I learned quickly, but it is the data that gives you a baseline to improve upon. just getting a load that shoots is different from developing a load for accuracy.

As to theory, do a search here on AR, and read a bit about the Creighton Audette 'ladder' method, Hot Core will probably come on and give the technically proper name for it, I think he calls it something like 'the never improved upon Creighton Audette method' or something, it is a great way to develop an accuracy load.

Really good tools last and are enjoyable to use, I would always by the best tool I could afford, especially in tools like your calipers (i.e. measuring devices)

Develop a method for segregating your brass/loads for each rifle, I use the 50 round plastic boxes, and write a description of the particular rifle that box goes with, and then the only rifle those rounds will go in is the 'dedicated' rifle.

Good shooting!

I've got some info for you. It is my opinion that you will become MORE anal, like many of us with each new trick you learn. You may even go overboard with your hunting rifle in attempts to achieve the ultimate loads. Then, once you have learned many many tricks in the next day, week, or years, you will decide which ones affect you and your rifle the most and you'll probably just focus on them from here on out.

It really just depends on what you are striving for. What are your goals.

Example: When going to the range to start testing different loads, the most FAIR way to do it is load 7 of each test round (same primer, powder and charge, bullet, brass, and seating depth.

Make sure barrel is CLEAN between each and every test (7 rounds), especially when changing bullets or powders. It is the most fair way to assess how those 7 rounds will perform. 2 are foulers, then let the bbl cool for 5 min or so, then the other 5 are for grouping.

It is NOT a good idea to go to the range with 2 test series with all identical components even down to bullet brand, but let's say you are shooting a 130 TSX in a 270, and the next series is the 140 grain, but all other components are the same. You shouldn't shoot all of those, then push a bunch of Nosler partitions or Hornady moly coated bullets in the next 2 series without thoroughly cleaning your bore.

For general hunting applications, like deer sized game, I honestly like to try a bunch of different bullets, with a mid range selection of powders, 1 primer only....I ONLY USE FEDERAL GOLD MEDAL MATCH. And Winchester brass is first choice.

The problem with this is it's really too much selection. So, I'd advise you read and ask about as many bullets for a task as you can, find out what is popular, what works, and what YOUR EXPECTAIONS are for the bullet when you are asking it to perform. Do you want a hole in and a hole out? Do you care? Do you care if a bullet explodes once inside the vitals?

It is YOUR money and don't let anyone tell you what you NEED and what isn't NECESSARY for a deer (as an example). If you want to plug it with remmy corelokts, go for it, they kill and kill just fine, PERIOD. If you want a bullet with more pizazz, spend some bucks and try partitions, TSX, northfork, MRX, whatever.

A remmy will kill any deer on the planet but overall, and in general, they aren't very concentric and are not great for accuracy.

Typically, the more you spend, you get what you pay for.

Sorry for rambling, but what I'm getting at, is it is appropriate, and reasonable to pick a bullet or 2 for the task. Use one brand of primer and brass. Try 3 powders at first, then go to work.

I have found, in general, that in non magnum calibers, the load with ONE grain more than minimum charge of a given powder that is most accurate, will be easiest to work with.

As an example, I take a test series of 270 to the range using all identical components except powder. I'm testing the following:

130 TSX
IMR4350, IMR4831, Re19, Re22
WW brass
FED210 GM

I've already shot the minimal charge of each. Now I'm up to one grain over min. The Re19 groups best. I have found, in many cases, that this powder will have lower extreme spread, and across the powder charges, from min to max, will shoot best without much deviation in group sizes.

Once I find the powder, I start monkeying with seating depth to see if there is indeed a sweet spot. Sometimes there is, sometimes not, or the changes are minimal.

Another good example is my brother's 270 with 130 Btip and H4831SC. 1 grain over min and she printed less than an inch. After that, didn't matter as powder was increased by 1/2 grain increments, the groups were all under an inch. At 57.0 grains he shot right at 1/2". Tweeked seating depth, went back to range, and first 3 made a little tiny hole...DONE. Tested identical rounds next day, spread to .3"....He said, Ok, we're very much done here. Load 'em up.

He has 500.

If you study Speer 12 and look for trends and principals, you will be frustrated.

Like the Kennedy assassination evidence, someone has been altering the information.

If you study the SAAMI ratings for cartridges and compare it to cartridge design, you will be frustrated.

Like John McCain getting better press than Newt Gingrich, there is no justice.

If you go to most on line reloading forums and post data the conflicts with published data, you may be banned for being crazy and dangerous.

Like burning witches in Salem, they must stamp out evil.

If you collect books on the subject and sit down to read a subject that should take minutes to master, it will instead takes years.

Like having relations with women, if they made it as easy as it could be, how would we spend our time?

Late-Bloomer, regarding your question on case size, bullet weight, and powder selection, you can find some information on it here. The relationships are fairly straight forward, and this topic also addresses higher loading densities.

One good way to learn the basics of internal ballistics is to play with software such as QuickLOAD. These demonstrate all the important trends in powder selection, but they will not give you precise results. You will have to defer to the pressure tested loads found in the published loadbooks instead.

All the major reloading manuals cover the basics of safe reloading techniques while providing tested loads.

A final point; Once you have found the "best"
load for a given gun you will lose interest and start with another one.
Good Luck!

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
A final point; Once you have found the "best"
load for a given gun you will lose interest and start with another one.
Good Luck!

And when you have found your "Best Load" in all of your guns, you will have to buy more guns to feed your obsession.

Thank you everyone for your replies!

I've learned alot on this forum over the past several days on all of my posts. I appreciate your experiences & look forward to hanging around and learning from future posts by myself & others.

Late Bloomer ; Buy a couple of good established reloading manuals , work from the low side up wards . I have found more times than not a mid range load is far and above superior to a Hot Load as far as accuracy goes. An example say a .223 round with a projectile weight of 68 grains . Now powder weight of say Hodgdon's BL-C2 between calls for 21.0 grains -23.5 grains . My Bushmaster 20" target prefers 21.8 grains of that load . Prints 5/16" at 100 Yd regularly !. Same Powder for 55 grain projectile calls for 25.5 grains to 27.5 again my particular gun loves 26.2 grains . It puts even junk bulk bullets into 5/16 " groups . the use of Real quality projectiles shrinks it to .277 For 5 shot group . That isn't to shabby for an off the rack semi auto !!!!!. The Key as any of these reloaders on this site will tell you Attention to the details is MOST Important . Start with bulk less expensive bullets work your loads for best results ( Keep a Log ) then step up to Quality components . You'll get there faster and economically !. Every one of these shooters will have an opinion on Cleaning Firing length of time between shots , are you Hunting or target plinking or Benchresting ?. If the weapon will shoot 1 " groups and your hunting YOUR there already !. Unless your Prairie Dog hunting at 300 Yd then that needs to close by half ...

Try here:

Powley Computer

Some really interesting information in the notes...

Andy